I need a friendly engineering co with a big press or similar - can anyone help?

[Grumph]

A big press won't help you. If you can't move it with shock impacts, ie a hammer...it's not moving. Heat cycles, penetrating oils, impacts. If those don't work, the pivot bolt becomes sacrificial.
The only difference between you and an engineer is that the engineer knows when to cut his losses and pull out a grinder.

Those bloody things got used on beaches and rivers, the corollary to that is corrosion - as you're finding. I'd bet the frame has internal corrosion too.

[Imagineering]

Here is how I would go about the Restoration/Rebuild ...

1/ Check the Engine, does it run, If not - do you or your Mates have the Skills to make it run?
If not - abandon the Project now.

2/ Check if Tyres are still available to fit. If not - abandon the Project now.

3/ OK, You have decided to continue with this Project, so ...


As I see it from your Photo and description of the problem so far; The SwingArm is inside the Frame, so you can't get to the SwingArm Bearings/Bushes anyhow. It's a bit difficult to do things via remote from Wellington, but ...

As you have a minimum of Tooling, try this: (might be easier to put the Bike on its side), Centre Punch the Centre of the SwingArm Pivot and drill with a small, say 4mm Drill-Bit. Drill down to a depth that is equal to the thickness of the Frame. Open the Hole up with a successive series of Drill-bits until the SwingArm Pivot is as thin as possible. You may get lucky and have the last Drill-Bit tear out the last vestige of Metal. Flip the Bike over and repeat the process on the other end of the SwingArm Pivot.
If the Pivot is thin enough, you should be able to wrench & twist the Frame away from the Motor/SwingArm Assembly, (might require a Mate or two).

You will now be able to see the SwingArm Bearings, (most likely Bushes), which you can then deal to using the Heat/Penetrating-Oil Cycle. You don't need to heat it up too much, just enough so that you can't touch it, then spray the Penetrating Oil into the seized joint. As the area cools, tap around the area with a small hammer, then do it again, and again ...
Pop down to your local M10 or Bunnings and have a look at their MAPP Gas Torches. Every Workshop should have one ...
If you don't want to buy/borrow a Torch, repeat the process outlined above, but this time drilling down through the SwingArm Bush.

Tedious, yes, but it may save your Butt and get the Project back on track again ...

Good Luck.

[Badcat]

Here is how I would go about the Restoration/Rebuild ...

1/ Check the Engine, does it run, If not - do you or your Mates have the Skills to make it run?
If not - abandon the Project now.

2/ Check if Tyres are still available to fit. If not - abandon the Project now.

3/ OK, You have decided to continue with this Project, so ...


As I see it from your Photo and description of the problem so far; The SwingArm is inside the Frame, so you can't get to the SwingArm Bearings/Bushes anyhow. It's a bit difficult to do things via remote from Wellington, but ...

As you have a minimum of Tooling, try this: (might be easier to put the Bike on its side), Centre Punch the Centre of the SwingArm Pivot and drill with a small, say 4mm Drill-Bit. Drill down to a depth that is equal to the thickness of the Frame. Open the Hole up with a successive series of Drill-bits until the SwingArm Pivot is as thin as possible. You may get lucky and have the last Drill-Bit tear out the last vestige of Metal. Flip the Bike over and repeat the process on the other end of the SwingArm Pivot.
If the Pivot is thin enough, you should be able to wrench & twist the Frame away from the Motor/SwingArm Assembly, (might require a Mate or two).

You will now be able to see the SwingArm Bearings, (most likely Bushes), which you can then deal to using the Heat/Penetrating-Oil Cycle. You don't need to heat it up too much, just enough so that you can't touch it, then spray the Penetrating Oil into the seized joint. As the area cools, tap around the area with a small hammer, then do it again, and again ...
Pop down to your local M10 or Bunnings and have a look at their MAPP Gas Torches. Every Workshop should have one ...
If you don't want to buy/borrow a Torch, repeat the process outlined above, but this time drilling down through the SwingArm Bush.

Tedious, yes, but it may save your Butt and get the Project back on track again ...

Good Luck.

firstly, thanks for actual useful advice.
although it doesn't sound like it, this isnt my first bike restoration.
i have built a number of SR500s amongst others over the year, but dont have access to the workshops and tools that i used to now i'm a separated dad etc.
it's been 10 years since i have done anything serious on a bike.

i will follow your suggestions.
i have new taper head bearings,bushes and eccentrics ready to go and can easily get a pivot shaft in the US.
i have 3 motors, so that's covered.
my plan was to strip the bike - powdercoat the frame and only reinstall parts if perfect.
the jackshaft and 4 sprockets all need some work.
tyres are available - and there is an adapter kit available in the US that allows different sized rear wheels.
i know it seems ridiculous, but the bike belonged to a friend that has since passed away, so the bike WILL be restored.
i dont care if take years. it's been in storage for 5 years with me already.
there is a great thread on ADVrider on these;
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...57448&page=122

so im in - untill it's done.
again thanks, and i'll post my progress here.

ken

[Akzle]

thanks for actual useful advice.

hey kev, every other cunt has given you equally useful advice. if you're too much of a muppet to take it... well, go and pay some 'engineer' to do exactly the same things

[buggerit]

Here is how I would go about the Restoration/Rebuild ...

1/ Check the Engine, does it run, If not - do you or your Mates have the Skills to make it run?
If not - abandon the Project now.

2/ Check if Tyres are still available to fit. If not - abandon the Project now.

3/ OK, You have decided to continue with this Project, so ...


As I see it from your Photo and description of the problem so far; The SwingArm is inside the Frame, so you can't get to the SwingArm Bearings/Bushes anyhow. It's a bit difficult to do things via remote from Wellington, but ...

As you have a minimum of Tooling, try this: (might be easier to put the Bike on its side), Centre Punch the Centre of the SwingArm Pivot and drill with a small, say 4mm Drill-Bit. Drill down to a depth that is equal to the thickness of the Frame. Open the Hole up with a successive series of Drill-bits until the SwingArm Pivot is as thin as possible. You may get lucky and have the last Drill-Bit tear out the last vestige of Metal. Flip the Bike over and repeat the process on the other end of the SwingArm Pivot.
If the Pivot is thin enough, you should be able to wrench & twist the Frame away from the Motor/SwingArm Assembly, (might require a Mate or two).

You will now be able to see the SwingArm Bearings, (most likely Bushes), which you can then deal to using the Heat/Penetrating-Oil Cycle. You don't need to heat it up too much, just enough so that you can't touch it, then spray the Penetrating Oil into the seized joint. As the area cools, tap around the area with a small hammer, then do it again, and again ...
Pop down to your local M10 or Bunnings and have a look at their MAPP Gas Torches. Every Workshop should have one ...
If you don't want to buy/borrow a Torch, repeat the process outlined above, but this time drilling down through the SwingArm Bush.

Tedious, yes, but it may save your Butt and get the Project back on track again ...

Good Luck.

You still have the swingarm attached to the motor, so grab a 1mm cutoff disc for small grinder and cut the shaft each side of
engine mount,
If you cant cut the outer ends of the shaft, drill a pilot on each end of the shaft, then use a drill larger than shaft to remove material so as to end up flush with outside of chassis, then pop the chassis with a bottle jack to let the swingarm drop out .

[Badcat]

A big press won't help you. If you can't move it with shock impacts, ie a hammer...it's not moving. Heat cycles, penetrating oils, impacts. If those don't work, the pivot bolt becomes sacrificial.
The only difference between you and an engineer is that the engineer knows when to cut his losses and pull out a grinder.

Those bloody things got used on beaches and rivers, the corollary to that is corrosion - as you're finding. I'd bet the frame has internal corrosion too.

Yes. It had a little rust.
Once I strip the frame down and get the 65 layers of rattlecan paint off I'll have a good look.
I have second bike too, but that one is absolutely buggered corrosion wise.
The swingarm doesn't even move!
The motor in the second bike is good, and it has a lot of little bits I need, and it's useful for reference, what bit goes where etc so had actually been a big help.

I'm not looking to offend anyone here and appreciate all of your replies.
It's been a long time since I've been on KB too.

[Badcat]

You still have the swingarm attached to the motor, so grab a 1mm cutoff disc for small grinder and cut the shaft each side of
engine mount,
If you cant cut the outer ends of the shaft, drill a pilot on each end of the shaft, then use a drill larger than shaft to remove material so as to end up flush with outside of chassis, then pop the chassis with a bottle jack to let the swingarm drop out .

Yeah. You're right.
The pivot passing through the motor doesn't help.
I think I will judiciously drill out the pivot and cut the shaft at the motor entry and exit.
Thanks again.
Ken

[Badcat]

https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#A35ON9t3mfwae

[Flip]

Most engineering shops will have a press.

If you were out here you could borrrow my wee 40 tonner.

[jonbuoy]

There´s some nasty deep rust wounds on that frame - are you sure its worth the effort?

[unstuck]

Last one I had seized up like that, I just left it soaking in diesel for a week and it came out easier. Would be a prick getting the whole thing in a press I would imagine.

[mhm]

you've certainly had some fair advice so far but i see no actual engineer has put his hand up so i will.i work in otahuhu and would be happy to look over the bike one weekend if you still haven't made any progress or made the decision to cut shaft.cheers

[Badcat]

There´s some nasty deep rust wounds on that frame - are you sure its worth the effort?

That's the spares bike.
I have 2. The frame on the slates bike is absolutely fucked.
The frame I'm using is pretty good.