Dont know if this has been posted before, but someone might find it interesting.
http://www.bbc.com/autos/story/20150...roof-motorbike
Dont know if this has been posted before, but someone might find it interesting.
http://www.bbc.com/autos/story/20150...roof-motorbike
" Rule books are for the Guidance of the Wise, and the Obedience of Fools"
Not sure about the other bikes it is fitted to but it can be turned off on the KTM. On the KTM it is integrated with both the ABS and TC to also be lean sensitive and has several settings. I like it cos I'm only an average rider and hope that it might save my arse in a panic stop situation or potentially stop a high side on crappy roads.
Originally Posted by Albert
As far as I know there is no real diff for the SDR to how it functions. From memory on the Adv there is another TC mode called Off Road that isn't on the SD. Basically it lets the rear wheel spin up to twice the speed of the front wheel before intervention. There is also an ABS setting called Off Road that "disconnects" the ABS and lined braking from the rear wheel but still operates as normal on the front.
Originally Posted by Albert
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon
Say what? Every time I've lost rear traction in a corner releasing the rear brake is exactly what I've done (and what I was taught to do) and I've never felt even the slightest possibility of a high-side.locking a rear can be more benign, provided the rider doesnt release the rear brake while the bike is sliding sideways.
This sounds perfectly logical in theory but, as I've said above, has not been born out by my own experience. It would be nice to know what I'm doing that negates this. Is it perhaps that I'm off the brakes quick enough that the rear wheel realignment is small enough to not be a problem?That is an invitation for the rear tire to regain traction when the bike is not pointed straight, and to pitch the rider off as the bike tries violently to realign itself with the direction of travel.
"Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin (1706-90)
"I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending to much liberty than those attending too small a degree of it." - Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826)
"Motorcycling is not inherently dangerous. It is, however, EXTREMELY unforgiving of inattention, ignorance, incompetence and stupidity!" - Anonymous
"Live to Ride, Ride to Live"
Simple, they fell off more often and hurt / killed themselves and others more often. Basically several members of this forum falll off and or kill themselves each year. So how do I minimise that risk and maximise my fun for the few remaining years I have?
They (me) rode bikes with 70-100hp and still got themselves (me) in the shit when things got surprising (aka panic!) or my ambitions were bigger than my talent. So what I have is a bike that is way better than my ability. Basically I'm only an average rider, aren't we all?
Several months ago I had a couple of young children run across the road in front of me. There was no thinking, I just hit all of the brakes. On most of my previous bikes I'd have locked the front wheel and binned and wiped them and myself across the road. What actually happened is I hurt my nuts on the tank and stopped about 1m in front of them in a ridiculously short distance. Don't fall into the trap of thinking that the electronics are there for normal riding.
The settings are actually really easy to use. I'm only an average rider at best and how I see it is that what these electronics does is let me ride an awesome bike almost everywhere (excluding where Chris Birch takes his).
Originally Posted by Albert
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