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Thread: Spoked wheel trueing?

  1. #1
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    10th September 2007 - 15:49
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    Spoked wheel trueing?

    Hi guys

    Iv got a couple of wheels for a kx250 iv just had powder coated, iv relaced them easily enough but trying to true them up is doing my head in . Does anyone have a contact for someone in hamilton to get them trued up? Thanks Drew

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by dblewett View Post
    Hi guys

    Iv got a couple of wheels for a kx250 iv just had powder coated, iv relaced them easily enough but trying to true them up is doing my head in . Does anyone have a contact for someone in hamilton to get them trued up? Thanks Drew
    try www.cycletorque.co.nz

  3. #3
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    Which part are you struggling with?
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzspokes View Post
    Which part are you struggling with?
    there's a vast step in working on 36 versus 40 spke wheels, 36 have spokes opposite, 40 don't.....

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellywrestler View Post
    there's a vast step in working on 36 versus 40 spke wheels, 36 have spokes opposite, 40 don't.....
    Whut?

    10char
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzspokes View Post
    Whut?

    10char
    simple 36 spokes have a spoke every ten degreees and there's 360 degrees in a circle so they're always opposite another, and every action has an opposite reaction. move onto 40 spokes and it's a step harder cause tighten one and it effects several.,

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellywrestler View Post
    simple 36 spokes have a spoke every ten degreees and there's 360 degrees in a circle so they're always opposite another, and every action has an opposite reaction. move onto 40 spokes and it's a step harder cause tighten one and it effects several.,
    Righto. Get it now. Still simple if you know what you are doing.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by dblewett View Post
    but trying to true them up is doing my head in .
    Quote Originally Posted by nzspokes View Post
    Righto. Get it now. Still simple if you know what you are doing.
    yip, but can't all have it sorted can we.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellywrestler View Post
    yip, but can't all have it sorted can we.
    Well may be able to help if the OP explains what the problem is.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  10. #10
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    10th September 2007 - 15:49
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    Hi guys thanks for the replys iv got the rims laced iv jiged the rear up in a spare swingarm i have to take measurements. Its off hub center to circumfrence and also hub centerline to rim centerline ie wobble. Never had a go at a rim from scratch before so new to this the 36 spoke to 360 degrees makes sense. which axis do i need to get close first before tweaking the other. should i start off from scratch with all the nipples snugged up to the rim then try equally tighten from there? Any help is muchly appreciated

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by dblewett View Post
    Hi guys thanks for the replys iv got the rims laced iv jiged the rear up in a spare swingarm i have to take measurements. Its off hub center to circumfrence and also hub centerline to rim centerline ie wobble. Never had a go at a rim from scratch before so new to this the 36 spoke to 360 degrees makes sense. which axis do i need to get close first before tweaking the other. should i start off from scratch with all the nipples snugged up to the rim then try equally tighten from there? Any help is muchly appreciated
    io always make a jig from a wheel before dismatling, are you able to do this from a similar bike by any chance?

  12. #12
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    Iv got the workshop manual that has some of the measurements just need some help on where ti start took heaps of pics of the before but not much use for measurements as the rims were bent and cracked iv got replacement rims and new spokes. The bike was in pretty bad shape when i got it had to cut all the old spokes out

  13. #13
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    Try and find out what the wheels dish needs to be. An owners forum should be a good source for this.

    A little light oil on the nipples and threads helps a lot as well.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  14. #14
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    This isn't the one I was looking for, but it's good.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCQtuGfz3c8

    One thing they don't cover is offset, in the video they don't pay much attention to exactly where the rim is sideways in relation to the hub. That should be in any decent workshop manual, and you should check it at the point the spokes are first "seated". If it's not right then tighten the spokes evenly on one side only until it's close. Then proceed as per the video.

    You don't need the jig he's got, you can cobble up something similar, but it has to hold your axle firmly in place and stop the wheel drifting sideways on it at the same time. I've tried to do it with the axle held vertically in the vice, and it worked, but it's a lot easier like the video shows.

    Can't overemphasis the lubrication and cleanliness, almost any grease will do but make sure it's on all of the spoke thread before you lace them up. Which means keep the bench clean, or you'll get shit all over the grease, which will make torquing them up completely random.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

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    Quote Originally Posted by jellywrestler View Post
    there's a vast step in working on 36 versus 40 spke wheels, 36 have spokes opposite, 40 don't.....
    Why do you even bring this up? Although I'd never considered it. But Japanese bikes predominately use 36 spokes. Kawasaki's were last to use 40 but probably changed over in early 70s.

    So starting lacing the inner spokes in with different nipple offset to the outers. Then outers and I do them all up gently with the battery drill, increasing the torque setting. Saves a bunch of time and gets you in the ballpark super quick.

    I just use a spacer and axle vertically in the vice to spin the wheel and adjust to get it true. Then "ting" every one and tighten dull ones and recheck.

    Then, if i dont have before measurements, I put it on the bike and centralise the front in the forks. You loosen every 2nd spoke 1 turn( all on the side you want to move away from), and tighten every other (on the side you want to move to). You can move the whole rim a little bit every rotation.

    Generally the rear is same procedure on most Jap bikes but check with a straight edge to the front accounting for width and you'll be fine. Bearing in mind he isn't working on a Norton for the smartarses.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

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