Pink Batts vs Insulation blanket material

[Ocean1]

Them's the regs. Downlights need a gap OR a tin-can covering it.

Wanted to replace the downlight fittings in the new place. Climbed up and had a look around and found most fittings didn't comply with the "50mm from timber" rule. Dunno if that was the rule when it was built a dozen years ago, but at least a couple of the fittings are actually cut into the rafter ties.

Can't install new fittings in the current locations because that won't comply, but I really don't want to fill the existing holes and cut new ones...

Think I'll just leave the existing fittings, use remote powered LEDs and be done with it.

[eldog]

leave the existing fittings, use remote powered LEDs

Remote powered LEDs?

[Ocean1]

Remote powered LEDs?

Didn't make much sense did it?

What I meant was that the choice seemed to be to either replace the existing fittings with LED fittings with remote power source, (means the heat source is a couple of feet away from the fitting which you can hang from a rafter above the light) or keep the existing fittings and just use integrated LED bulbs, (power source built in) in the existing fittings.

Remote powered LED fitting is a better option, but as a new install it wouldn't meet current reg's. And I'm not sure if you get to insulate over the remote powered light fitting anyway.

[eldog]

Didn't make much sense did it?

What I meant was that the choice seemed to be to either replace the existing fittings with LED fittings with remote power source, (means the heat source is a couple of feet away from the fitting which you can hang from a rafter above the light) or keep the existing fittings and just use integrated LED bulbs, (power source built in) in the existing fittings.

Remote powered LED fitting is a better option, but as a new install it wouldn't meet current reg's. And I'm not sure if you get to insulate over the remote powered light fitting anyway.

Food of thought.....

[russd7]

Food of thought.....

friend has an LED camping light with a remote control.

unfortunately i have attended a house fire caused by LED down light, luckily the house owner had enough for thought to poke the fitting up and let a couple of fire extinguishers go in the ceiling space.

[eldog]

friend has an LED camping light with a remote control.

unfortunately i have attended a house fire caused by LED down light, luckily the house owner had enough for thought to poke the fitting up and let a couple of fire extinguishers go in the ceiling space.

Could buy a dozen camp LED lights and hang them from the ceiling.

Sounds serious that fire could have been far worse.

Thats why I would only be looking at brand name LED as a source and ones that meet the standard. Most likely Philips they have a European standard to meet too which I hope is more stringent than the NZ one.

The insulation guy actually pointed out to me that I would need to upgrade the lighting to get the real benefit of the insulation. Otherwise it would be just pissing in the wind. He was also impressed that I was looking at insulating the garage without being prompted.

[russd7]

Could buy a dozen camp LED lights and hang them from the ceiling.

Sounds serious that fire could have been far worse.

Thats why I would only be looking at brand name LED as a source and ones that meet the standard. Most likely Philips they have a European standard to meet too which I hope is more stringent than the NZ one.

The insulation guy actually pointed out to me that I would need to upgrade the lighting to get the real benefit of the insulation. Otherwise it would be just pissing in the wind. He was also impressed that I was looking at insulating the garage without being prompted.

it was a few year ago and brand name but early ones. but very surprizing how much heat comes from the transformers

[eldog]

Initially was surprised with the amount of heat generated by LED lights.

could mount light in downlights and if it has a transformer(power source) attach to a rafter(hang it if that's a better option for fire etc) and mount a power point so it can be unplugged or tested elsewhere.

[russd7]

Initially was surprised with the amount of heat generated by LED lights.

could mount light in downlights and if it has a transformer(power source) attach to a rafter(hang it if that's a better option for fire etc) and mount a power point so it can be unplugged or tested elsewhere.

talk to ya sparky, they should know what is required.

[Akzle]

most halo downlights will have a transformer. except the 240vac gu10s, which are colossally inefficient.
LEDs require a (usually) 12v transformer/driver. sometimes the transformer is remote from the driver, others no.

at any rate. dont be a pussy. put in chandaliérs.

[eldog]

most halo downlights will have a transformer. except the 240vac gu10s, which are colossally inefficient.
LEDs require a (usually) 12v transformer/driver. sometimes the transformer is remote from the driver, others no.

at any rate. dont be a pussy. put in chandaliérs.

Current ones are 240 vac ones, originally with 100 w bulbs, now with 75 w energy ones. Slow start/warm up ok in the middle of the night

[jellywrestler]

Wanted to replace the downlight fittings in the new place. Climbed up and had a look around and found most fittings didn't comply with the "50mm from timber" rule. Dunno if that was the rule when it was built a dozen years ago, but at least a couple of the fittings are actually cut into the rafter ties.

Can't install new fittings in the current locations because that won't comply, but I really don't want to fill the existing holes and cut new ones...

Think I'll just leave the existing fittings, use remote powered LEDs and be done with it.

poppy cock, there was never a 50mm rule for downlights, there are some whose manufacturers instructions now state 50mm (scb rating) but more and more they are become 0 SCB and HCB which means they can be installed right in timber i install d/l's often as i'm a sparky, pm me as to what to look for

[jellywrestler]

. And I'm not sure if you get to insulate over the remote powered light fitting anyway.

most of them require the power supply box to be above the insulation, i just punch a hole through and thread it up to it, then it closes back on itself

[jellywrestler]

Most likely Philips they have a European standard to meet too which I hope is more stringent than the NZ one.

.

been a sparky for 37 years, used to rely on philips as a reputable brand, now i actively stay well clear of anything especially their light bulbs.....
as a self employed sparky i had too many failures of their shit that cost me money

[BMWST?]

I have been looking at Sellwood? attic stairs
trouble is switchboard is in the garage
not much room above it 3-4 feet IIRC (look again in the weekend)
the main part of the house theres more than 6ft in the centre its a 30 degree roof into a 12.5 degree roof at the edge (I know I measured it for the spouting replacement calc for down pipes)

I could put a set in the hallway, next to the rafter division to the garage.....

I am open to any suggestions(keep it clean you KBers)

I ask the heat pump salespeople to suggest systems.
I want to be able to:
switch off rooms
different temps/air flow
have some ability to circulate air (un heated/cooled) to keep the air moving at set periods of the day - say 1 minute every 1/2 hour
would like to bring in some outside fresh air 5-10% (I don't know what the international std is for this but I can find out)
Is it possible/worth it to use a heat transfer system to 'heat/cool' the exhaust/fresh air

maybe now that I have made a list I should go back to the heat pump salesman and get him to relook at what he proposes

I don't have any experience in heat/cooling but the info from KB is great

what you are asking for is a whole lot more than a heat pump.A heat pump is just a airconditioning unit that can heat or cool.It heats or cools the air around it.EDIT.
you can run an indor unit just as a fan to move the air around,and you can use them as a dehumidifier only ,but they dehumidify anyway.
You can have one large outdoor unit with several indoor units,but you wont get a good price because all the sales volume is in matched pair units.You could have a single central unit in the ceiling with ducts to different areas and a couple of return ducts,i dont know how much control each room would have.
A seperate ventilation system will provide you with air changes,fresh air etc(can have a "switched" supply ie roof space air or outsie air) ,and your improved insulation will help with the heat build up in summer,and or make it more efficient to use the heat pumps to cool the place down.