"Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin (1706-90)
"I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending to much liberty than those attending too small a degree of it." - Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826)
"Motorcycling is not inherently dangerous. It is, however, EXTREMELY unforgiving of inattention, ignorance, incompetence and stupidity!" - Anonymous
"Live to Ride, Ride to Live"
Not a fair comparison. Socks smell bad after a day let alone a week. Helmets don't if worn regularly.
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I suppose in that analogy though the sock would be hair. Mine gets washed regularly.
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Startle away there chap.
Been using this for years.Horse riding gear/Army issue boots/ leather riding gear/Belts
Only time I had stitching rot away was when I neglected to use dubbin and stored the item away for a period of time like 6 months.
Perhaps a laziness issue than a product one for some people.
I think the rotting stitching thing has to do with preperation. Seen this claim made about many products including beeswax. If the stitching is damp when waterproofed it cannot dry.
Which is the main reason I don't condition on the same day I clean.
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You prefer to borrow from someone who enjoys polishing their helmet?
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I would agree with that, I always dry out my gear if I am going to waterproof it - Snowseal/beeswax- for me boots.
Revit socks last a few days before they get itchy - then you know to wash/change them. Much better than other brands.
I sometimes condition when I clean my hair with Shampoo.
Wear a balaclava(they recognise me when I walk into a bank) - clean that often, doesn't take much to dry , to keep my helmet clean-its almost like new.
READ AND UDESTAND
For saddlery (leather - good quality - I have strapping that cost more than twice the retile price of my bike jacket, saddles that are worth the same as a second hand bike, etc).
Warm damp cloth to wipe off any grime. Effax Leder Kombi (Effax are German) if particularly dirty. Stubben saddle soap to help condition (glycerine is a humectant, so attracts moisture). Also a German product. Effax Leder Balsalm to condition, this has beexwax etc. On bike leathers I'd possibly skip the saddle soap, and use a heavier beexwax product instead of the Leder Balsalm.
Most people use some kind of oil on saddlery: it rots stitching, and kills the leather when you use too much (oil saturates the fibres and then they stretch). I steer well clear of it for leather.
Taking care of leather can be a chapter all to itself. My approach has been refined over the years. Damp cloth to get rid of bug remains, maybe a soft toothbrush for any stubborn stuff stuck in difficult areas, such as stitching etc. Hang to dry for a day. Beeswax based product to apply once dry, use the wifes' hairdryer to gently warm the leather so I can rub the conditioner in. Let hang for an hour or two, repeat the heating cycle. Gently rub off the excess, maybe buff gently...some of you on here will be familiar with this buffing process
For gloves I use a Harley Davidson leather conditioner, yeah ok it's the only HD branded product I use, and this is just a lighter version of the Dubbin/Snoseal/Beezwax type products. Clean, dry, condition, heat, wipe off excess, repeat heat cycle, wipe off, buff if necessary. Repeat every 3-6 months.
Now that's for the leather stuff I use outdoors, the indoor leather gear has a different care regime...
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