Newbie Bucket build

[Calvert86]

Thanks guys I will start looking at the OKO and Keihin options


Calvert86

[Askor]

I just sold a 38mm Keihin PWK on trademe, was thinking it would be a laugh to try and fit it to my fxr

[Calvert86]

Well not a very productive night at work but that does mean I've done the wiring loom!

I've decided to keep wires in for dash, gear indication, speedo and fuel as I'm not sure whether I will run it or not so decided was best to leave in place for now!



And here's the wiring diagram with what I've kept highlighted! Might be of use to someone in the future?







Calvert86

[F5 Dave]

Do you first races without the dash. Realise it is only a distraction, and then sell it on TM for important after racing beer funds.

[Calvert86]

Thanks Dave! What about the rev limiter? Is this controlled through the CDI? Could loose half the wires again if I ditch all the dash integration!


Calvert86

[Pumba]

Thanks Dave! What about the rev limiter? Is this controlled through the CDI? Could loose half the wires again if I ditch all the dash integration!


Calvert86

Rev limiter is controlled through the smoke in the CDI (when the smoke gets out it doesn't work anymore). I did exactly what you did the first time I built my bike and had a truck load of wires floating around that never ever got used.

When I rewired it last time I put everything in this stuff http://www.techflex.co.nz/flexo-pet.html . Made it all nice and tidy.

[Henk]

I did close to what you did the first time. I left the dash in minus the house lot of wiring for the gear indicator, all I wanted was the tacho. One day after a crash the dash mounts all broke, so I threw it in the parts box since I never looked at it anyway and it's only remaining function was to add some heavy.
The only real questions that need to be asked re wiring is are you organised enough to charge a battery to run total loss or would you rather go idiot proof and run the ignition off the charging system instead.

[Calvert86]

Rev limiter is controlled through the smoke in the CDI (when the smoke gets out it doesn't work anymore). I did exactly what you did the first time I built my bike and had a truck load of wires floating around that never ever got used.

When I rewired it last time I put everything in this stuff http://www.techflex.co.nz/flexo-pet.html . Made it all nice and tidy.

Thanks Pumba that stuff looks pretty cool! May have a look at getting some of that then! Look better than the green insulation tape I found lying around!


Calvert86

[Calvert86]

I did close to what you did the first time. I left the dash in minus the house lot of wiring for the gear indicator, all I wanted was the tacho. One day after a crash the dash mounts all broke, so I threw it in the parts box since I never looked at it anyway and it's only remaining function was to add some heavy.
The only real questions that need to be asked re wiring is are you organised enough to charge a battery to run total loss or would you rather go idiot proof and run the ignition off the charging system instead.

Thanks Henk,

Pretty sure I could manage to charge a battery once every month...famous last words of course! Can you offer some advice on this?

I will look at removing the wiring for the dash also then!


Calvert86

[Henk]

To be honest the only reason I'm running total loss is that I bought an engine set up that way, I have no idea how much power it gains, every bucket I built myself I kept the charging system instead on the grounds that losing a HP or so was more than made up for by the fact that I might miss a meeting through a brain fart. I have regularly loaned people chargers at the track because the either forgot or had an issue with a battery that was slowly dying.

[F5 Dave]

I've seen many people screw around with failing or forgotten batteries. Looks tedious. Push and ride unless you are supported by someone competent.

[Askor]

Running total loss on a single cylinder bike like the good ol' fxr would only net you a fraction of a horse more power. You may as well lay off a few pies instead. It does however mean you can take the magnets off the flywheel, allowing the engine to spin up faster, increasing torque ATW slightly (or so I understand it).

Don't go total loss, you'll regret it later. Just run a capacitor in place of the battery and be done with it.

[Calvert86]

Thanks guys...yeah I think I'll keep it as is for now! Will probably finish tidying the wires and loose the dash so that should half the loom again!
Ditch the battery will save some weight and should be fool proof for me!!

Don't really feel like stripping magnets off flywheels etc as I don't really understand all that stuff!

I could lay off the pies and beers to help save more weight but there's no fun in that either!


Calvert86

[F5 Dave]

Mmm'. Pies

[Henk]

Mmmm beer......