Cleaning and conditioning leather gear - Do you and how?

[swbarnett]

Thats disgusting.

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That's your opinion. I think mine holds one hell of a lot more weight when we're talking about my helmet.

Each to their own....

[nzspokes]

That's your opinion. I think mine holds one hell of a lot more weight when we're talking about my helmet.

Each to their own....

Do you bother washing your socks?

[Big Dog]

Not a fair comparison. Socks smell bad after a day let alone a week. Helmets don't if worn regularly.

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[Big Dog]

I suppose in that analogy though the sock would be hair. Mine gets washed regularly.

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[RGVforme]

I'm just a bit startled that in the 21st century people still recommend Dubbin. It's awful shit and can rot the stitching in anything it comes in contact with.
Once upon a time it was probably all you could get in this country, but that was a bloody long time ago.

Startle away there chap.

Been using this for years.Horse riding gear/Army issue boots/ leather riding gear/Belts

Only time I had stitching rot away was when I neglected to use dubbin and stored the item away for a period of time like 6 months.

Perhaps a laziness issue than a product one for some people.

[Big Dog]

I think the rotting stitching thing has to do with preperation. Seen this claim made about many products including beeswax. If the stitching is damp when waterproofed it cannot dry.
Which is the main reason I don't condition on the same day I clean.

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[RGVforme]

I think the rotting stitching thing has to do with preperation. Seen this claim made about many products including beeswax. If the stitching is damp when waterproofed it cannot dry.
Which is the main reason I don't condition on the same day I clean.

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Now there is a good point I never thought of BD I check my gear is always well dry before treatment.

Me guesses that any product would lock any water in.

[nzspokes]

Not a fair comparison. Socks smell bad after a day let alone a week. Helmets don't if worn regularly.

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[RGVforme]

This part of the tread will spring to mind the next time I go to say or hear the words "Mate have you got a helmet I can borrow" lol.

[Big Dog]

You prefer to borrow from someone who enjoys polishing their helmet?

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[eldog]

beeswax. If the stitching is damp when waterproofed it cannot dry.
Which is the main reason I don't condition on the same day I clean.

I would agree with that, I always dry out my gear if I am going to waterproof it - Snowseal/beeswax- for me boots.

Revit socks last a few days before they get itchy - then you know to wash/change them. Much better than other brands.


I sometimes condition when I clean my hair with Shampoo.

Wear a balaclava(they recognise me when I walk into a bank) - clean that often, doesn't take much to dry , to keep my helmet clean-its almost like new.

[Big Dog]

I sometimes condition when I clean my hair with Shampoo.

Same logic around not using detergent unless it is needed and conditioning if I do.
Or only washing because I need to condition.

Washing detergent works by stripping oils. Conditioner works by providing a replacement for the oils...

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[RGVforme]

You prefer to borrow from someone who enjoys polishing their helmet?

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Seems to be a plentiful supply of self helmet polishers on KB if I did. lol.

[HEsch]

For saddlery (leather - good quality - I have strapping that cost more than twice the retile price of my bike jacket, saddles that are worth the same as a second hand bike, etc).
Warm damp cloth to wipe off any grime. Effax Leder Kombi (Effax are German) if particularly dirty. Stubben saddle soap to help condition (glycerine is a humectant, so attracts moisture). Also a German product. Effax Leder Balsalm to condition, this has beexwax etc. On bike leathers I'd possibly skip the saddle soap, and use a heavier beexwax product instead of the Leder Balsalm.

Most people use some kind of oil on saddlery: it rots stitching, and kills the leather when you use too much (oil saturates the fibres and then they stretch). I steer well clear of it for leather.

[caspernz]

Taking care of leather can be a chapter all to itself. My approach has been refined over the years. Damp cloth to get rid of bug remains, maybe a soft toothbrush for any stubborn stuff stuck in difficult areas, such as stitching etc. Hang to dry for a day. Beeswax based product to apply once dry, use the wifes' hairdryer to gently warm the leather so I can rub the conditioner in. Let hang for an hour or two, repeat the heating cycle. Gently rub off the excess, maybe buff gently...some of you on here will be familiar with this buffing process

For gloves I use a Harley Davidson leather conditioner, yeah ok it's the only HD branded product I use, and this is just a lighter version of the Dubbin/Snoseal/Beezwax type products. Clean, dry, condition, heat, wipe off excess, repeat heat cycle, wipe off, buff if necessary. Repeat every 3-6 months.

Now that's for the leather stuff I use outdoors, the indoor leather gear has a different care regime...