Engine oil

[Moise]

Shell put Rotella through the JASO test because so many people were using it in bikes....if other oil companies bothered to do it too they might pass as well. Rimula is not the same as Rotella, but there is certainly nothing wrong with it.

Some of the Penrite oils meet MA.

[pete-blen]

I used Mobil 2000 in my bikes for years... never had any issues,
clutches/gearboxes worked just fine..
Biggest thing is to do the oil/filter changes not leave the oil
in there for ever..

Use Motul 5100 now...





..

[MarkH]

I've used Mobil Delvac 1 5w40 in a previous bike, nothing wrong with that IMO.
I do always stick to the preferred weight (2nd number, the one after the winter rating) and I always go with a full synthetic for better maintenance of viscosity over the temperature range.

The big problem with a thread on oil is the woefully misinformed that try to tell you that 5w40 is 5 weight when cold and 40 weight when at operating temperature, or other equally ridiculous bullshit.
Here is one page of fairly good info for those that want to improve their understanding on motor oil: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

[Pornstar]

Rotella T6 is a full synthetic, 5W-40 oil that meets JASO MA. Good luck finding a Rimula oil like that in NZ.

You can get Delo 400 from the Warehouse for about $30 per 5 litres when it's on special.

there is a syn and non syn rotella, the non syn is the comparable one

[Moise]

there is a syn and non syn rotella, the non syn is the comparable one

Yeah, there's a whole family of Rotella oils. I wish we could get T6 here though.

[Flip]

I have been using mixed fleet lubes for ages myself in all kinds of vehicles.

[Flip]

I've used Mobil Delvac 1 5w40 in a previous bike, nothing wrong with that IMO.
I do always stick to the preferred weight (2nd number, the one after the winter rating) and I always go with a full synthetic for better maintenance of viscosity over the temperature range.

The big problem with a thread on oil is the woefully misinformed that try to tell you that 5w40 is 5 weight when cold and 40 weight when at operating temperature, or other equally ridiculous bullshit.
Here is one page of fairly good info for those that want to improve their understanding on motor oil: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

Can I quote your reference "An oil sold as 10w-40 is no thicker than 10 weight oil under Winter (10w) conditions, meaning below freezing. The 40 means it is no thinner than 40 weight oil at 212° Fahrenheit. So, the first number tells us the performance of the oil at or below the temperature of freezing water, and the second number tells us the performance at the temperature of boiling water."

What part of this don't you understand?

[MarkH]

Can I quote your reference "An oil sold as 10w-40 is no thicker than 10 weight oil under Winter (10w) conditions, meaning below freezing. The 40 means it is no thinner than 40 weight oil at 212° Fahrenheit. So, the first number tells us the performance of the oil at or below the temperature of freezing water, and the second number tells us the performance at the temperature of boiling water."

What part of this don't you understand?

Well, I'll take a guess at what part you don't understand!
I'm guessing that you don't understand that this oil is thicker at colder temperatures and thinner at 212°F and that what you quoted doesn't say otherwise.
I keep reading posts in oil threads that explicitly contain that misconception.
10w oil at well below freezing becomes quite thick, thicker (greater viscosity) than what 40w oil is at 212°F, the multigrade oil basically can be thick like really cold 10w oil or thin like hot 40w oil.

[Moise]

Well, I'll take a guess at what part you don't understand!
I'm guessing that you don't understand that this oil is thicker at colder temperatures and thinner at 212°F and that what you quoted doesn't say otherwise.
I keep reading posts in oil threads that explicitly contain that misconception.
10w oil at well below freezing becomes quite thick, thicker (greater viscosity) than what 40w oil is at 212°F, the multigrade oil basically can be thick like really cold 10w oil or thin like hot 40w oil.

Sorry mate, but you haven't quite got it. I'd suggest that you Google "oil weight" and do a little more reading.

Any oil gets thinner with increasing temperature, whether or not it's multigrade. That's not the issue.

[Flip]

Well, I'll take a guess at what part you don't understand!
I'm guessing that you don't understand that this oil is thicker at colder temperatures and thinner at 212°F and that what you quoted doesn't say otherwise.
I keep reading posts in oil threads that explicitly contain that misconception.
10w oil at well below freezing becomes quite thick, thicker (greater viscosity) than what 40w oil is at 212°F, the multigrade oil basically can be thick like really cold 10w oil or thin like hot 40w oil.

I will try this again.......

The multi grade designation is a way to describe, in a non technical manner, the viscosity performance of a blended muiltgrade oil that has a flatter viscosity curve than a straight single mono grade oil.

The first number is its cold viscosity, the second is its hot viscosity. It describes this viscosity relative to a mono grade lubricantnts at two points on the graph.

So a 20W40 oil has a viscosity like a 20 weight oil cold and a viscosity like a 40 weight oil when hot. This is a desireable feature as a thinner oil flows easier, warms up better and lubricates better when cold. A thick oil lubricates better when very hot.

I don't think anybody could explain this any simplier, and when all is said and done it does not really matter. There is always going to be some dumb horse thats going to die of thurst.

Back to the OP, I usually run Valvolene 20W40 diesel oil in almost all my vehicles. I wait until I see it on special at supercheap and grab a 10 litre pack. Being a diesel oil it has a full strong adative package (full zinc) and promotes engine cleanleness and low friction. If I had a vehicle that needed to be compatable with a wet clutch I would look an oil that meets the JASO test.

[Paul in NZ]

Email Penrite and ask - they are really good at getting back to you with a recommendation. I use the diesel 20-50 in the Triumph as the old HPR30 I used to use got updated with a friction modifier and I got some minor clutch slip. (1970 triumph engine oil shared with primary oil)

No issues at all.... Heartily recommend the product - used it for years in the Moto Guzzi as well...

[Kickaha]

I use the diesel 20-50 in the Triumph as the old HPR30 I used to use got updated with a friction modifier and I got some minor clutch slip. (1970 triumph engine oil shared with primary oil)

No issues at all.... Heartily recommend the product - used it for years in the Moto Guzzi as well...

Yeah I use their Diesel HPR 20-60, says it can be used instead of a straight 30 or 20-50

[Paul in NZ]

Yeah I use their Diesel HPR 20-60, says it can be used instead of a straight 30 or 20-50

Thats the stuff....

Its done quite well, my only gripe is the cost but its still the cheapest thing you can put in an engine

[flashg]

There you go guys, oil made for motorcycles. I've used it for years and buy it from Repco when they have a 25% off sale. Just a note for those that worry about slipping clutches, I have no problems as it's made for wet clutch engines and would work well in 2t gearboxes. Also gives me a nice smooth change ( smoother than some oils I used in the past)

[Scubbo]

I just switched from that castrol oil to some BO oil full synthetic off trademe/motoxparts? store --- $64 for 4 litres, full synthetic, the DRZ has never felt so smooth changing gears / revving to redline its quite amazing the difference that BO oil has made and it's so CHEAP

(this stuff http://www.motoxparts.co.nz/p/4-stro...s-bo-motor-oil )