Henkel recommend 518 for alloy/aluminium applications, 515 for steel. 518 also comes in a syringe.
Henkel recommend 518 for alloy/aluminium applications, 515 for steel. 518 also comes in a syringe.
Thanks for you responses guys, have just purchased some 518. I started a thread last year about a gearbox problem I was having, not being able to change down from 4th gear and am now about to follow up on an idea that may be causing the problem. Why so long to do this you may ask. Well my brother binned my bike big time on the track just before xmas last year and I have spent all this last year rebuilding it. Am now able to look at the gearbox problem. Will put up some info on what I find on the original thread, as there may be some people out there who have had similar problems and could benefit from what I find out.
Timely reminder to people, that although most gaskit goo(TM) is awesome, please remember that the paper gaskets, (and steel ones) also have a second function, to act as shimming in some situations. ie Honda RFVC rocker covers. Leave it out at your own peril.
As you were.![]()
Shit that brings back a few memories ( I did my apprenticeship at GGH on Cat tractors) That rubbery orange gasket poo in the tin with the brush in the lid? You could get high as a kite sniffing that, and it was really good sealant as well. Then I was introduced to RTV silicone with the salt'n'vinegar smell (odd way to rate sealant, by the smell, but...)
it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
(PostalDave on ADVrider)
Blue Haylomar has been around for ages. Its a solvent based gasket goo. Works very well with oil but not fuel resistant. It always stays soft and sticky.
Locktight 518 is a hard anerobic gasket eliminator for ridgid joints. Sets like hard plastic. Really needs clean joints to work best.
Locktight 5970 is a soft low bond strength silicon for flexable joints. Sets like rubber. Will work even if the surfaces are oily.
There is no right jointing product and no wrong one. Some are slightly better in some applications than others but all work well enough.
Just another leather clad Tinkerbell.
The Wanker on the Fucking Harley is going for a ride!
518/515 has been my go to for years. The barrell and head on my Benelli are sealed with 518 and works great. Easy to clean up too and the excess that may get squeezed inside doesn't go all stringy, rather just melts away.
I mentioned vegetables once, but I think I got away with it...........
Thanks for all the info. "Flip", if 518 sets like hard plastic, given that I havnt taken the clutch housing cover off since I used what I presume was 518 last year, am I likely to have difficulty seperating the 2 surfaces. Both are reasonably thin section aluminium so I guess there is a chance that I may end up breaking the cover, or worse, the engineside of the casing. Would applying some heat soften the sealant?
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