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Thread: Loctite gasket product

  1. #1
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    6th June 2011 - 14:55
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    Loctite gasket product

    Last year while at Manfeild, I had need to remove my clutch cover to check out a couple of things inside. When I put it all back together I buggered the gasket when putting in one of the clutch cover screws/bolts. It was just enough to let it leak oil everywhere. After a bit of cursing, the guy in the next stall lent me his Loctite gastket stuff. I cleaned all the oil off the casing, gave it a thin smear of the Loctite product, put it together, left it for 30 min and away I went, good as new. I am about to open up the clutch again and want to get some of the loctite product. Does anyone have any idea which one it could have been. I see Loctite have products, 518, 515 and 510 but none of them jump out at me. Does anyone have a preference for one of these or use it on a regular basis? Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    5th January 2007 - 14:58
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    515 is purple, 518 is red, they both seem to do the same thing. It's probably on or the other. They are both great products.

  3. #3
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    13th June 2010 - 17:47
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    I used to use the purple a lot cos it was the only stuff I ever found to be Methanol resistant...

    Not so important nowadays.

  4. #4
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    I use the Red Master Gasket 518, it keeps oil inside the BSA so it must work ok

    I used to use three bond which works awesome but I just find it horrible sticky shit to use and clean off
    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."


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  5. #5
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    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    Anyone here ever used this stuff?
    http://www.newmantools.com/chemicals/hylomar.htm



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  6. #6
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    Just use selleys all clear.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    Anyone here ever used this stuff?
    http://www.newmantools.com/chemicals/hylomar.htm
    yeah, I think its purposely designed to go on your fingers so you know just what tools, and door handles you used last night.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by nodrog View Post
    yeah, I think its purposely designed to go on your fingers so you know just what tools, and door handles you used last night.
    Anyone not called Gordon used
    http://www.newmantools.com/chemicals/hylomar.htm



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by nodrog View Post
    Just use selleys all clear.
    Fixes anything that shit, coughs colds and scabby holes

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    its like loctite, but blue.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    Can't be arsed following the link but if it's blue Hylomar, all the guys working on brit bombs used to swear by it.
    personally, I don't like it as it dissolves way too easy. from memory it doesn't like synthetic oil.
    Threebond is much better, Selleys all clear is fine for leaky old pom shitters and domestic plumbing.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    Can't be arsed following the link but if it's blue Hylomar, all the guys working on brit bombs used to swear by it.
    personally, I don't like it as it dissolves way too easy. from memory it doesn't like synthetic oil.
    Threebond is much better, Selleys all clear is fine for leaky old pom shitters and domestic plumbing.
    I put my katana engine together with it in about '87, the thing leaked like a sieve.
    I may have just worked out why.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by nodrog View Post
    its like loctite, but blue.
    The reason why I asked is that I can remember a non setting one we used to use from Honda.
    the Honda one was of course ubber expensive. that one seemed to be non setting (other than sticking to nodrog)
    Also the stuff I posted seemed to be a bit higher temp than Loctite.

    ie glowing red hot headers

    Hylomar Universal Blue is the world standard for a non-setting sealant. It is used by many of the worlds automotive manufacturers, major airlines, compressor manufacturers, heavy equipment manufacturers, various OEMs and racing teams. It is a polyester urethane based viscous putty blended with a solvent to make it easy to apply, whether pumped, applied in a tube, or sprayed in an aerosol. It was a revolutionary sealant when it was introduced over 40 years ago, a development product out of Rolls Royce that was used to seal the flanges in gas turbine engines and withstand the high temperatures and intense vibration of a jet engine. A non-setting sealant, it doesn't harden, even at 250oC. It has a unique curtaining action. As flanges sealed with Hylomar Universal Blue are pulled apart, the material stretches, and then breaks cohesively, leaving sealant on both sides. When the flanges return together, the putty reseals, a self-healing mechanism. This makes Universal Blue a particularly effective sealant on close fitting large flanges which are subject to extreme vibration, distortion, or joint movement, because while the seal may break for a microsecond, it reseals and the fluids remain contained.
    If you would like to experiment, try spraying the back of a poster with Hylomar XP Aerosol. It will then adhere to a wall or another surface, yet can be pulled apart like a Post-It Note.

    Hylomar Universal Blue has higher adhesion, and will support more weight than a Post-It Note, but it works on a similar principle. Some customers have used AF to position metal pieces in place during assembly when they need to be re-positioned or adjusted later in the process. The temporary bond would hold the piece in place temporarily.

    As Universal Blue is non-curing, it allows for easy disassembly and repair. Old Universal Blue can be just wiped off with a rag, paper towel (it works better with a solvent such as our Hylomar Gasket Remover) or Hylomar Grand Prix Wipes.

    The application of Universal Blue is straightforward, which makes for simple manufacturing processes. There are no set times to observe, nor cure times to slow up testing or assembly. AF will not clog up nozzles or cure over a shut-down period. In fact, the shelf life of Universal Blue is extremely long. While Hylomar only warrants its product for two years, under proper storage conditions Universal Blue is known to last for very long times and remain effective.We have seen tubes from the 1960s that are still ok (although we do not recommend using or guarantee product this old).

    AF has been noted to work at temperatures up to 350°C on certain applications. We hypothesize that the silica/Hylomar polymer mixture fills the tiny surface imperfections of these joints, and at high temperatures even after the polymer degrades (which starts to occur at temperatures above 250C) the silica and residue remain as a film on the surface, which for close fitting flanges closes off the leak paths.

    For example Hylomar Advanced Formulation has been used to seal exhaust manifolds.



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  14. #14
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  15. #15
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    The red Loctite works well for most stuff.

    I used to use Caterpillar 5H2471. Unbeatable stuff. But they stopped making it years ago and I finally ran out.

    One of the great things about it other than the fact that it worked was the smell...
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

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