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Thread: Another can't pressure brakes question.

  1. #1
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    16th March 2013 - 12:22
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    Another can't pressure brakes question.

    Yup, can't do it. FXR. Last race I realized my front brake wasn't releasing nicely. Front wheel would barely turn when it was raised off the ground.
    Took off caliper, pulled out pistons, really dirty. Cleaned pistons and cylinders. Didn't replace seals. Put back in. Can't get any pressure in the lever. I've raised the caliper up high. Do the squeeze open bleed techniques, nothing. Fluid comes out the line, I got air initially, but now nothing but fluid. Pistons aren't moving at all. I think master is ok as I had solid braking during the race. What am I doing wrong here guys? Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
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    FXR, says it all!

  3. #3
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    The trapped air is at the master.

    You need to angle the bars so that the fluid port in the master is higher than the banjo bolt. Then pull the lever ever so slightly a bunch of times. You'll see the air come out.

  4. #4
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    Sorry, i don't quite grasp. I'm not sure what the fluid port is, but I guess I just need to have the banjo bolt being the lowest part of my MC?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew View Post
    . You'll see the air come out.
    Should it come out through the master?

  6. #6
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    Drew, legend. I have a little pressure now so it moves the pistons a little bit. But the pistons just get sucked back in again. Can't get them to stay out and take up the gap between pads and disc

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by omamari View Post
    Drew, legend. I have a little pressure now so it moves the pistons a little bit. But the pistons just get sucked back in again. Can't get them to stay out and take up the gap between pads and disc
    Pull the caliper off, remove the pads

    Pump the pistons out as far as you dare, clean and apply rubber grease.

    the seals are pulling the pistons back in by the sound of it

  8. #8
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    They are, when I reinstalled I did not apply rubber grease. In fact, never heard of it

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by omamari View Post
    Drew, legend. I have a little pressure now so it moves the pistons a little bit. But the pistons just get sucked back in again. Can't get them to stay out and take up the gap between pads and disc
    Yeah, banjo bolt the lowest bit when bleeding.

    Did you take the seals out when you cleaned the caliper? Sounds like you've got them in the wrong way round. The piston doesn't actually slide through the seal when braking. The move through as the pads wear, but most of the time the seal actually rolls to allow the piston to move the pad to the disk.

    They are ever so slightly tapered on the piston face to accommodate this.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew View Post
    The trapped air is at the master.

    You need to angle the bars so that the fluid port in the master is higher than the banjo bolt. Then pull the lever ever so slightly a bunch of times. You'll see the air come out.
    Cruiser style bars were renown for needing this .. the angle of the dangle ... so to speak ..

    Nodrog is on to it ... most likely a bit of grit in the fluid jamming the piston. Often best to pull the pistons out and checking for damage ... and replacing the entire amount of fluid (new seals never hurts [except the wallet] either).
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  11. #11
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    I've got them in correctly. It's feeling better now I've got it on the actual disk. I had a bit of ally spacing them when caliper was raised. It was a bit too thick.

    Interesting about the rolling.

    Thanks heaps guys. Now, seeing as I've got some fresh fluid, KTM time. ..

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by FJRider View Post
    Cruiser style bars were renown for needing this .. the angle of the dangle ... so to speak ..

    Nodrog is on to it ... most likely a bit of grit in the fluid jamming the piston. Often best to pull the pistons out and checking for damage ... and replacing the entire amount of fluid (new seals never hurts [except the wallet] either).
    Pistons were a bit rough, but passable. Yea I was surprised they were so expensive.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by omamari View Post
    Pistons were a bit rough, but passable. Yea I was surprised they were so expensive.
    Outfit down here makes them to order. Cost me $35 for two seals last time I got some.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by omamari View Post
    Pistons were a bit rough, but passable. Yea I was surprised they were so expensive.
    Passable ... but still not working properly .... but only a bucket ... right .. ??

    DIRTY pistons indicate fluid contamination.


    My advice ... change the seals AND fluid.

    Blow out the line of all fluid and clean all parts. Then replace with new fluid ...
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  15. #15
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    Nah they are working an absolute charm now. Polished the pistons, cleaned out cylinders and seals. All new fluid

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