Brake rotor fasteners?

[Akzle]

socket screws, cap screws, everyones got a fucking different name

ill drop by anzor again, he was very reluctant because braking components, same feeling for me..

cap screws have an inhex (allen) head on them...

[husaberg]

Not sure if you read my original post at all? 2 are missing, 2 fucked themselves so i had to easy out them and the rest look like shit and are ready to die and not come out... theyre not going back in. The chances of getting stock fasteners in NZ for an 89 bike is literately zero and if they are available are probably like 10 dollars a piece hence my post here

I certainly did, did you read all of my reply? There was some stuff in caps
When i was refering to stock it was in reference to materials rather than OE equipment.

[bogan]

There is a small shoulder on them its about 4mm (so around the disk width)

I have acquired lovely brembo serie oro discs so not wanting to put rubbish old bolts on them

That shoulder might be reasonably important to keep an even pressure on the disc hole face. On the one hand it'll almost certainly be fine with just a normal bolt, but on the other hand it is a pretty important braking component.

[husaberg]

http://www.bikerbargains.co.nz/index...roducts_id=679
likely the yam is 6 bolts lol (murphy)
unfortunately the off roaders generally have thinner disks.
http://www.torpedo7.co.nz/shop/moto/nuts---bolts

[malcy25]

Not sure if you read my original post at all? 2 are missing, 2 fucked themselves so i had to easy out them and the rest look like shit and are ready to die and not come out... theyre not going back in. The chances of getting stock fasteners in NZ for an 89 bike is literately zero and if they are available are probably like 10 dollars a piece hence my post here

ordered some OEM ones for an old Yamaha not that long ago on they arrived no issue. can't remember what I paid but try places like www.boats.net

Edit: $1.38 each US, plus postage.

[malcy25]

That shoulder might be reasonably important to keep an even pressure on the disc hole face. On the one hand it'll almost certainly be fine with just a normal bolt, but on the other hand it is a pretty important braking component.

Need to remember that the brake force is NOT being carried on the "shear" strength of the bolt (ie chopping through the section). Rather, it is the clamped interface of the two faces forced together by the torque setting of the bolt. The bolt strength (and what it is screwed into) will dictate that torque. R1's for example (and other Yamaha's I quickly looked at ) are only about 13ft/lb.

[J.A.W.]

Need to remember that the brake force is NOT being carried on the "shear" strength of the bolt (ie chopping through the section). Rather, it is the clamped interface of the two faces forced together by the torque setting of the bolt. The bolt strength (and what it is screwed into) will dictate that torque. R1's for example (and other Yamaha's I quickly looked at ) are only about 13ft/lb.

Yeah, oddly enough,
I had the same task to do recently, & the Yamaha discs are fastened by those fancy allen-head mushroom types with blue thread compound.
Inevitably a couple of 'em were a bit chewed & wanted replacement.. but I had serviceable spares from previous doings - which did the job.

But, as noted, they are a basic ISO metric thread size, so any equivalent bolt shop replacement will likely do, unless originality is an issue..

[neels]

Can buy the the OEM ones from partzilla.com for the price quoted above of $1.38US each, or give a Yamaha dealer a call and check the price for p/n 90109-08718-00, I've found for most of the yammy parts I've bought the price has been pretty similar when they're available ex Australia.

It's probably nice if the brake rotor bolts are the right thing, in the interests of stopping when you want to and all.......

[bogan]

Need to remember that the brake force is NOT being carried on the "shear" strength of the bolt (ie chopping through the section). Rather, it is the clamped interface of the two faces forced together by the torque setting of the bolt. The bolt strength (and what it is screwed into) will dictate that torque. R1's for example (and other Yamaha's I quickly looked at ) are only about 13ft/lb.

That's a very good point. That'll be 13 with thread lube?

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

[Moise]

I just bought 12 for the R1 from Partzilla in the US. Less than NZ $50 including freight.

[TLDV8]

There is a small shoulder on them its about 4mm (so around the disk width)

I have acquired lovely brembo serie oro discs so not wanting to put rubbish old bolts on them

It might depend on the method used to centre the rotor on the wheel hub.

Some are centred by the raised spigot on the hub that corresponds to the ID of the carrier centre.

Some use a shouldered fastener that often has a M8 thread combined with a 10mm OD shoulder, that shoulder can in some cases fit into a 10 mm counter bore in the wheel hub.

If the Yamaha 'bolt has a shoulder than only engages the carrier there is the possibility that using a non shouldered fastener of say 8 mm would leave a 2mm clearance in the carrier holes (If there was a hole in the rotor to suit that OEM shoulder)

If that was the case the fastener could end up off centre (radially) to the holes and mark the new carrier if a standard industrial cap screw was used, it might even have slightly less clamping force due to reduced surface area (carrier to fastener area under the head)
Less clamping force could then reduce the clamping friction of the carrier to the wheel hub flange.

Or not but just saying.,.