Buying my first car

[The End]

After 8+ years of having a motorcycle as my only form of transport, things have changed and I now require a car... (keeping the bike though)

I've been looking on Trademe for a couple of weeks but am not entirely sure what I am looking for.

My criteria:

$3-6k ($5 and a bag of chips won't do, sorry Akzle)
Automatic
Not CVT
Not Cambelt


I've been told by some trusted individuals to stay away from early model and/or high KM CVT transmissions - the early models were prone to failure and are best avoided. But it seems like nearly every bloody car in my price range is CVT


Any suggestions are appreciated

[Berries]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used...1080385914.htm

[Madness]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used...1082593489.htm

[bogan]

Usually a good lot of E36 BMWs to fit that bill.

Just steer clear of the Jatcos (JDM)

[Virago]

Can you stretch your budget a little further? If you're prepared to be patient and keep your eye on Turners, it's possible to pick up a really good quality ex-lease car, well maintained. I picked up a four year old Falcon for myself for $8,000 - it took me over six months of watching and waiting though.

[Gremlin]

Is the Honda Jazz CVT or cambelt? I have no idea, but a mate has one. I figure a hatch or wagon is the most practical vehicle (besides vans or utes) otherwise you may as well have a bike for all the luggage space and practicality you get.

The Jazz is more economical than his CB919 (obviously not driven/ridden exactly the same)... drives nicely, he's quite happy with it.

[Grumph]

Some observations based on a lifetime of deep cynicism...
The car is for practicality, the bike is for fun so the criteria for the car are usage based.
What do you want to carry/tow ?
yes, autos are better if you're in stop-go traffic, yes camchains last longer.
Stay away from exotic brands - which in NZ means anything Euro - even if the source is now non euro, ie made in China etc...
the reasoning here is parts prices which can be shocking for anything outside mainstream makers.
I've even got my doubts on some Jap brands. I'd never have a mazda, Honda or Mitubishi - just personal preference based on what mates in the trade tell me.

So IMO it comes down to Toyota or Nissan as offering the best choice of secondhands. Both do models using camchains, sometimes different motors in the same shell will have different cam drives. Ask and look for yourself.

And before you ask, currently driving a Nissan avenir, jap market light commercial wagon 1500 auto with about 250000k on it, picked up for $500....2nd owner in NZ.

[AllanB]

One of the import Hondas has a dud CVT transmission.

I had been looking for my daughter recently.


Ended up with a 1999 Toyota Corolla (NZ) with 138,000 on the clock. Private sale.

Engine had a service history and is a minter, nice interior once I'd groomed it. Paint came up well with some physical effort. Reckon after I'd tidied it up I could have easily sold it for another grand. But she loves it so won't let me.


4 speed auto, twin cam 1.8 engine. Easy to do your own oil and filters etc. ABS brakes, airbags. They also made a 1.6 version.

These motors are well known for doing high kms (300-400,000) provided routine maintenance is done. Cambelt, waterpump needs replacing every 100,000.

[Akzle]

well maintained cvt boxes will do well, the nissan in the 3.5 primeras, ie, but they need lots of expensive oil, regularly.

I also advise against autos.

Depends if you mind a beater or not, cruise otara and pick something off someones front lawn.

Cam chain/gears is a bit limiting.

How would ya like a low km magna wagon, manual? Tows like a motherfucker.

[Akzle]

also could get you dibs on an older, less-clean-than-allans (but tidy) rolla 4dr sedan auto. Similar price.

[The End]

Is the Honda Jazz CVT or cambelt? I have no idea, but a mate has one. I figure a hatch or wagon is the most practical vehicle (besides vans or utes) otherwise you may as well have a bike for all the luggage space and practicality you get.

The Jazz is more economical than his CB919 (obviously not driven/ridden exactly the same)... drives nicely, he's quite happy with it.

Initially started looking at getting the Jazz (Also known as Fit) however after taking two for a test drive and experiencing a very noticeable shudder from 0km/h to 5km/h when accelerating in both cars, it's put me off them due to the CVT. Both of these were <45,000kms too...

[SVboy]

well maintained cvt boxes will do well, the nissan in the 3.5 primeras, ie, but they need lots of expensive oil, regularly.

I also advise against autos.

Depends if you mind a beater or not, cruise otara and pick something off someones front lawn.

Cam chain/gears is a bit limiting.

How would ya like a low km magna wagon, manual? Tows like a motherfucker.

Worse advice since Axle's Mum said "I'm on the blob, you wont need protection....."
AllanB's advice on Corollas-the way to go.

[OddDuck]

Not all cambelt engines are interference, if that's what's putting you off - yeah, if the belt goes you'll be stranded and need a tow, but it won't bend valves / crack cylinder head / etc. Unfortunately you'll have to check model by model, some are non-interference, most are though.

+1 on avoid European - they've got a real problem with fussy, modular, non-repairable components. Very expensive to sort if anything goes wrong.

If you have the space to work in (i.e. double car garage, uninterrupted bay) and the inclination, it might be worth taking both front wings off. Yeah, it's a hassle, but chances are that you'll find a compost heap in there, trapping water and rotting the car chassis out with rust.

[Maha]

Worse advice since Axle's Mum said "I'm on the blob, you wont need protection....."
AllanB's advice on Corollas-the way to go.

...and yet many a home less bum still went there...their DNA transfer would explain a lot.

[caspernz]

As per the OPs criteria, had the same situation a couple of years ago. My list was simple, small, manual, NZ new and I'd prefer newer with high kms instead of other way around. Hyundai Getz is what I ended up with. Cheaper to run overall than my Busa, but not exactly swift of course. Manuals are not always easy to find, so I searched a little. If you've got a bit of time to learn and look around, it'll pay off in the long run.