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Thread: Getting started with racing?

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigertim20 View Post
    ahaha well this has been entertaining!.
    One of the most fiercely debated topics in biking is the big vs small and whether one needs to work their way up in size.
    Aside from Drew being Drew everyone has made some valid points about pros and cons.

    Good luck deciding, hopefully see you at Levels some time


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  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellywrestler View Post

    yip, they had three classic sidecars there for the first time....
    That figures, I dropped my mrs off at the last meeting & headed on to rainbows end. It seemed the more grown up thing to do.

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigertim20 View Post
    ahaha well this has been entertaining!.

    Looks like I have a bit more thinking to do. I will contact local clubs and discuss what classes etc they have and go from there.

    Still not convinced one way or the other on a bike type - I will have to consider this a bit ore after talking to local groups I guess.

    Thanks for the input folks!
    PM me for race bikes I have two for sale that may suit you
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  4. #64
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    THREAD DREDGE.

    Im now within spitting distance of buying a bike to race. Money is there, and Im fizzing to get something.

    Having re-read everything on here several times, I have decided a few things, and have a couple of questions.

    Ive decided I dont want to go into buckets.
    Ive also decided that going onto a litre bike is not likely to be the best benefit to me.

    So, I have a low budget (very low, Im not buying anything late model here!)

    Im thinking about options like ex250, cbr / vfr / zxr 400's, of which there are a few floating around - I see that several are 1989 models, which made me wonder, is it worthwhile getting something like a 1989 inline 4 400, and racing in pre '89 and another class as well? - my thinking here is that if I have a bike thats rideable in two classes, Ill get more race time = more learning time = more improvement.

    or maybe a 600. I dont get real turned on by the 650 twins though - but a compelling argument might sway me.

    SO my questions are: what bikes might be able to be cross entered in different classes? -

    I dont have the money for an ex300, but could go for a 250 - are those classes fairly supported in my area?

    Im interested in mostly racing at levels and teretonga, and the odd ruapuna when I can get that far away.

    FWIW - im 6 feet, and fluctuate between 70kg, and 90 kg, depending on whether im in camp or not, if that influences suggestions for a good bike.

    Ive got about 20 bikes on various watchlists and I need to make a choice!

  5. #65
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    Yes... the F3 pre 89's would suit you and can be competitive still in prolite - the F3 equivalent.
    BUT they are high maintenance, high precision instruments. Getting the right one is important.
    Knowing what you're doing on them is even more important.

    A pre 89 600 would probably be better except that your second class would be clubmans....

    Depends what's run at Teretonga and how they break up the classes there.

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    Yes... the F3 pre 89's would suit you and can be competitive still in prolite - the F3 equivalent.
    BUT they are high maintenance, high precision instruments. Getting the right one is important.
    Knowing what you're doing on them is even more important.

    A pre 89 600 would probably be better except that your second class would be clubmans....

    Depends what's run at Teretonga and how they break up the classes there.
    aside from the usual normal mechanical stuff like fluid changes, regular inspection of drivetrain, suspension etc, what other bits are likely to to require 'high' maintenance?

    Im fairly mechanical, and do my own servicing on road bikes. Eager to learn a bit more if theres much race - specific stuff.

    For f3 pre '89 stuff, are there models that are 'better' for any reason, or that respond well to any fettling - as allowed within the rules?

  7. #67
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    BIKE that tt20 likes

    This I noticed a couple of days ago.
    Could be worth enquiry.
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  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigertim20 View Post
    aside from the usual normal mechanical stuff like fluid changes, regular inspection of drivetrain, suspension etc, what other bits are likely to to require 'high' maintenance?

    Im fairly mechanical, and do my own servicing on road bikes. Eager to learn a bit more if theres much race - specific stuff.

    For f3 pre '89 stuff, are there models that are 'better' for any reason, or that respond well to any fettling - as allowed within the rules?
    Oh yes....
    For a start, most originally came with 18in rear wheels. The yamaha, suzuki, kawasaki and the IL4 Hondas are fairly easy to do 17's for but not so the V4 hondas...
    Cams can be a problem if you're serious. There were never very many sets of race cams around for any of them.
    Rods and pistons again a problem, solvable with money...The V4's in particular need custom pistons to raise compression as you can't cut the heads.
    Many have been blown up over the years, anything you buy now may be built up from surviving bits....
    Cases are getting tired, in some examples, barrels are now hard to find in good nick. Pistons likewise. Ignitions can be dodgy.

    In theory if you're doing pre 89 F3 you should keep to 400cc. In practice, I really don't know how many of the "F3" bikes are actually 450cc.

    If you do look at an F3 pre 89, I'd want to see receipts - and ask who last built it. Speak to them if possible.

  9. #69
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    Modern ish 600. Take a plug lead off and put a resister over the injector plug for the same slug.

    Run it back on 4 from time to time, the full time when ya wanna step up to F2.

  10. #70
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    I run a 1989 zxr400/444 and have done for last ten odd years. I wouldn't describe it as high maintenance. Plenty of parts still around if you know where to look. Can be raced (at or near the front of the field) at any race meeting in the country. No other machine would be that versatile - so yeah great for track time.
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  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharky View Post
    I run a 1989 zxr400/444 and have done for last ten odd years. I wouldn't describe it as high maintenance. Plenty of parts still around if you know where to look. Can be raced (at or near the front of the field) at any race meeting in the country. No other machine would be that versatile - so yeah great for track time.
    I agree broadly with what you say. The problem the OP has in the SI is that the same rolling chassis have been through many owners - and many engines.
    Finding one with a one owner for 10 year history like yours is improbable.
    Even finding a good 400 road bike and converting it is now very hard.
    Last time I was talking to Andy Bolwell he was saying it's getting harder to put a good one together.
    Personally, I won't work on them now unless someone comes to me with an open ended budget....and I'd be reluctant even then.

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew View Post
    Modern ish 600. Take a plug lead off and put a resister over the injector plug for the same slug.

    Run it back on 4 from time to time, the full time when ya wanna step up to F2.
    The resister only works with the CBRs. However, there's other ways to do it with GSXRs, R6s etc.

    The 450 triples go really well. If you leave the engine stock they get 6+ years of racing without a rebuild so maintenance is just consumables and valve clearances. Second hand tyres are plentiful and cheap, as are aftermarket bits.
    Zen wisdom: No matter what happens, somebody will find a way to take it too seriously. - obviously had KB in mind when he came up with that gem

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  13. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mental Trousers View Post
    The resister only works with the CBRs. However, there's other ways to do it with GSXRs, R6s etc.

    The 450 triples go really well. If you leave the engine stock they get 6+ years of racing without a rebuild so maintenance is just consumables and valve clearances. Second hand tyres are plentiful and cheap, as are aftermarket bits.
    Why does the resistor only work on the CBR?

    Tricking the ECU into thinking it's pulsing the injector is all you're doing. The same can be done to the coil wires if the ECU is clever and goes into limp mode if it's running on three. I only know of cars that do that though.

  14. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew View Post
    Why does the resistor only work on the CBR?

    Tricking the ECU into thinking it's pulsing the injector is all you're doing. The same can be done to the coil wires if the ECU is clever and goes into limp mode if it's running on three. I only know of cars that do that though.
    The CBR is the only one of the 600's that looks for resistance, the others look for different behaviour typical of an inductor, ie characteristics that change over time.
    Zen wisdom: No matter what happens, somebody will find a way to take it too seriously. - obviously had KB in mind when he came up with that gem

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  15. #75
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    I'm with Drew and Shane on the viability of a 450/3 out of a 600. I think it has a good easy reliable push button solution that will ensure good miles at the circuit rather than working hours on something. That holds a lot of merit, believe me. Nothing worse than taking a broken bike home after it's popped something at the circuit, frustrating as hell.

    I thought about doing the 450 conversion to a R6 or like, as an addition to my current high maintenance but high excitement "race stable". But in the end I went for an Ex300 thinking it will after 30+ years of racing still teach me lots (and it does!). I just about fell off it I was laughing so hard the first time I rode it. I'm not worried about the lack of straight line speed (lol, 35hp and me also at about 90kg currently)- it's all about corner entry and mid corner speed and how much I can convince myself how fast you can actually go 9and the bar is bloody high!). Last meeting I was just inside the top 1/3rd against some young guys on Hyo's who haven't hurt themselves yet.

    .....There's also Ex250's around, which run concurrent and they are usually only 2/3rd the price. Tyres were 450 a set and will do most of a season.... They don't have to be expensive, look out for a crashed R3 or EX300. LOTS have been sold so they do come up regularly. After market parts are cheap also (bars, bodywork, rearsets etc). A new chain cost me $70! There's one set of brake pads and not the kinetic energy being created of a faster bike....

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