Triple clamps explained by Richard Stanboli of Attack Performance

**Shaun Harris** · 16th September 2015, 19:17

http://www.onthethrottle.com/howto/t...-with-the-mic/

Enjoy

**nzspokes** · 16th September 2015, 19:53

Originally Posted by Moto-Dynamix

http://www.onthethrottle.com/howto/t...-with-the-mic/

Enjoy

Thanks Shaun, enjoyed that.

**pritch** · 22nd September 2015, 13:14

Thanks for that. I'd seen reference to that in books but you get a much better look when it's done in a video like that.

**Shaun Harris** · 22nd September 2015, 13:23

Originally Posted by pritch

Thanks for that. I'd seen reference to that in books but you get a much better look when it's done in a video like that.

For sure Buddy, all but idiot proofe

**malcy25** · 22nd September 2015, 22:07

The two weirdest things I have seen in that space are
1) late 70's Bimotas with negative offset - the fork centres are BEHIND the stem (see photo)

2) Kenny Roberts about 81/82 had some yokes machined up (on purpose) for one of his 500's where the forks were not parallel to the stem!

Understanding stuff like this can make a massive difefrence when you are mixing and matching, or changing wheel size. Ie 18 to 17 on older bikes etc.

Bikes with 18's usually run a lot more offset (circa 50mm) while 17's are more 30-40 (or less). So when you have an 18 inch bike and you got to 17's the trail dramatically reduces (it becomes twitchy) and the best way to recover it flatter offset.

Also, the total offset will be impacted by position of the axle relative to the centreline of the fork leg....

**codgyoleracer** · 6th October 2015, 14:35

Originally Posted by malcy25

The two weirdest things I have seen in that space are
1) late 70's Bimotas with negative offset - the fork centres are BEHIND the stem (see photo)

2) Kenny Roberts about 81/82 had some yokes machined up (on purpose) for one of his 500's where the forks were not parallel to the stem!

Understanding stuff like this can make a massive difefrence when you are mixing and matching, or changing wheel size. Ie 18 to 17 on older bikes etc.

Bikes with 18's usually run a lot more offset (circa 50mm) while 17's are more 30-40 (or less). So when you have an 18 inch bike and you got to 17's the trail dramatically reduces (it becomes twitchy) and the best way to recover it flatter offset.

Also, the total offset will be impacted by position of the axle relative to the centreline of the fork leg....

Yep agree, offset (or trail adjustment) for me often gave the best bang for buck, when chasing feel. It was also handy to adjust between dry and wet conditions.