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Thread: Decent annodisers in Wellington?

  1. #1
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    Decent annodisers in Wellington?

    Gents.

    I am adapting my Guzzi V11 Sport square head valve covers to the old school round fin valve covers from a V7 (by the use of both gasket types and an adaptor plate) -and I mean a proper V7 not the new learner/faux retro/twee putt-putt Guzzi make these days.

    To really set the look off, the idea of anodizing the head covers came to me.

    Given my experience with the local chrome plater here in Wellington/Lower Hutt (terrible), I am concerned about getting a duff job done.
    Who is capable of doing a good job anodising? I would be willing to pay a bit more if they also did their own prepwork as a wirebrush/dremel tool won't quite get into all the tiny crevices.

    It is a bit silly having to post this question on this forum, but there seems to be a gamut of mediocre service providers out there - and making the job right afterwards is going to be a right pain.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by smmudd83_1999 View Post
    Gents.

    I am adapting my Guzzi V11 Sport square head valve covers to the old school round fin valve covers from a V7 (by the use of both gasket types and an adaptor plate) -and I mean a proper V7 not the new learner/faux retro/twee putt-putt Guzzi make these days.

    To really set the look off, the idea of anodizing the head covers came to me.

    Given my experience with the local chrome plater here in Wellington/Lower Hutt (terrible), I am concerned about getting a duff job done.
    Who is capable of doing a good job anodising? I would be willing to pay a bit more if they also did their own prepwork as a wirebrush/dremel tool won't quite get into all the tiny crevices.

    It is a bit silly having to post this question on this forum, but there seems to be a gamut of mediocre service providers out there - and making the job right afterwards is going to be a right pain.
    anodizing isn't like electroplating that once buffed smooth the new layer is all the same colour. if you cleaned surface has different shades of alloy, as a lot of used surfaces do, your top coat will be similar.

  3. #3
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    Anodising cast pieces - particularly Italian cast pieces - is not a good idea as the colour can and will vary widely.
    Paint or powder is the only answer.

  4. #4
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    "anodizing isn't like electroplating that once buffed smooth the new layer is all the same colour. if you cleaned surface has different shades of alloy, as a lot of used surfaces do, your top coat will be similar."

    So if I were to sit patiently, polish away to see how it looks underneath and satisfied myself of a uniform shade, this will improve the chances of a good job. I can do that.

    and

    "Anodising cast pieces - particularly Italian cast pieces - is not a good idea as the colour can and will vary widely.
    Paint or powder is the only answer."

    Yes. Similar to the wisdom above, so I must be cautious as the advice seems to follow a theme here. I can understand different grades of alu coming out with different shades with the same colour application - if I were to anodise, say, my wheels and valve covers they probably won't match. I would be relatively surprised (ish) with the irregularity just in the cast valve covers. Being a cast alu I would have thought it to be a fairly impure grade of harder alu (somewhere in the 6/7000 series) which takes the anodising process quite well. But how consistent is it? Hmmm....

    Maybe I need to re-think what I'm trying to achieve.
    BTW, useful advice on KB-er? I am shocked.

  5. #5
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    Have a talk to an anodising place before you go balls deep and get them ready for anodising.

    Most places will tell you cast alloy comes out shit regardless of how much prep you do.

    Some places will do a dark grey or a black, but it generally comes out in a matt finish and looks like arse.

  6. #6
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    When Interlock Industries of Miramar were still Interlock Industries, they had an anodising plant in Petone. I think it may have been in Nelson Street but was definitely between The Esplanade and Jackson. If they're still there probably a better bet than the munters in Naenae.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Madness View Post
    When Interlock Industries of Miramar were still Interlock Industries, they had an anodising plant in Petone. I think it may have been in Nelson Street but was definitely between The Esplanade and Jackson. If they're still there probably a better bet than the munters in Naenae.
    The Aluminium Extrusion Co. (anodising branch) 20 Victoria St Petone.

    Not bad service, but be nice, they only do outside work when it suits their schedule.

    Be warned, (again) colour depends a lot on the alloy. If it was anodised originally it'll turn out similar. If not it won't I guess.

    They won't prep it, the finish you give them is what you'll see in the finished product. So make yourself responsible for the finish you expect.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by smmudd83_1999 View Post
    "anodizing isn't like electroplating that once buffed smooth the new layer is all the same colour. if you cleaned surface has different shades of alloy, as a lot of used surfaces do, your top coat will be similar."

    So if I were to sit patiently, polish away to see how it looks underneath and satisfied myself of a uniform shade, this will improve the chances of a good job. I can do that.

    and

    "Anodising cast pieces - particularly Italian cast pieces - is not a good idea as the colour can and will vary widely.
    Paint or powder is the only answer."

    Yes. Similar to the wisdom above, so I must be cautious as the advice seems to follow a theme here. I can understand different grades of alu coming out with different shades with the same colour application - if I were to anodise, say, my wheels and valve covers they probably won't match. I would be relatively surprised (ish) with the irregularity just in the cast valve covers. Being a cast alu I would have thought it to be a fairly impure grade of harder alu (somewhere in the 6/7000 series) which takes the anodising process quite well. But how consistent is it? Hmmm....

    Maybe I need to re-think what I'm trying to achieve.
    BTW, useful advice on KB-er? I am shocked.
    Italian cast alloy of that period follows no number series - it depends on how much grappa Luigi had for lunch. i wouldn't even count on one side being the same as the other...Yes, looks like arse - a PATCHY arse...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by nodrog View Post
    Some places will do a dark grey or a black, but it generally comes out in a matt finish and looks like arse.
    when I went for my anal bleaching they didn't have those two colours available, I guess the shade I picked is so last year....

  10. #10
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    Just had a swingarm done by the guys in tokoroa. They're pretty knowledgeable and happy to do little jobs like this; shipping is cheap. Mine didn't turn out too flash since there was some paint and other shit still embedded in the metal. That aside, a dark color (bronze in my case) is a good choice, my casting shows some color variation if you look closely.
    "A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellywrestler View Post
    when I went for my anal bleaching they didn't have those two colours available, I guess the shade I picked is so last year....
    I personally prefer a glossy arse.


    As above I'd advise against unless it is a nice cnc piece crafted out of a block of alloy. What colour are you after? There are some good paints on the market. Also I have seen a almost candy look done in the baking process that was impressive and should withstand head temps.

  12. #12
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    Goodness. The sheer number of nay-sayers here is definitely swaying me away from anodising. I don't want a blotchy arse either.

    My understanding of the powdercoat process was they couldn't do a gloss finish - but maybe I'm just stuck in the past as a Google session proves otherwise and the tech to do a gloss powdercoat seems to have been around for a while. So maybe that would just be easier.

    As for the colour - I want the heads to be a feature (as they are on any Guzzi) - but in this case, as I'm converting to the old round head style covers I want them to be pronounced...so I was thinking a dark goldey bronzey brassey sort of colour,... think like a mucky browny-yellow dark urine colour in candy or gloss. Yummy description, eh? Imagine if I got a blotchy arse in that colour!
    Dulux & Resene seem to have the range covered I think I'll pay a visit to someone to see the differences between candy or gloss in the flesh.

    ta muchly, chaps.

  13. #13
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    In my very limited experience - anodizing used pieces of motorcycle is a bit of a lottery. Especially cast stuff.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by smmudd83_1999 View Post
    Goodness. The sheer number of nay-sayers here is definitely swaying me away from anodising. I don't want a blotchy arse either.

    My understanding of the powdercoat process was they couldn't do a gloss finish - but maybe I'm just stuck in the past as a Google session proves otherwise and the tech to do a gloss powdercoat seems to have been around for a while. So maybe that would just be easier.

    .
    glossy, have you considered HPC coatings?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by smmudd83_1999 View Post
    My understanding of the powdercoat process was they couldn't do a gloss finish -
    Nope. A guy used to make spun alloy plant-pots up Wingate way, powdercoated them on site with an amazing range of translucent, high gloss powders. Long gone unfortunately.

    Go see Bert, up in Montgomery cres, Upper Hutt and talk to him about what he can get his hands on from the suppliers to do likewise.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

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