One of the guys on a forum was mentioning he wished there were more reviews. I figured that since I’d recently seen the 100,000km milestone flick over on my BMW, that it might be time for a review. Be warned it ended up very wordy (and took over a year of procrastination to complete).
Now technically, I purchased it January 2011, as an ex-demo with 4000km on the clock (I put the 4000th on during the test ride). I was looking for a 2010+ due to the changes made for the 2010 year, and besides brand new, this demo was the only one available country wide. New was just a bit of a stretch too far, and after the bath I took on my previous KTM, I was trying to avoid new.
Proof it was once so clean, so shiny. So unmolested.
Currently the BMW (affectionately nicknamed as Jessica – yes I’m imaginative – G-S-A) has 118,000km on the clock, so that must be pretty long term?
I chose the GS Adventure because I truly wanted all the extras the Adventure had over a standard GS, things like the larger fuel tank, lower first gear, greater ground clearance, bigger screen, luggage and racks… the whole lot. In the previous two years I’d sold the sportsbike, gone supermoto, and now adventuring, so I wanted a road touring capable bike that could also explore the road rarely travelled. The GSA is like the top range swiss army knife complete with magnifying glass. It’s massive and has everything you could need.
One of the first things I learnt… Even at 6’3, I now had to watch how I parked. Now those more vertically challenged might be scoffing, but I never had to think about this with any other bike. I could sit on them and back them up a hill no problem… but not the GSA. More than once I chose to mount the kerb in front (adventure bikes are awesome eh?) rather than try and push it backwards. More than 5 years on, I’m still caught out occasionally when moving it around.
I quickly became a BMW owner… 6 packages of farkles were ordered from overseas – coz I “needed” them. Indeed, the dealer fitted accessories I removed from the KTM before I even collected it. I also quickly set about rectifying the poor mileage putting on 6000km in 1.5 months. By September the odometer was reading 30k, thanks mostly to a 15k trip around USA and Canada. After one year I’d done 36k. Not bad considering it was all pleasure, as another bike was used for commuting.
2012 was the year I got more into adventure riding, joining an adventure riding club, gaining more adventure riding skills and exploring the back country. Someone I knew once said he reckoned the best two thirds of NZ was off the sealed roads and I started to realise he may well be right. With the help of a couple of adventure riding websites, routes were learnt and then ridden, rivers crossed and all possible with a simple tyre change. Riding knobblies on the road was another new experience, especially when the bike weighs quarter of a ton.
Nice to have one pic that makes me look like a pro.
It’s important to note that this is no light weight dirt bike to tackle the toughest terrain by yourself. You bring a friend, preferably one equally as crazy as you, so you do the stupid stuff and then have a hand to get it upright again. When you’re in the middle of nowhere with it on its side and it’s not coming up… you envisage someone coming across your bones in a few days time… Full of fuel and it’s a beast, holding 30-40kg up high on the bike and I generally try to approach adventure sections with less than a full tank. However, you can at least ride this one down the country without needing your arse replaced every day and also spend all day away from civilisation exploring back roads without gasping for gas every hour or two.
By the end of 2012, thanks to some long distance endurance riding and a few road trips, the odometer was up to 65k.
At the beginning of 2013 my now annual trip to the South Island for the TT2000 saw a mate and I finally tick off some of the great passes after the event in a week long adventure riding, doing Hakataramea and Danseys Pass, Old Dunstan, Nevis and Skippers.
After that trip adventure riding become less of a priority as event riding became the new experience. Providing motorcycle support to the likes of marathons, triathlons and other cycling events was a new test of skill, either being chased at speed down hills or crawling up hills. Once again, the GSA was an excellent choice, the low first gear making slow speed work much easier, the wide bars providing excellent leverage so I didn’t run over too many road cones and the dual purpose setup was the platform of choice for event riding.
The turning lock on the GS and GSA is the best I’ve come across. We won’t even mention the couple of degrees sportsbikes can turn, the Hornet CB919 is pretty good and I turn it at full lock regularly. The GSA (with a steering stop which actually reduces the lock a little) is so good it’s actually tricky to get over to full lock with consistency (partly because of how far away the handlebar grip is from you as well). However, when you’re on a course laid out for runners and you’re stupid enough (or locked into the course), the bike manoeuvrability saves you – and several kerbs have been dropped off over the years.
I passed my advanced test for IAM, making me a full member and starting the next phase, to become an Observer and return the time and effort invested in me, to help others improve their riding.
Unfortunately, 2013 was also the year my boss took 6-7 months off to ride Europe (yeah, it’s a hard life aye) so being the only person in the southern hemisphere to know certain things I balanced the risk and decided to curtail my riding simply to reduce my risk exposure while he was on the other side of the world… At the end of the year I’d only done 18k and the odometer was at 83k.
2014 was the first year with no new paths, just continuing with event riding and IAM (I passed my Observer test and now had my own associates). A few road trips but life also got in the way and by the end of the year I was tantalising close with the odometer at 97k. I didn’t even get down to the South Island, first TT2000 I’d missed for several years.
2015 and I finally cracked the 100k mark in Palmerston North while down for the annual New Zealand Cycle Classic but again didn’t make the TT2000. When collecting the BMW from the 100k service, I finally got the news I knew I would receive at some point, the news that most BMW owners dread… my shaft drive had developed some play, necessitating further work. A mate had his replaced at a cost of $2500 (but he did get a 2 year warranty on it) but mine was quoted as a rebuild, quote was $1800. The lack of chain and sprocket replacement and associated maintenance was something I’d loved throughout ownership (especially adventure riding) but knew it came at a cost.
It was the best news I’d had in some time. The final bill for rebuild came in at $830. In contrast my boss had recently received a quote for replacement chain and sprockets for his Multistrada for $850. They apparently only last 20k. It’s not often you can claim the BMW is cheap to run, but I reminded him frequently knowing it wouldn’t last too long…
I also tested the electrical capacity, not something most owners really do. The GSAs sport a 720W alternator (second only to the Triumph Explorer at 900W) when most bikes have 350-400W alternators – even the new GSA has a 510W. For Ironman 70.3 Auckland I had a rather expensive unit on the rear that fed the camera footage live to air for broadcast around the world. This needed power from the bike apparently drawing 14A, no small accessory. My mates KTM 1190R couldn’t charge it at idle but could when under way. The GSA had no problem at idle…
The start of 2016 involved multiple trips around the country, first down in the South Island exploring various adventure routes (yes, alone) and then in Kinloch, New Plymouth and Taupo for sporting events. Change the odd pieces and it goes from capable adventure bike to stable platform for close quarters riding with cyclists.
I don’t have a figure for total cost of maintenance over the years, and frankly, I don’t want to know. Following a thread on KB I did add up that approximately the servicing and accessories have roughly equalled the bike – told you I didn’t want to know. Friends have asked my advice on owning a BMW (one recently bought one) and I’m honest. It’s not the cheapest bike to own, buy a UJM if you want that. For me, it’s perfect for the variety of things I do, and if you buy one, simply go into it with your eyes open, and know what you’re in for.
There have been issues along the way. I also have the uncanny ability to break stuff no-one else seems to break. It’s common indeed to receive the line “I have no idea how it happened, no-one else has had this issue” from dealers.
I’m on my fifth set of front brake discs. The OEM set developed a variation in thickness around 40k, picked up on the 50k service when I asked the shop to investigate. Tried for a BMW goodwill warranty (it was slightly outside the two year) but declined. The prohibitive cost for replacement discs meant I delayed action until it got really bad and affecting my slow speed handling by 80k. I then investigated other options. An outfit Hastings way sent discs that claimed to fit but didn’t, so they were returned. A Metal Gear set varied in thickness within 10k and were returned under warranty. A more expensive Metal Gear option didn’t fit (again claimed to fit). A replacement set of Metal Gear but with different pads has so far been working out. I’m hoping it does as I don’t want to fork out for BMW ones with no guarantee they’ll work.
Brake pads were also fun. After spending $660 on the first replacement set all-round the dealer was on standing orders to source some good quality alternatives as BMW prices were laughable.
The tyre pressure monitoring system has been awesome, but the rear sensor has failed in the last 2k ish. I still dread to know the price of a replacement.
Around 50-60k I realised my electronic suspension was no longer performing like it used to. Once again, another lesson in how BMW does things differently. There is no servicing interval like most suspension, rather, you purchase a new set… and then do the same again as required. After speaking to Robert Taylor, a set of Mechatronic Ohlins (with TTX shocks) would cost less than a set of BMW suspension… easy choice. The long term cost difference was obviously dramatic. Servicing every 30k as opposed to buying replacements every 60k, not to mention the massive improvement in handling made it no contest.
On the reliability front (and we’ve all heard the stories about exotic European bikes) it has let me down once. It simply refused to start after working on some accessories but fortunately it was at home so I could easily transport it to the dealer. However, when they had a chance to look at it a few days later… it started fine. It’s not exactly re-assuring if it happens mid-tour.
On the flip side, thanks mostly to adventure riding, it’s been on both sides so many times I’ve lost count (even in rivers for some added variation). On a side note, don’t believe anyone that says because of the boxer engine it can’t lie fully flat… I have the pictures. The crash guards (and extra aftermarket ones) bear many scars but it’s always started up again once righted. The only thing properly damaged was myself during a sandy session, when somehow my pants rode up past the boots when I inevitably bailed in the sand, and ended up with a 2nd degree burn on my leg that kept me off my feet for 2 weeks.
Over the 120k fuel consumption has typically been about 5.5L/100km. With the right tyres, smooth roads and a gentle hand I can achieve high 4’s even with the boxy luggage and profile akin to a brick wall but as soon as you’re opening the throttle constantly on winding roads consumption starts to climb. However, with the monster tank taking around 36-38L (factory spec says 33L, no idea why I’m getting more as I haven’t changed anything), typical range is at least 600km, and I’ve had 750km once, into reserve with at least a litre remaining.
It’s probably a little pointless given that a new shiny model was released two years ago, but here’s my take on improvements BMW could have done. The OEM bash plate (let’s call it a serving platter as it wasn’t much use for anything else) was ridiculous. Too small to properly protect anything, BMW messed up on this note. They even offer a large bash plate that is much better (and now resides on my bike after I dented the OEM one during the USA trip). This should have been fitted stock.
Headlamp. Germans outsourced the headlamp unit to the Italians. This makes no sense (Italian electrics anyone?). When a high load toggle in mine failed (a common enough fault) the brand new replacement in careful packaging was broken in the exact same way. The next poorly packaged headlamp was fine. I’ve never used that toggle since. The bike also has a reputation for eating headlight bulbs, but I’ve run an HID low beam since almost the beginning and it’s never been a problem.
Battery. Like a modern car with lots of electrics, the BMW wants battery voltage in a tight bracket otherwise you can walk. The bike has a reputation for starting one day fine, then no chance the next day (even mid trip). It even has a load reduction circuit for starting due to everything going on. As a precaution I replaced the battery in 2011 and 2012. The first battery in 2011 was a Shorai and while the correct model at the time, caused all sorts of issues and back to stock I went. In 2012 I tried a bigger model Shorai with better results and remains in the bike today (no, I have no interest in starting debate like that thread again). Starting is more sluggish and the battery basically needs to be warmed first (or a few false attempts). Either switch on the bike (my low beam doesn’t come on until the bike is running) for a while or try to start a few times. The colder it is, the worse it is, but the bike will start (while everyone looks at you pitifully). In sub-zero temperatures parked outside it’s going to be very unhappy for a few minutes (as proved during one mid-winter multi day ride when the bikes had frost over them).
Actually, make it electrics in general. I have a BMW accessory switch block with two switches. I needed one to tidy up my extra lights, and while it cost a fortune it does look good. The dealer had to order 4 switches before they got 2 that worked. On a similar note, since purchasing into the BMW experience the Beckhaus family (of Aprilia, Triumph, MV et al fame) has taken over the supply chain with predictable results and now time to fulfil an order depends on where it comes from although it’s not as bad as Triumph or Aprilia owners report.
While the onboard computer provides a ranging function, and I’m thankful my fuel strip continues to work (while plenty don’t), the ranging, while consistent, has been inaccurate since the beginning. Somewhere between 100 and 200km remaining, it gets enthusiastic, wiping out my range eagerly, only to start counting up when it hits 70-80km to around 120km, then it counts down again and this time it’s accurate. I’ve heard reports from some that with 0 range left you still have more to go, but I haven’t been keen to test this too much (I’ve been down to 8km remaining), primarily because I don’t want to push it, and also because my mates will never let me live down running a fuel tanker out of fuel… The only problem with ranging is that you work to 0, not reserve and I have no idea why I keep doing this…
Final drive seal. Apparently I’m an odd one out (yeah, that’s nothing new) but the final drive outer seal on the shaft drive has been replaced on my bike about 5 times. Some never have it replaced in the same distance I’ve done. With the final drive oil leaking out, it’s not an immediate show stopper, but nor do you start a trip with it leaking. Must be special me…
Necessary modifications for the bike is a subjective list and my list is too long to bore you with (if you’re even still reading this). Since mine is used for adventuring, definitely protection. Proper bash plate, some crash guards, and from my experience, even protection between you and the bike (so stopping things like the headers burning you). Comfort is always important, but I feel the Europeans have got this sorted better than most. The front seat is height adjustable and I’ve never felt the need to modify or replace. Pillions have commented how comfortable the seat is. I’ve only used the OEM luggage, finding it totally satisfactory for my needs, strong enough to live under the bike when it’s on its side and waterproof enough to keep my stuff dry. I do have a small deflector on the top of the screen (the GSA has a taller screen than the GS) otherwise it’s a little short for 6’3 blokes.
Ok, truth be told, the bike ends up looking like this quite regularly.
Besides the 6-7 week tour of the USA and Canada there have been other long trips, like 1850km in 25.5 hours (involved gravel riding) and numerous rides like Grand Challenges, TT2000s and a couple of Capital Cruises.
I remain fully aware that expensive things are likely to break – and as the bike gets older this becomes increasingly possible - but I live in hope they don’t. A friend’s ABS module failed in a different BMW… $4500 for a replacement unit. Perhaps mine can be rebuilt if it fails… After all, as the electronic components in bikes increase, all brands are in the same basket.
Re-reading the review, I’m interested to see I’m mainly focussing on how flexible it is with so many purposes rather than performance. For most reviews this is the single most important factor, and perhaps why most buy a bike?
First, I never bought the bike for performance. I’d been there, done that with sportbikes, had the tickets and didn’t want it. The boxer makes around 110-115HP with a pretty flat torque curve. The 2010+ does have the HP2 go fast bits meaning it continues to make more power at higher revs compared to the older model, but it isn’t really why you buy the bike. The power is satisfactory, and indeed, more power I feel would simply decrease tyre life. It has enough to get past a line of cars, but with a full load of luggage and throttle to the stop the GPS said 196kph and it wouldn’t go any quicker. I’ve resisted riding the new wethead, but mates that have ridden both say the wethead definitely has a stronger engine. On gravel and rougher stuff that power is more than enough and combined with weight can be a real handful.
Braking, as per my review, I’ve had issues with discs, but is otherwise strong. The telelever front end resists the front diving under braking which keeps the bike more composed. The brakes are strong and braking hard will unload the rear enough to let the rear ABS intervene. ABS can be adjusted on the fly between On and Off on the fly, newer models have more sophisticated options like only disabling the rear. Easiest way to test ABS is on loose gravel braking from higher speeds and you can feel the front and rear engaging.
Handling is one of my favourites. As mentioned it gets an extensive workout at low speed and besides all the fuel on top, the weight is kept low. The wide bars (about 950mm) give good leverage but for smaller riders the cockpit may feel too large. I haven’t fitted bar risers but this is still under consideration. At higher speed the electronic suspension is brilliant but this will partly be due to Ohlins. Choose between preload options of 1up, 2up and 1up with luggage and light or heavy off-seal riding when stationary, then on the move between soft, medium and hard suspension depending on your pace. I’ll usually only pick soft when returning home on the expressway or motorway (nice and floaty), medium for most riding and hard when picking up the pace. The beauty of Ohlins was apparent last service explaining some issues and he could modify the suspension for my needs.
Handling is still affected by the weight and it’s no lightweight when fully fuelled as it’s comfortably past 250kg and heading towards 270kg ish (adding all the accessories means I don’t know the exact weight now). However, deduct the fuel weight and it’s actually pretty light for a big bike when you compare to tourers like the ST1300, Concours 14 etc that all tip the scales around 300kg. The main time you notice the weight is tipping it over too far (eg turning around) with too much fuel on board. It does quickly reach a point where it’s easier to let it go over and then pick it up again The Ohlins (plus modifications from standard) have resulted in stiffer suspension so it’s not the soft couch it once was, but still has enough compliance for our rough roads. The current stance is certainly more on the sporty side.
Over the last two years I’ve found myself looking at other bikes and I’m not even sure why. I put it down to the fact that the longest I’d owned a bike was 27 months (the KTM). I’ve owned the GSA for 65 months and counting. Every time I consider a bike and assess it against my needs, the GSA keeps winning. I finally concluded late last year that I truly love the GSA and will continue to run her as long as it’s economically viable. If that tipping point is reached, then the current plan is to source another of the same model and transfer all the accessories!
So in summation, the bike is not without its pitfalls, but I wouldn’t change her for anything!
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