New rings should be a given. It's apart, if the bore is in spec a very mild hone and new rings. Ready to roll.
Forum whore
New rings should be a given. It's apart, if the bore is in spec a very mild hone and new rings. Ready to roll.
Learning
Athena's valve seals are basically Ducati OEM - as in I think they're the supplier. Damn. Looks like I'll have to clean up a cylinder head and then go see a seal import house to see what they can do for me.
Learning
Nikasil bore, never re-hone.Originally Posted by AllanB
I didn't re-ring last time because I was quoted $400 per piston for the rings by the local dealer. Stein Dinse have them for Euro 75, so yeah, re-ring time.
Forum whore
Ah good point - I must be getting old, keep forgetting about the fancy pants coatings now. Hmm So begs the question - is there anyone in NZ who can recoat bores or is it a replacement barrel when it's past service.
In the riders seat
NZ cylinders in Ashvegas, I had my MHR cylinders done there, they can actually hone them but need a special wanky hone
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."
Bored Room
Yeah those new fangled nikasil coatings that came out on BMW's only 35 years ago.
You need the correct rings for them too.
DeMyer's Laws - an argument that consists primarily of rambling quotes isn't worth bothering with.
Learning
Next bit of progress - combustion chambers cleaned. I used straight turpentine, the knife from before, 2000-grit wet & dry for inside the chambers, 180 grit for rough dusting in ports, and a plastic dish brush. About an hour per head, wearing normal dishwash gloves. I plugged all oil feeds and the valve guides with earplugs first, don't want gritty bits of carbon in the valvetrain if I can help it.
It's probably no match for whatever the professionals have in a dunk tank but the turps did seem to work.
Learning
Valves cleaned. 48-hour soak in turps, knife for scraping, 280-grit wet'n'dry for finishing. The carbon had softened up nicely if it wasn't burned on.
Turns out that the exhaust valve has a stepped diameter, the inlet doesn't. Valve sealing surfaces aren't perfect but there are no massive defects.
Learning
Finally got around to stripping the frame completely. I ended up having to sit it on a ladder to get the front end taken apart and removed - possible to wheel it into place since a mate showed up and helped, I would have struggled on my own. The new head bearings I put in last time, about three years ago, are starting to show the first signs of wear - cleaning and regreasing should be an every winter thing, I guess.
Learning
Cylinder head studs: Been doing some reading and am in two minds about changing them out.
The back story is that Ducati OEM head studs were dodgy up till '93, when there was a revision. The revision wasn't 100% successful and in 1995 the studs were revised again. This improved things but the wisdom is that bikes ridden hard, hi-comp'd - or toured - need head studs to be upgraded. First studs apparently had M stamped on their visible ends and were bright finished, second studs were bright finished with no stamp, and the final OEM revision was black finish.
Ca Cycleworks have specials from APE: https://ca-cycleworks.com/cs900d ($13 USD x 8)
Nicholson have head studs: http://www.nicholssportbikes.com/pro...NCYLSTUDS.html ($280 / set)
Users on Ducati.ms have said that the APE studs are perhaps a little loose in the threads but either is an improvement over OEM.
Now, here's why I'm in two minds: the originals were threadlocked in. Bearing in mind that only people who this happens to will mention it, there are horror stories out there of studs snapping off at or even inside engine cases. The stud steel has been hardened. If this happens, it's got to be drilled out with armoured bits, that drilling has to be on-center and in line... one savvy user made up a steel adaptor plate and used a magnetic base drill:
http://www.ducatitech.com/info/cyl_stud.html
The wisdom for preventing 'the snap' is penetrating oil for at least 24 hours prior, then a propane torch onto the engine cases to soften the threadlock. Then lots of back and forth while unscrewing to try to prevent bindups.
So for me it's about 50-50: a stud breaking on the road would be pretty shit. Having a stud break while trying to extract would also be pretty shit. Have to sleep on this.
Learning
Had a look at options for reinforcing the frame, too. My preferred choice would be to complete the triangle at the top front. The problem is that the stock airbox occupies the space that the new frame tube would cross.
I photographed the airbox in the bare frame (see attached), it's a surprise to see how steeply angled it is. Anyone out there ever had a go at making their own airbox?
Forum whore
dunno if anyone has responded to your powder coating question but i got a battery box and something else of my 89 r 100 gs powder coated at a place on port road right next to Howard Material Handling.Seemed a good job but they have a minimum charge so make it worthwhile!Make sure you mask any bits you dont want coated because they may not.
edit looks like 51 port road.No special recomendation i think i was doing something With Byron at HMH and saw the sign.
In the riders seat
I would be trying spark erosion if that happened
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."
Learning
Cool, thanks - I'll give them a try then.
BTW Howard Material Handling are awesome. If you're after lifting gear, it's the first place I'd go.
Learning
Of course!!
Absolutely right, it should be a doddle for any half-competent shop.
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