Goddam F%&^* C(&W(R bloody flaming flywheel!

[Nobbsie]

So the bike is my gsxr400 91.
the problem is : flywheel so goddamn tight cannot get it off.
there is no way i can see to get a conventional puller to it so i am using a triangular puller across the three 8mm holes on the flywheel and pushing on the loosened flywheel bold itself.
have done this before on other bikes and usually works a treat. the flywheel is on there so tight that im snapping 8mm bolts through the middle trying to pull it off.
also trying to do this without damaging anything on the bike.
any tips or advise would be much appreciated.
Cheerss
Nobbsie

[Katman]

Install the three puller bolts, wind the centre bolt in tight and give it a smack with a hammer. (The centre bolt that is).

[Laava]

You will need to get that puller on there and tension it up before applying heat. I am picking it has been loctited on. No drama, but you will need heat. If you don't have access to a gas welding set, go to bunnings and buy a butane torch. Just gently keep applying heat to the flywheel in a circular motion around the end of the crank. Once the job is done you can celebrate by whipping up a batch of creme brulees. Thus you will get laid as well if you play your cards right.

[Nobbsie]

well tried to hit it with no success, cant get into work for the oxy set till the 13th, tried heat gun but cant get enough heat into it.
cheers

[Katman]

well tried to hit it with no success,

Did you give it a ladies hit?

[Nobbsie]

i hit the living shit out of it.
only hammer next size up is a sledgehammer

[Katman]

i hit the living shit out of it.
only hammer next size up is a sledgehammer

Couple of other points.....

The three legged puller needs to be adjusted so the central bolt is as perfectly in line with the crankshaft as you can get it.

Secondly the type of hammer blow makes a difference. A sharp smack while allowing the hammer to 'bounce back' is what you want rather than a 'dead blow'.

[Nobbsie]

just hit it hard with the heat gun and hit it again and got it!
thanks guys!
turns out someone had glued it in????????
is this common?

[Katman]

just hit it hard with the heat gun and hit it again and got it!
thanks guys!
turns out someone had glued it in????????
is this common?

Being on a tapered shaft there should be no need to use any glue or loctite on it. (Unless the flywheel has worked loose in the past and compromised the mating surface).

If so, some grinding paste with the woodruff key removed (followed by careful cleaning of said paste) should get the surface back.

[Nobbsie]

sweet will look into it.
when putting it all back together is it worth putting copper lube on it?

[Katman]

sweet will look into it.
when putting it all back together is it worth putting copper lube on it?

No, the whole idea of the tapered shaft is to get as tight a fit as possible.

[Askor]

Put some valve lapping paste on the taper and without the woodruff key in it spin the flywheel backwards and forwards 50 times or so, or until you can see the surfaces are mated to each other. Then DEGREASE both the crank and the flywheel taper surfaces before re-installing.

[husaberg]

Put some valve lapping paste on the taper and without the woodruff key in it spin the flywheel backwards and forwards 50 times or so, or until you can see the surfaces are mated to each other. Then DEGREASE both the crank and the flywheel taper surfaces before re-installing.

A thin smear of bearing blue goes a long way to making it easier to see its a perfect fit on the taper.
Its great for marking out DIY gaskets as well.Cheap to $10 will last a lifetime for DIY use.