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Thread: Removing front rotor bolts?

  1. #1
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    Removing front rotor bolts?

    I'm renewing the front rotor on the bike but can't get the bolts out. I've tried a torque wrench and also a rattle gun but neither of these will budge the bolts.
    Reading the manual, they also suggest replacing the bolts and that the bolts come already coated in a loc tight coating.
    So I'm presuming the originals also had a loc tight coating. Bolts have been in 17 years so well and truely seized.

    So any suggestions on the best way to get these loose without stripping the bolts or completely buggering the wheel.
    I'm only wearing black until they develop something darker




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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawkeye View Post
    I'm renewing the front rotor on the bike but can't get the bolts out. I've tried a torque wrench and also a rattle gun but neither of these will budge the bolts.
    Reading the manual, they also suggest replacing the bolts and that the bolts come already coated in a loc tight coating.
    So I'm presuming the originals also had a loc tight coating. Bolts have been in 17 years so well and truely seized.

    So any suggestions on the best way to get these loose without stripping the bolts or completely buggering the wheel.
    I recently managed to remove some impervious bolts with fossilised loctite by warming them. Gentle application of a heat gun. Said heat softens the loctite. Apparently.

    No idea how you would romove them, though. Might need a gym instructor.
    Manopausal.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by george formby View Post
    I recently managed to remove some impervious bolts with fossilised loctite by warming them. Gentle application of a heat gun. Said heat softens the loctite. Apparently.

    No idea how you would romove them, though. Might need a gym instructor.
    Heat was option 3 but thought I would just check in here first before resorting to blow tourching the wheel.
    I'm only wearing black until they develop something darker




    We came, We listened, And in one voice we answered
    BULLSHIT!! BULLSHIT!! BULLSHIT!! BULLSHIT!! BULLSHIT!!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawkeye View Post
    Heat was option 3 but thought I would just check in here first before resorting to blow tourching the wheel.
    Try a hot air gun first. Another thing I've seen find was use a soldering iron on the bolt head for a while... Just don't touch the bolt after. Heat is the best thing to get loctite off.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawkeye View Post
    Heat was option 3 but thought I would just check in here first before resorting to blow tourching the wheel.
    He's not saying blowtorch the wheel - use a heat gun. Somewhere around 60 -80 deg C is usually enough to expand the alloy enough to make movement possible - well below what will damage the coating on the wheel.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    He's not saying blowtorch the wheel - use a heat gun. Somewhere around 60 -80 deg C is usually enough to expand the alloy enough to make movement possible - well below what will damage the coating on the wheel.
    Hi Grumph. That's what I meant. Got a paint stripper gun so can control the heat
    I'm only wearing black until they develop something darker




    We came, We listened, And in one voice we answered
    BULLSHIT!! BULLSHIT!! BULLSHIT!! BULLSHIT!! BULLSHIT!!

  7. #7
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    I have a gas soldering iron with removable tip and 18volt dewalt impact driver if you want to bring around.
    I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.

  8. #8
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    Turn them to the left.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by nodrog View Post
    Turn them to the left.
    All sound advice.
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    I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mossy1200 View Post
    All sound advice.
    That WD40 advert from 1957 could be misconstrued for present day S & M advice

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawkeye View Post
    ... So any suggestions on the best way to get these loose without stripping the bolts or completely buggering the wheel.
    If heat is applied ... heat the nut. NOT the bolt.

    Heat makes things expand ... make the nut bigger and NOT both.

    As said ... replace parts removed with new. (peace of mind ... and all that)
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  12. #12
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    I have read about freeze in a can. By all accounts the bizz
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by FJRider View Post
    If heat is applied ... heat the nut. NOT the bolt.

    Heat makes things expand ... make the nut bigger and NOT both.
    Not necessary correct FJ.
    Heat also weakens chemical bonds like rust and electrolysis and also weakens Loctite.
    Cycles of heat to cause expansion and contraction help free stuck fasteners.

    PS the rotors are likely held only by bolts.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    Not necessary correct FJ.
    Heat also weakens chemical bonds like rust and electrolysis and also weakens Loctite.
    Cycles of heat to cause expansion and contraction help free stuck fasteners.

    PS the rotors are likely held only by bolts.
    +1

    Heating the bolt to expand everything and they contract as they cool at different rates will destroy the loctites bond.
    I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by mossy1200 View Post
    +1

    Heating the bolt to expand everything and they contract as they cool at different rates will destroy the loctites bond.
    +2

    You could also try heating the whole lot then hitting the bolt with freeze spray; though I expect just normal heat plus rattle gun will suss it right out.
    "A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal

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