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Thread: Hayabusa Mk. II ignition switch replacement questions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    26th May 2015 - 21:48
    Bike
    2015 GSX1300R Hayabusa
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    273

    Hayabusa Mk. II ignition switch replacement questions

    Hi guys

    I have a Hayabusa E-03 question. The E-03 is the version without the immobiliser (USA market).

    The ignition barrel was smashed by some fuckwit that didn't notice that the bike was chained up.

    The old ignition barrel has 6 wires - the replacement (from a wreckers) has 4.

    I've checked the wiring diagram (http://kaele.com/~kashima/car/busa/G...ng_Diagram.pdf) and one of the two extra wires go to the immobiliser pin on the ECU but just provide a "switch on" signal, rather than a coded immobiliser radio signal. The two extra wires are Bl and O/Y.

    The Bl wire connects to O further down the loom anyway. The O/Y wire goes to pin 21 on the ECU. When the switch is on, the diagram says that the two are connected.

    Can I get away with leaving these two connected all of the time or will the ECU loose its shit? Also, I assume these are "always on" when the switch is on and don't provide an impulse when turning the key?

    Help is much appreciated.

    Ordinarily, I'd test the old barrel with a multi-meter and see what does what when I turn the key but I can't get a key in the damn thing.

    Also really struggling to get the old barrel out.... I have the correct torx adaptor but getting access to the bolts is an utter bitch. Any ideas?


    And yes, just to double confirm - a USA spec Hayabusa does not have an immobiliser. Suzuki didn't believe me when I said it didn't but once they checked my VIN, they confirmed it didn't. Where the antennae would be is a piece of rubber.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    7th October 2011 - 20:01
    Bike
    bike sold :-(
    Location
    napier
    Posts
    406
    You might need to do some research on the secondary feeds to the ECU, some of the jap manufactures fit a zener diode to the secondary wires feeding the ECU. They do this so the output of the secondary wires is somewhere between 5 & 9 volts. This is to stop the bike being hot wired by just twisting the wires together. If the ECU gets a voltage feed to the secondary wires that is not correct it shuts down the ECU. You should be able to see the zener of you can get the switch apart.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    20th June 2011 - 20:27
    Bike
    Dog Rooter, 1290 SDR
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    Marton
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    9,851
    Isnt this why you have insurance?
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    26th May 2015 - 21:48
    Bike
    2015 GSX1300R Hayabusa
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    273
    Quote Originally Posted by nzspokes View Post
    Isnt this why you have insurance?
    I do.

    $500 excess instead of $200 for parts from a breakers.

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