Hi guys
Iv got a couple of wheels for a kx250 iv just had powder coated, iv relaced them easily enough but trying to true them up is doing my head in . Does anyone have a contact for someone in hamilton to get them trued up? Thanks Drew
Hi guys
Iv got a couple of wheels for a kx250 iv just had powder coated, iv relaced them easily enough but trying to true them up is doing my head in . Does anyone have a contact for someone in hamilton to get them trued up? Thanks Drew
Hi guys thanks for the replys iv got the rims laced iv jiged the rear up in a spare swingarm i have to take measurements. Its off hub center to circumfrence and also hub centerline to rim centerline ie wobble. Never had a go at a rim from scratch before so new to this the 36 spoke to 360 degrees makes sense. which axis do i need to get close first before tweaking the other. should i start off from scratch with all the nipples snugged up to the rim then try equally tighten from there? Any help is muchly appreciated
Iv got the workshop manual that has some of the measurements just need some help on where ti start took heaps of pics of the before but not much use for measurements as the rims were bent and cracked iv got replacement rims and new spokes. The bike was in pretty bad shape when i got it had to cut all the old spokes out
This isn't the one I was looking for, but it's good.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCQtuGfz3c8
One thing they don't cover is offset, in the video they don't pay much attention to exactly where the rim is sideways in relation to the hub. That should be in any decent workshop manual, and you should check it at the point the spokes are first "seated". If it's not right then tighten the spokes evenly on one side only until it's close. Then proceed as per the video.
You don't need the jig he's got, you can cobble up something similar, but it has to hold your axle firmly in place and stop the wheel drifting sideways on it at the same time. I've tried to do it with the axle held vertically in the vice, and it worked, but it's a lot easier like the video shows.
Can't overemphasis the lubrication and cleanliness, almost any grease will do but make sure it's on all of the spoke thread before you lace them up. Which means keep the bench clean, or you'll get shit all over the grease, which will make torquing them up completely random.
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon
Why do you even bring this up? Although I'd never considered it. But Japanese bikes predominately use 36 spokes. Kawasaki's were last to use 40 but probably changed over in early 70s.
So starting lacing the inner spokes in with different nipple offset to the outers. Then outers and I do them all up gently with the battery drill, increasing the torque setting. Saves a bunch of time and gets you in the ballpark super quick.
I just use a spacer and axle vertically in the vice to spin the wheel and adjust to get it true. Then "ting" every one and tighten dull ones and recheck.
Then, if i dont have before measurements, I put it on the bike and centralise the front in the forks. You loosen every 2nd spoke 1 turn( all on the side you want to move away from), and tighten every other (on the side you want to move to). You can move the whole rim a little bit every rotation.
Generally the rear is same procedure on most Jap bikes but check with a straight edge to the front accounting for width and you'll be fine. Bearing in mind he isn't working on a Norton for the smartarses.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
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