that's good info Andy - but did he tell you WHICH end of the bloody adjustment he goes to ?
Max toe - in or out ? Max positive or negative camber ?
that's good info Andy - but did he tell you WHICH end of the bloody adjustment he goes to ?
Max toe - in or out ? Max positive or negative camber ?
toe in is where you point. front toes together, rear square. or you're handling will be up to shit. also not affected by loading.
adding positive camber will offset the natural negative camber you gain by loading a vehicle.
maxing anything out is a dumb idea.
science, bitches.
Fuck! Did I write all that? Some of it had quite big words in too...
Is it doing it on all four even though you've been rotating them? how long since the last alignment?
Don't you live around a cunty windy road?
Bullshit it isn't affected by loading, we had a fat cunt of a client and it changed a few mm just by having him sit in the vehicle, it's always recommended alignment is done with the normal load the vehicle carries for a reason
van tire thread
at least its not a van aerial thread
If its that sensitive then wont your alignment be out when either than gas tank is completely full or nearly empty...??????????
Sound like that nitrogen in the tyres scam... "oh your tyres will run cooler and last longer"
Funny they go all quiet when you mention the atmosphere is 80% nitrogen and the water vapour that may affect ordinary tyre inflation can be eliminated with decent compressor setup......
I do wonder though where does that magic nitrogen transfer the heat too.... do they instal a mini heat exchanger inside the RUBBER (hastag worlds greatest temp insulator) tyres......???????
Just sayin....
Govt gives you nothing because it creates nothing - Javier Milei
Yeah does the front, rotated front to back.
Was aligned when the tyres went on.
40psi. As I said most days unloaded.
So should the tyres be turned around on the rims or swap left to right?
Yup windy road, impatient driver who's reliving the past imagined glory days racing.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
I'm running the Bridgestone Ecopia R680 on a AWD Hiace ZX. Shop advised me to run 40psi, handling was awful and vague, raised to 44psi (unloaded) and had a noticeable improvement. That said, it will understeer through roundabouts and tighter turns quite easily, so gotta slow it down... it ain't a race car
Being AWD, rotating the tyres from side to side and front to rear in a criss cross every 10k
Originally Posted by Jane Omorogbe from UK MSN on the KTM990SM
Ford Courier Ute, client was probably 150kg, if the camber changes (which it did as soon as he got in) the toe changes
Some vehicle manufacturers specify various fuel levels or adding weights in the vehicle when they done, normally there's a tolerance which probably allows for loading, especially with contractors vehicles it's always best to do them with their normal load
80% nitrogen isn't the same as 100%, the main benefit is constant pressure for longer
How many KM since they went on? I generally only swap front to back or side to side depending on wear, it could be related to your driving and road so yeah turning them over might help
Not really sure of is, it was written on a window sticker but its faded.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
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