How to total loss an FZR

**kiwi cowboy** · 7th December 2015, 21:17

Posing this in here as total loss running is more racing than engine forum.

I have a 87-88 fzr 750 genesis and want to go total loss running to save weight and let motor spin up quicker.

I was talking to a fella on weekend and looked at his bike (fzr1000) and he said to take the alternator off and put a bolt in the centre of the shaft the drive spline fits in ( theres a thread further in past the spline) to stop oil coming out the hole which would lower pressure from elsewhere.
Then make a plate up to bolt on where the alternator bolts on to cover.

I took the alternator off my spare engine to look at it and it has an exposed bearing holding the shaft and when I hooked up a battery to the starter a shit load of oil came out the centre hole so definatly needs the bolt to seal that off but my worry is.-- oil I think would seep out the spline oiling it as it runs and then runs back into the crankcase through o hole in the bottom but does this oil dribble around the bearing oiling it?.

My worry is (which the guy that's done this) by sealing the centre hole off am I then making the bearing run dry which would not be good or does it get oiled from the back somewhere.

Has anyone done this before?.

Cheers.

**husaberg** · 7th December 2015, 21:26

Originally Posted by kiwi cowboy

Posing this in here as total loss running is more racing than engine forum.

I have a 87-88 fzr 750 genesis and want to go total loss running to save weight and let motor spin up quicker.

I was talking to a fella on weekend and looked at his bike (fzr1000) and he said to take the alternator off and put a bolt in the centre of the shaft the drive spline fits in ( theres a thread further in past the spline) to stop oil coming out the hole which would lower pressure from elsewhere.
Then make a plate up to bolt on where the alternator bolts on to cover.

I took the alternator off my spare engine to look at it and it has an exposed bearing holding the shaft and when I hooked up a battery to the starter a shit load of oil came out the centre hole so definatly needs the bolt to seal that off but my worry is.-- oil I think would seep out the spline oiling it as it runs and then runs back into the crankcase through o hole in the bottom but does this oil dribble around the bearing oiling it?.

My worry is (which the guy that's done this) by sealing the centre hole off am I then making the bearing run dry which would not be good or does it get oiled from the back somewhere.

Has anyone done this before?.

Cheers.

There is a thread in England about doing a FZR600 prince/lord of darkness or something.

**husaberg** · 7th December 2015, 21:33

Originally Posted by kiwi cowboy

Posing this in here as total loss running is more racing than engine forum.

I have a 87-88 fzr 750 genesis and want to go total loss running to save weight and let motor spin up quicker.

I was talking to a fella on weekend and looked at his bike (fzr1000) and he said to take the alternator off and put a bolt in the centre of the shaft the drive spline fits in ( theres a thread further in past the spline) to stop oil coming out the hole which would lower pressure from elsewhere.
Then make a plate up to bolt on where the alternator bolts on to cover.

I took the alternator off my spare engine to look at it and it has an exposed bearing holding the shaft and when I hooked up a battery to the starter a shit load of oil came out the centre hole so definatly needs the bolt to seal that off but my worry is.-- oil I think would seep out the spline oiling it as it runs and then runs back into the crankcase through o hole in the bottom but does this oil dribble around the bearing oiling it?.

My worry is (which the guy that's done this) by sealing the centre hole off am I then making the bearing run dry which would not be good or does it get oiled from the back somewhere.

Has anyone done this before?.

Cheers.

There is a thread in England about doing a FZR600 Army of darkness .
I just tried to google it the site is off line sorry.

Googling images this might help

Click image for larger version.

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http://www.fzrarchives.com/images/fzr400/560/

**kiwi cowboy** · 7th December 2015, 21:36

Originally Posted by husaberg

There is a thread in England about doing a FZR600 Army of darkness .
I just tried to google it the site is off line sorry

No worries mate.
The 600 is different to the 750/1000s

**husaberg** · 7th December 2015, 21:41

Originally Posted by kiwi cowboy

No worries mate.
The 600 is different to the 750/1000s

Yes I realise that, but in basic layout Yamaha is not that inventive. Have another look at the post I added a few bits.
Pretty sure this is how the race kit worked as well on the little uns.
Maybe try a search on the official Yamaha Race kit for the FZR?
Or try BDK
http://www.bdkraceeng.co.uk/
He was around back when they were in fashion.
Come to think about it wasn't the alternator piggy back on the larger ones?

**kiwi cowboy** · 7th December 2015, 21:58

Originally Posted by husaberg

Yes I realise that, but in basic layout Yamaha is not that inventive. Have another look at the post I added a few bits.
Pretty sure this is how the race kit worked as well on the little uns.
Maybe try a search on the official Yamaha Race kit for the FZR?
Or try BDK
http://www.bdkraceeng.co.uk/
He was around back when they were in fashion.
Come to think about it wasn't the alternator piggy back on the larger ones?

The mod in those photos is on the crank but the alternator on the bigger bikes is on top of the case behind the cylinders driven off the same internal chain as the starter is connected to.

**husaberg** · 7th December 2015, 22:11

Originally Posted by kiwi cowboy

The mod in those photos is on the crank but the alternator on the bigger bikes is on top of the case behind the cylinders driven off the same internal chain as the starter is connected to.

Ie piggy back last line of what you quoted........
but its the sealing off that's the issue yes?

**kiwi cowboy** · 7th December 2015, 22:17

Originally Posted by husaberg

Ie piggy back last line of what you quoted........
but its the sealing off that's the issue yes?

Yer sorry it is piggy back
.
Yes its the sealing the hole with the bolt resulting in the bearing running dry.

Its weather the bearing has another way of getting oiled from behind it of weather the oil that I imagine would seep out past the spline of the shaft as it spins oil the bearing somehow.

**husaberg** · 7th December 2015, 22:21

Originally Posted by kiwi cowboy

Yer sorry it is piggy back
.
Yes its the sealing the hole with the bolt resulting in the bearing running dry.

Its weather the bearing has another way of getting oiled from behind it of weather the oil that I imagine would seep out past the spline of the shaft as it spins oil the bearing somehow.

ASk Grumph
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/me...p/29978-Grumph
and drop the BDK a line, if you ask nicely he might even tell you how to mod the CDi curve as that's what he used to do for all sorts of bikes.

**Grumph** · 8th December 2015, 05:23

Just do what the guy told you. The bearing you see when you remove the alternator will be lubed by oil mist in the cavity quite satisfactorily.
The big job is actually making up a cover which will seal properly as there is a shitload of oil floating around in there....Last one I did I seem to remember making it plug in like the alternator end with an O ring too.

**kiwi cowboy** · 9th December 2015, 20:51

Originally Posted by Grumph

Just do what the guy told you. The bearing you see when you remove the alternator will be lubed by oil mist in the cavity quite satisfactorily.
The big job is actually making up a cover which will seal properly as there is a shitload of oil floating around in there....Last one I did I seem to remember making it plug in like the alternator end with an O ring too.

Ok thanks Grump,

The oil that's in there comes out of the centre of the shaft that I am told needs a bolt with washer put in there to stop oil coming out.

What im thinking of doing is I have pulled the alternator to pieces and the winding out of the first piece of casing and theres a bearing in that bit with a holding plate.

My plan is to take the bearing out and get a plug (im told I can get that are used in gear boxes) with seals around them that will fit in where the bearing was with the holding plate behind the plug to hold it in then bolt that bit back on the motor witch has the oring on it.

Thoughts?.

**Grumph** · 10th December 2015, 05:29

Originally Posted by kiwi cowboy

Ok thanks Grump,

The oil that's in there comes out of the centre of the shaft that I am told needs a bolt with washer put in there to stop oil coming out.

What im thinking of doing is I have pulled the alternator to pieces and the winding out of the first piece of casing and theres a bearing in that bit with a holding plate.

My plan is to take the bearing out and get a plug (im told I can get that are used in gear boxes) with seals around them that will fit in where the bearing was with the holding plate behind the plug to hold it in then bolt that bit back on the motor witch has the oring on it.

Thoughts?.

i wouldn't have pulled the alternator to pieces as it has a value to someone....It's been done the way you were told by many many people around the world without trouble.
You should probably have gone Kawasaki instead of a yamaha as the piggyback alternators on them are dry at the joint and don't even need a cover....

**eldog** · 10th December 2015, 06:17

Originally Posted by Grumph

i wouldn't have pulled the alternator to pieces as it has a value to someone....It's been done the way you were told by many many people around the world without trouble.
You should probably have gone Kawasaki instead of a yamaha as the piggyback alternators on them are dry at the joint and don't even need a cover....

Ya just cant beat experience, that's why I listen to my elders, they have been there done that.

**kiwi cowboy** · 10th December 2015, 11:07

Originally Posted by Grumph

i wouldn't have pulled the alternator to pieces as it has a value to someone....It's been done the way you were told by many many people around the world without trouble.
You should probably have gone Kawasaki instead of a yamaha as the piggyback alternators on them are dry at the joint and don't even need a cover....

Yer ok so I pulled the thing to pieces to do what im planning and I am doing it the way I have been told except that I haven't got a lath to make a plate up for the cover and it would cost me ALOT more to get a plate made than the alternator is worth.

I have a blanking plug coming at the stately cost of $10 to put in the bearing hole.

I appreciate the advise you have given.

**kiwi cowboy** · 10th December 2015, 11:11

Originally Posted by eldog

Ya just cant beat experience, that's why I listen to my elders, they have been there done that.

I agree to a point.
I have lisened to my elders but as I have stated the alternator is worth less than cost of getting a plate made.
Plus I like thinking outside the square a bit and having a go myself

sometimes it works sometimes not

.
I do have two more alternators available in the shed if needed so one pulled apart is not the end of the world