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Thread: FZR 2kr float height?

  1. #1
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    8th April 2015 - 21:52
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    FZR 2kr float height?

    Hey guys just after some advice on the correct float height for my bike I have pulled the carbs for a clean hoping that it will fix the issue im having with the bike not reving past 10,000rpm when under load so before putting her back together I need to set the floats.
    I have found that the hyosung gt250r uses the exact same bds26 carbs, There float height is specified to be at 17mm would this float height be the same for the bds26's in my FZR

    If this is the case then my floats were way out of spec ive had to bend the tabs a considerable amount just to get 14mm.

    Also when I first pulled the carbs I could see that the floats in carbs 3-4 where heaps lower than carbs 1-2. could this have contributed to my issue?

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    8th April 2015 - 21:52
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    Ok I have found that the right setting is between 17.5mm and 19.5mm this would mean that to reach this setting I would have to adjust the floats 8mm lower on carbs 1-2 than what they originally were set at and carbs 3-4 would need 13mm adjusting as they were roughly 5mm lower than carbs 1-2.

    Is it right that my bike should have even been runnjng with the floats being so far out of spec ?

  3. #3
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    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by aerojake View Post
    Ok I have found that the right setting is between 17.5mm and 19.5mm this would mean that to reach this setting I would have to adjust the floats 8mm lower on carbs 1-2 than what they originally were set at and carbs 3-4 would need 13mm adjusting as they were roughly 5mm lower than carbs 1-2.

    Is it right that my bike should have even been runnjng with the floats being so far out of spec ?
    The 3ln is 10.5mm measured according to the spec I have (with the special tool)
    there is a FZR250 site it ill have the specs and the procedure there.

    Likely where I found this. Who knows it was saved on the Computer anyway.

    2kr jets
    engine idle: 1600rpm
    Jet needle: 4DV1
    needle clip: 3rd clip from bottom
    pilot screw: 3 turns
    main nozzle: N-8
    pilot jet: #15 (#17.5 for 88-89 w/ exup according to a shop who has access to the genuine parts catalogue, my non exup is #15, so I cannot confirm the size for exup)
    main jet: 72.5
    starter jet: GS1 17.5 GS2 0.5
    float height: 17.5 - 19.5 mm
    vacuum: 145mmHG @ 1600rpm
    CO: 3.5 - 4.5% @ 1600rpm


    http://fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?t=2889

    the writing is in Japanese but the pics are all in English.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails chapter04_carb.pdf  



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  4. #4
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    17th July 2005 - 22:28
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    17.5 or so will be measured with carbs on the bike and clear tubes, it would probably translate to somewhere in the 8-10 mark with a ruler.
    Learn how to use the clear tubes
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




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  5. #5
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    8th April 2015 - 21:52
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    yep that post is exactly where I got it from,
    I dont see why they wouldn't just do it by the ruler method would be much easier instead of having to remove carbs adjust float reassemble then measure with the tube over and over untill its right lol

    Anyway so I should be pretty close if i set them at 10mm using the ruler method? this would be roughly where carbs 1 and 2 where at originally but 3-4 we're a fair bit lower maybe 4mm see pic could this be why my bike wont rev past 10,000rpm

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  6. #6
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    17th July 2005 - 22:28
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    TBH I would be googling a bit more if unsure, and try ringing a few fullas at shops.

    I'm more than happy to do my own floats by trial and error without a factory spec, but you have the clear tube spec and that PDF Husaberg supplied, so I'd advise setting to 10.5mm or a tiny bit richer and then measuring with the tube.
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




    Alloy, stainless and Ti polishing.
    Bling your bike out!
    PM me

  7. #7
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    8th April 2015 - 21:52
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    Quote Originally Posted by ducatilover View Post
    TBH I would be googling a bit more if unsure, and try ringing a few fullas at shops.

    I'm more than happy to do my own floats by trial and error without a factory spec, but you have the clear tube spec and that PDF Husaberg supplied, so I'd advise setting to 10.5mm or a tiny bit richer and then measuring with the tube.

    Yeah iv'e been googling the past 4 days lol and the shop fellas cant help me because they said they cant read japanese lol
    so ill give the 10.5mm float height a go and then measure the fuel level (with the tube) i've heard this should read between 9.2mm-10.5mm above the casting line on the float bowl. not sure where the 17.5mm-19.5mm comes into this, could this be the fuel level measured from bottom of carbs possibly?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by aerojake View Post
    Yeah iv'e been googling the past 4 days lol and the shop fellas cant help me because they said they cant read japanese lol
    so ill give the 10.5mm float height a go and then measure the fuel level (with the tube) i've heard this should read between 9.2mm-10.5mm above the casting line on the float bowl. not sure where the 17.5mm-19.5mm comes into this, could this be the fuel level measured from bottom of carbs possibly?
    The measurements are in mm though, doesn't mater if they can't read the blurb. They can look at the pics
    Most of the stuff is the same as the FZR400 whose manual is in ENGERISH though.



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  9. #9
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    17th July 2005 - 22:28
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    It's shown how in the manual, the last pic on page 4-6 should be enough explanation?
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




    Alloy, stainless and Ti polishing.
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  10. #10
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    8th April 2015 - 21:52
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    Ended up finding out that the fuel level needs to be on the bottom line in the pic which is 17.5mm from the top line marked RED using the clear tube method.
    So I reassembled carbs and put them in the bike with a little trouble from them bloody airbox boots!!! checked the fuel level and it was spot on she took for ever to start and had to be running for a while before it'd hold idle properly theres also a bit of lag at 1/4 throttle but once moving theres no lag im betting a idle mixture adjustment would sort out the lag at idle think its @ 1/4 turn out atm.
    I took her for a spin and its now revving up to red line and man what a difference so much more fun I cant believe that a 250 could have so much punch definitely a race orientated bike. Think I pulled 80kmh out of first which is alot better than the 45kmh I was getting before.
    Thanks for your help guys.

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  11. #11
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    17th July 2005 - 22:28
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    Now, build a manometer and sync the carbs
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




    Alloy, stainless and Ti polishing.
    Bling your bike out!
    PM me

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