Try and avoid Athena sets....and despite the cost the head gsket MUST be OE in my experience. Never struck an aftermarket head gasket for the 400/600 which would last like OE. Clayton at Bob McCleary's for the head gasket.
Low personal B.M.E.P.
Try and avoid Athena sets....and despite the cost the head gsket MUST be OE in my experience. Never struck an aftermarket head gasket for the 400/600 which would last like OE. Clayton at Bob McCleary's for the head gasket.
In the riders seat
It's because he's a lazy cuntOriginally Posted by lazaah
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."
L-Plate Rider
Anyone know how to select bearings based on journal size rather than part number? Seems Yamaha aren't interested in helping out.
[Crank part number is 2222232222] Main crank measurements are 30.482 - 30.490mm and piston/big end measurements are 30.482 - 30.486mm
Low personal B.M.E.P.
If you've got a manual which gives bearing shell thicknesses for each colour, simply go to the THINNEST shell. Even if OE is right on the smallest shaft tolerance, all it'll do is give you about 4/10 of a thou extra clearance. Get yourself some green plastigauge - see Appco in Sydenham for that - and aim for somewhere around 1.6 thou clearance on the mains and 1.8 thou clearance on the big ends.
Those measurements look like a good crank - second hand ? Did it come with shells ? Have you had it linished yet ?
L-Plate Rider
Excellent, means nearly absolutely nothing to me. I will pass the info on to Kai, it is still sitting in his garage, just waiting on me getting the new bearings/shells.
The manual does not have shell thickness indicated, just the colours and how to work out what bearings are needed based on the crank and connecting rod numbers. I only have the crank numbers on hand, so I'll have to get Kai to figure that one out. Are you suggesting ignoring the colour coded selection guide and just getting the thinnest shells, or to use the colour guide to select the correct shells and then purchasing the thinnest of those shells?
The crank is second hand from Rusty, came from an engine which had done a piston (I believe). He gave me a very fair deal. Unfortunately it sounds as those shells/bearings were shagged.
Getting so much closer to having the bike running again. Only been 6 or 7 years. I have a lot of fieldwork based in the backcountry this summer, will be the perfect excuse to spend lots of time on the bike!
Low personal B.M.E.P.
I'm saying ignore the factory code matches and go for the thinnest shells. As i said, it'll gain you only around 4/10 of a thou extra clearance - which is nothing significant. But it does help...Get the crank linished while it's loose, any engine reconditioner can do that, it's just polishing the journals. Worth doing to a used crank to clean up the surfaces.
Kai may still have the colour code info on Yamaha shells - the colour steps thick to thin are the same across all yamaha motors. Can't remember which colour is the thinnest sorry. A good yamaha parts man should be able to tell you.
Forum whore
Agreed, and also get the con rods shot peaned to relieve them.
Low personal B.M.E.P.
Not a race bike Shaun....poor student on a budget.
L-Plate Rider
Pretty much!
Low personal B.M.E.P.
If you're in ChCh this weekend - 9/10/11 October, there's a FZR400 powered chopper at the vintage club swap meet for $450. Motor alone is worth that.
I think it's Hughes Motors from the coast. Over the back middle bay at the swap meet site.
L-Plate Rider
Ahh bummer, probably would of just snapped that up if I had known
Finally managed to get hold of Clayton (been trying for three weeks). He said he wouldn't recommend just ordering the thinnest shells and to order by the colour code :/
His reasoning was that because it is a motorcycle engine (i.e. not a morris minor and spins at > rpm), we can't just go putting oversized bearings in an grind down the crank.
Should I just insist he orders the thinnest shells and not take no for an answer?
Thanks in advance
i'm motarded
Yeah I wouldn't listen to Grumph either, I think he's new at this engine building lark.
Forum whore
Because Grumph makes most every other skilled race mechanic I know look expensive & stupid.
Low personal B.M.E.P.
That's the difference between you and me - Clayton doesn't argue with me....i'll ring him and tell him to pull his head in.Ahh bummer, probably would of just snapped that up if I had known
Finally managed to get hold of Clayton (been trying for three weeks). He said he wouldn't recommend just ordering the thinnest shells and to order by the colour code :/
His reasoning was that because it is a motorcycle engine (i.e. not a morris minor and spins at > rpm), we can't just go putting oversized bearings in an grind down the crank.
Should I just insist he orders the thinnest shells and not take no for an answer?
Thanks in advance
That motor was being sold by someone using Hughes Motors, greymouth, transport. Might be worth a ring to find out if it sold
As well as making them look handsome and polite....
Forum whore
That wasn't for me to say.
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