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Thread: Cleaning and conditioning leather gear - Do you and how?

  1. #1
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    Cleaning and conditioning leather gear - Do you and how?

    I was asked how I clean my leather gear, the following has served me well but I was also interested to see what other do / use?

    For road used leathers getting rid of the accumulated oil and bugs in concern number two. Not shrinking our gear is concern number 1.
    Not washing dyes etc off is concern number 3, some people may not care about this preferring a bit of a patina.


    First I get rid of the bugs.
    I only do the side facing into traffic for this part.
    Lay the gear in question flat, and put a warm wet towel on top. Not hot. About body temp.
    Go and do something else for 30 minutes.
    With a damp cloth wipe away any bugs, rinsing the cloth regularly (no point depositing the same bugs elsewhere).
    Then wipe along the seams.
    Repeat until you can wring out the cloth without getting a grey colour in your water.


    The rest I do all over.
    Some people will advise giving a good scrub with saddle soap.
    I don't scrub as it ages the leather and can lead to cracking if you take too much out, whatever leather appropriate soap you can lay your hands on (including saddle soap) lather it up with warm water onto a towel or cloth (you can use the one you soaked under if you are not doing any other pieces) and leave it laying on your garment for 10 - 15 minutes or as long as it takes to go from body temp to room temp. If you can, hanging it up with a cloth draped over both sides saves a bit of time.

    Then give it a wipe and repeat until you have water that is mostly clear when you ring it out, pay particular attention to seams. The soap residue will make it slightly brown but you don't want it to look like frothy tea when you wring it out.
    The back is rarely dirty but you want the colours to look the same and I am told that after a few washes you will see a difference in the sunlight.

    Lastly I give it a quick wipe with warm dish water. This speeds up the drying time and can be skipped if you are not in a hurry.

    IF you want to wash your linings, sponge diluted sport wash through liberally then sponge through clean water until it comes clear.

    Lay flat or hang on a heavy coat hanger in the shade till dry. You can hang in a heated room or over a dehumidifier if in a hurry but don't put it directly in front of a heat source or your dye may change colour and your leather may dry out.


    From here it gets a bit personal but I like beeswax based product others insist mink oil, I don't think that matters as much as the leather must be warmer than it will ever get while you are wearing it when you put it on if you don't want it on your clothes first sunny day.

    In the past I have used a hair dryer on high and heat gun on low, but keep it moving so as to not take anything out of the leather you want the leather warm enough to be uncomfortable but not scalding. Others swear by the leave it sitting in the sun for 10-20 minutes on a hot day.
    IF the weather is cold you may want to warm your product first.
    Daub it along the seems until there is some sitting on top as the leather cools it should suck it up.
    Once you have hit all the seams evenly across the remainder of the leather... you will need a lot less and are mostly looking to colour match to your seams.

    I am sure others will have other processes, some will disagree with my system, but this is my system for how I can clean my jacket, pants, gloves and boots in about 2 hours on a Friday night and have them dry enough to condition in about 2 hours on a Saturday with a single pot of snow seal or similar beeswax based product.

    For bonus points with your leathers but debit points with your mrs leave them in the hot water cupboard for a day or two. This will allow any excess product to soak into the leather but may make other laundry smell a bit.
    If you can't do that give them another blast with the heat source the day after.


    I have found the liquid beeswax and liquid saddle soap are easier to use but less effective and with way more residue for way less product.

    Links to the products I have used to do the above.
    http://www.saddlerywarehouse.co.nz/a...ctdetails.html (This is a similar product not the one I used to use, probably what I will buy when I need some more though)
    http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/product...rproofing.aspx
    http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/product...port_wash.aspx

  2. #2
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    PS. IF your gear is not fitting to the ideal. Put it on when it is no longer dripping but before it is completely dry after the wash stage, wear it until dry or at least comfortable.
    Your body heat will help it to stretch a little where tight and shrink a little where loose.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Dog View Post
    I was asked how I clean my leather gear, the following has served me well but I was also interested to see what other do / use?

    For road used leathers getting rid of the accumulated oil and bugs in concern number two. Not shrinking our gear is concern number 1.
    Not washing dyes etc off is concern number 3, some people may not care about this preferring a bit of a patina.


    First I get rid of the bugs.
    I only do the side facing into traffic for this part.
    Lay the gear in question flat, and put a warm wet towel on top. Not hot. About body temp.
    Go and do something else for 30 minutes.
    With a damp cloth wipe away any bugs, rinsing the cloth regularly (no point depositing the same bugs elsewhere).
    Then wipe along the seams.
    Repeat until you can wring out the cloth without getting a grey colour in your water.


    The rest I do all over.
    Some people will advise giving a good scrub with saddle soap.
    I don't scrub as it ages the leather and can lead to cracking if you take too much out, whatever leather appropriate soap you can lay your hands on (including saddle soap) lather it up with warm water onto a towel or cloth (you can use the one you soaked under if you are not doing any other pieces) and leave it laying on your garment for 10 - 15 minutes or as long as it takes to go from body temp to room temp. If you can, hanging it up with a cloth draped over both sides saves a bit of time.

    Then give it a wipe and repeat until you have water that is mostly clear when you ring it out, pay particular attention to seams. The soap residue will make it slightly brown but you don't want it to look like frothy tea when you wring it out.
    The back is rarely dirty but you want the colours to look the same and I am told that after a few washes you will see a difference in the sunlight.

    Lastly I give it a quick wipe with warm dish water. This speeds up the drying time and can be skipped if you are not in a hurry.

    IF you want to wash your linings, sponge diluted sport wash through liberally then sponge through clean water until it comes clear.

    Lay flat or hang on a heavy coat hanger in the shade till dry. You can hang in a heated room or over a dehumidifier if in a hurry but don't put it directly in front of a heat source or your dye may change colour and your leather may dry out.


    From here it gets a bit personal but I like beeswax based product others insist mink oil, I don't think that matters as much as the leather must be warmer than it will ever get while you are wearing it when you put it on if you don't want it on your clothes first sunny day.

    In the past I have used a hair dryer on high and heat gun on low, but keep it moving so as to not take anything out of the leather you want the leather warm enough to be uncomfortable but not scalding. Others swear by the leave it sitting in the sun for 10-20 minutes on a hot day.
    IF the weather is cold you may want to warm your product first.
    Daub it along the seems until there is some sitting on top as the leather cools it should suck it up.
    Once you have hit all the seams evenly across the remainder of the leather... you will need a lot less and are mostly looking to colour match to your seams.

    I am sure others will have other processes, some will disagree with my system, but this is my system for how I can clean my jacket, pants, gloves and boots in about 2 hours on a Friday night and have them dry enough to condition in about 2 hours on a Saturday with a single pot of snow seal or similar beeswax based product.

    For bonus points with your leathers but debit points with your mrs leave them in the hot water cupboard for a day or two. This will allow any excess product to soak into the leather but may make other laundry smell a bit.
    If you can't do that give them another blast with the heat source the day after.


    I have found the liquid beeswax and liquid saddle soap are easier to use but less effective and with way more residue for way less product.

    Links to the products I have used to do the above.
    http://www.saddlerywarehouse.co.nz/a...ctdetails.html (This is a similar product not the one I used to use, probably what I will buy when I need some more though)
    http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/product...rproofing.aspx
    http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/product...port_wash.aspx
    Bugger all that.....

    Wipe it down with a warm water only damp cloth.

    Let it dry.

    Rub down with Kiwi neutral boot Dubbin.Comes out as soft as a babys arse.

    F**king ride on.

    Leather is a living thing you have to feed it.Dont and it shrivels up like a dead cow in the desert.

  4. #4
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    A good going over about once a year with "Bone Dry" is all mine gets. Even though it gets daily use.

    Bugs aren't a problem. They're all on the fairing.
    "Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin (1706-90)

    "I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending to much liberty than those attending too small a degree of it." - Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826)

    "Motorcycling is not inherently dangerous. It is, however, EXTREMELY unforgiving of inattention, ignorance, incompetence and stupidity!" - Anonymous

    "Live to Ride, Ride to Live"

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by RGVforme View Post
    Bugger all that.....

    Wipe it down with a warm water only damp cloth.

    Let it dry.

    Rub down with Kiwi neutral boot Dubbin.Comes out as soft as a babys arse.

    F**king ride on.

    Leather is a living thing you have to feed it.Dont and it shrivels up like a dead cow in the desert.
    I hear you. I don't do the whole lot more than every 3 years. Just whatever is necessary. If I clean the bugs off without detergent in don't seem to need the other products.

    Sent via tapatalk.

  6. #6
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    Pick gear up off the floor, put gear on, ride , take gear off , dump back on floor.
    I'm only wearing black until they develop something darker




    We came, We listened, And in one voice we answered
    BULLSHIT!! BULLSHIT!! BULLSHIT!! BULLSHIT!! BULLSHIT!!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawkeye View Post
    Pick gear up off the floor, put gear on, ride , take gear off , dump back on floor.
    Where do you live? - The Swamp?

  8. #8
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    I just wipe off anything nasty and then once in a while I re-do the waterproofing/protectant using: http://www.obenaufs.com/Heavy-Duty-L...-duty-lp-8.htm
    I had that product recommended on another forum so I bought some, seems to work really well. My leather jacket keeps me dry in any rain, my textile jacket doesn't work nearly as well.
    ----------------------------------------------------
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  9. #9
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    I wash my leathers with warm water, then rub in black kiwi boot polish. Every so often I also rub in bees wax (I have a tin of this http://www.beeseal.co.nz/BeeSeal-Facts) for waterproofing and to keep the leather supple ..
    "So if you meet me, have some sympathy, have some courtesy, have some taste ..."

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawkeye View Post
    Pick gear up off the floor, put gear on, ride , take gear off , dump back on floor.
    My leathers are the MOST expensive article of clothing I own (just my leather jacket alone is worth around eight times the cost of the clothes I wear to work) .. I took a short contract job over and above what I earn in my day job just to buy my leather riding pants ...

    So I treat them accordingly ...
    "So if you meet me, have some sympathy, have some courtesy, have some taste ..."

  11. #11
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    I use leatherique. Wrap in a plastic bag on a hot day for the oil to penetrate for a day. Then clean with the pristine clean.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by swbarnett View Post
    A good going over about once a year with "Bone Dry" is all mine gets. Even though it gets daily use.

    Bugs aren't a problem. They're all on the fairing.
    Have you washed the inside of your helmet yet?
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzspokes View Post
    Have you washed the inside of your helmet yet?
    No. Totally unnecessary.
    "Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin (1706-90)

    "I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending to much liberty than those attending too small a degree of it." - Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826)

    "Motorcycling is not inherently dangerous. It is, however, EXTREMELY unforgiving of inattention, ignorance, incompetence and stupidity!" - Anonymous

    "Live to Ride, Ride to Live"

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by swbarnett View Post
    No. Totally unnecessary.
    Thats disgusting.

    Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by RGVforme View Post
    Rub down with Kiwi neutral boot Dubbin.
    I'm just a bit startled that in the 21st century people still recommend Dubbin. It's awful shit and can rot the stitching in anything it comes in contact with.
    Once upon a time it was probably all you could get in this country, but that was a bloody long time ago.
    There is a grey blur, and a green blur. I try to stay on the grey one. - Joey Dunlop

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