KB's Chief Cats
the bank will fuck you up.Originally Posted by sheddy
One way i'm seeing, especially if you're parking up top, is to have a second slab at the higher level also tied into the "retaining" as that really is a helluve span to spring off the lower slab.
May also need piles under the top one to act as anchors.
This is if you're not slabbing over your garage
Deffo an engineering job though.
Also, go 2.8 (2.7 doesnt happen with blocks unless you get a gay size or do a half course).
Wearing Hi-Viz Black.
Nah. These were the "developers/workers" doing the shady. You know the ones, buying a bit of dirt and doing the whole build all by themselves.
I'm watching a real dodgy one on the North Shore that looks palatial from the outside... Wouldn't want to be within 100metres of it in an earthquake or strong wind though.
Did you know that you can fix a 5m long weatherboard in place with Qty:2 nails?
Oh, and some paint on top?
TOP QUOTE: “The problem with socialism is that sooner or later you run out of other people’s money.”
Forum whore
Re car hoists, I just measured a couple of mine that have cars right to the top overnight. You will need 3 metres ceiling height to get a standard sedan to the top of the hoist, vans a lot more. if you cant stand fully upright under the car on the hoist, then you are better off without one.
I know guys with low ceilings that have tripwires to turn the hoist off when the car is just off the ceiling, its a fairly poor option.
KB's Chief Cats
3m is only 1 more course of blocks from 2.8.
Working on a wheelie chair is way more better than standing up though.
Moped rider
Hey chaps. It looks like I may have a section deal going down. Geotech report to happen. Now if the report is good I will need to start talking to a lawyer to sort the contract then Architect, engineer, council or builder. Which one first. Or should I just take my house concept to some of the Waikato outfits building moderately priced homes. OHH and a darn Bank..... All the banks seem much of a muchness many have good people, but its the policy and rules they get constarined by. Ive got accounts with BNZ ANZ and the plastic with Kiwi bank.To borrow money to build the house I guess I need to show a valuer the concept plans. Anyone been through this initial phase recently. I should have just on the 20% deposit. Are new homes in waikato 10 or 20% deposit.
I definitely am hoping to get the basement 18m x10m so there is room for cars workshop and mancave. It needs to be insulated as id like the cars and my Harley to stay warm enough condensation doesn't form after winter runs.
any recommendations. Anyone dealt with latitude homes or competitive homes.
Thanks
Forum whore
Your best bet (if you can find the right builder) is to do the design and consent through the builder. A good builder will use a cheap draughtsperson guided by the builder to avoid expensive design features. Rather than you using an expensive architect who tells you that his design will only cost $x to build, only to find out during the consent and/or tender process that it will really cost you $xxxx and that it is simply un-affordable without major re-design (a very common occurrence).
Finding the right builder is the trick as they are few and far between imo. Unless you want to spend big $, steer clear of good builders who have won lots of awards. As a general rule, group housing companies provide good value for money when you use their design, but the moment you start changing things (often even little things) the price starts to rocket. They are usually very expensive when building something different to their standard designs.
Ask around the local supply merchants, and people who have recently had builds done. Also sub contractors often know who the good (under the radar) builders are (who often don't advertise but just quietly get on with it).
Unless you heat your garage the potential for condensation won't go away simply by installing insulation. An open carport with plenty of roof cover (to prevent driving rain from being a problem) and loads of ventilation prevents condensation and rusting better than a fully enclosed garage (unless you ventilate the garage well, or condition the air to keep it well below saturation point). Heating the air increases the uptake of moisture vapor, but it will dump the moisture vapor over cold surfaces when the temperature drops. Ventilation or dehumidifiers are best for moisture vapor control. However ventilation (and more particularly heating) would benefit from insulation as it would help offset the heat loss caused by the introduction of colder exterior air. Don't ventilate the garage from the roof space as the moisture vapor level within the roof space is a lot higher than within or outside of the house.
Political correctness: a doctrine which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd from the clean end.
KB's Chief Cats
as above^^
builder *or project manager.
Goldenhomes etc have LMU plans, which is why it's cheap.
Extensions/modification/additions require reconsenting. Redrafting etc. And yes, add up very quick. Going with your own design: forget it.
KB's Chief Cats
process is builder/+architect > engineer > architect > council > slabber > (inspections etc) > blocky > builder
a p.m. Will know the, people, order, and make sure every nigga is where they should be when needed.
Moped rider
Whats an LMU and how do you find a project manager. Would that be your builder.
Now if you want a change to internal walls is that an issue as well. Surely from the hundreds of variation people request to suit their own needs put to people such as Golden homes, they probably have already built something pretty much as you want previously that has been consented?
Forum whore
each site must have it own consent as no site is the same as next door.Unless you build exactly the same house as next door.A concrete block basement will have very good structural and quite good insulation values.What you need to do is go a couple of group builders,and look at their plans,and pick one which will give you your basement.18x10 is a huge open space and will give you 180 sq metres thats a bloody big house in itself! 18 m is at least 3 cars long 10m is 3 cars wide with plenty of room between.Then you use one of their std plans on top of something that will be very easy to design.The only real unknown is the ground bearing of the site.Once that is known an engineer can easily design your garage/retaining wall.
That big garage wont be cheap
KB's Chief Cats
sorry, nmu, or "multiproof" = pre-approved floor/structure plans that, as the name implies, are certed for multiple use, ie they build the same house again and again and again.
Any variation = not nmu, = specific design.
Depending on roof bearing requirements, moving a wall could be a major, or not.
A builder may be p.m. Or not.
Anorak
From what you are writing what you want to build is colloquially known as a Carriage.
https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=ca...uiApwQ_AUIBygB
https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=ca...ngs+blueprints
http://www.behmdesign.com/apartment_garage_plans.aspx
https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=ap...IaX9u69C3jM%3A
Try googling plans for one. Find what you want then get it engineered to suit the NZ regs.
Have you been watching reruns of Happy Days.
Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Forum whore
Stick with a good builder and you won't need or benefit from a PM. While project managers can save you money by avoiding fuckups (or at least the cost of some of them if you are acting as the main contractor) and by managing the client (to ensure timely decisions), as far a simple builds go, the only thing they add is cost and really aren't warranted if you have a full 'turn key' contract with a good builder.
You would think group housing companies could accommodate cost effective variations but that is seldom the case. What you appear to want is completely different from the designs that group housing companies are geared for (irrespective of whether it is simpler or more complex), they (staff and contractors) just aren't geared for it, though there are some exceptions and it is probably worth exploring the option. They know their limitations and price variations so as to avoid them. (hate them like the plague, but would seldom admit that to the clients)
Someone else made a good point about the size of your build. Do you know what you are getting yourself into cost wise? If the area of the house (above the garage) is to equal the size of the garage you are in for a big bill. 180 x $1500m2 (min) + 180 x$ 850m2 (min) = $423,000 just for the build (that's cheap). It could cost anywhere up to double that (depending of design and specification). That's why I threw in the suggestion regarding the cheaper free standing timber pole retaining wall and pole house foundation wrapped up with wall framing). Sloping sites are subject to soil creep (at minimum) and often require down-slope piling of the leading edge foundations (or in-ground barrier retaining walls) for concrete floor slabs as well as the retaining walls. Pole foundations are simply extended down another 2 or 3 metres to achieve the same effect.
Also, you don't want to be paying $2k or $3K for a geotech report for every site you look at. If the owners want to sell the properties you should be putting it back on them to verify the buildability of the properties by working with a geotech engineer to identify the likely building platform and carrying out three or four borehole tests etc. They only pay the one time and can add the cost to their price (for them it is guaranteed cost recovery). Many property owners do this before they market the property so they know what they are selling.
Political correctness: a doctrine which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd from the clean end.
Moped rider
Whoa, back up the bus a bit...
When I can get my scanner to work after windows 10 has now "possesed" it, Ill show you a sketch. You may well be right and I wont be able to afford it. Now think transportable house on top of basement. transportable house 8m x18m [144m2]for say 270-280k leaving a two meter deck running along the front of the house above the front of the basement. Maybe I can only afford 18 x8 and not 10m garage depth.
transportable either lifted on after wards 2 big cranes??/ weight is probably not an issue. Slinging a load like that could be.. Or jack up transportable and build basement underneath.
The block basement with several garage doors along the front would cost more than 100k???
Keep the info coming guys its really helpful to me and hopefully others too. Oh just in case you wondering how much the section is when my contract is finalised Ill give you an indication but it will be less than 200k. its not Auckland thank the stars.
How do I insert a jpeg image?
KB's Chief Cats
easily .
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks