No headlights

[swbarnett]

Got home today to find both of my headlights were out. Both high and low beam. All other electrical gizmos on the bike work just fine.

Fuses are fine (tried the spare and one of them in another hole). Bulbs are fine. I managed to get life into the lights by running a cable from the + side of the battery to light side fuse terminal. Obviously the problem is somewhere between the battery and the fuse box. I don't think I'm not getting any power to the light switch (although the indicators still work).

Could there be a problem with the ignition barrel? Is there anything else in there that could be at fault?

[caspernz]

Switch block is where I'd look next, at least by description of fault and diagnosis so far.

[mossy1200]

Lube any cables lately. I filled a switch block up once with aerosol cable lube and cable clamp tool by doing it at carb end.

[swbarnett]

Lube any cables lately. I filled a switch block up once with aerosol cable lube and cable clamp tool by doing it at carb end.

Haven't touched the cables for a while.

[oldiebutagoody]

Suzuki gsx600/750f fuse boxes are prone to failing. Some solutions I have read about are a complete replacement of the entire fuse box, or alternately continuing on with your wire from the positive terminal and doing a whole bypass, and install seperate headlight relays for high and low beam only using the light switch to operate the relays.

The above was/is a quite common fix for lighting issues on earlier GT/GS Suzukis. Bonus is you get REALLY good lighting to see by at night. I been meaning to do it myself on my own 600f. Ive only done the coil relay/rewire so far.

Another thing to check would be the headlight connector plug itself. Can go hard, crack and short out due to the heat caused by the inadequate gauge wiring used and current draw. Over the whole Suzuki loom, there can be as much as a 2 volt drop, meaning amperage has to increase to produce same wattage at the bulb, and we know increased Amperage (current) creates heat in thin gauge wiring or old hardened plugs/connectors..

Good luck, I have a PDF of what needs doing if you want it.

[swbarnett]

Suzuki gsx600/750f fuse boxes are prone to failing. Some solutions I have read about are a complete replacement of the entire fuse box, or alternately continuing on with your wire from the positive terminal and doing a whole bypass, and install seperate headlight relays for high and low beam only using the light switch to operate the relays.

The above was/is a quite common fix for lighting issues on earlier GT/GS Suzukis. Bonus is you get REALLY good lighting to see by at night. I been meaning to do it myself on my own 600f. Ive only done the coil relay/rewire so far.

Another thing to check would be the headlight connector plug itself. Can go hard, crack and short out due to the heat caused by the inadequate gauge wiring used and current draw. Over the whole Suzuki loom, there can be as much as a 2 volt drop, meaning amperage has to increase to produce same wattage at the bulb, and we know increased Amperage (current) creates heat in thin gauge wiring or old hardened plugs/connectors..

Good luck, I have a PDF of what needs doing if you want it.

Sounds like a very real possibility. I was looking at the wiring diagram and can't see how it could be the ignition switch as the same wire powers other lights that still work.

That PDF would be much appreciated. PM sent.

[oldiebutagoody]

sent.

it only covers rewiring lights away from the fuse box though. Basically wiring up a new sub loom with relay and own fuse.

cheers.

[Akzle]

git cher ass a multimieter and some learn.

[jellywrestler]

install seperate headlight relays for high and low beam only using the light switch to operate the relays.

is it a lights on all the time model, whether it is or not you could install one double pole relay with the feed to it, a signal from the light switch to the common, either high or low to operate the relay, not both and use the two poles to go to high and low, half the cost half the hassle

[swbarnett]

sent.

it only covers rewiring lights away from the fuse box though. Basically wiring up a new sub loom with relay and own fuse.

cheers.

Thanks.

Had a quick read this morning. Looks pretty much like what I've already done for my horn and USB charger.

The one thing that has me a little perplexed is that I don't seem to be getting power to the 'bar switch. If I'm not getting power to the headlight switch I won't be able to use it to control any relays.

The same switch block runs the indicators and they're working so there's obviously some power getting there. I may need to do some more rigorous testing tonight. I'll pull the switch out of the switch block so I can be sure of getting good contact.

[swbarnett]

git cher ass a multimieter and some learn.

Have the meter. Have a little bit of "learn", getting more slowly (wiring diagrams are confusing).

[swbarnett]

One more question - is the fuse box between the + of the battery and the 'bar switch? As I said - the wiring diagram is confusing.

[jellywrestler]

[QUOTE=swbarnett;1131006497


The same switch block runs the indicators and they're working so there's obviously some power getting there. [/QUOTE]

you can't live without your headlights at times so they're usually on a fused circuit on their own so when a sil;ly little indicator or horn fails it doesn't take the lights out, you need a wiring diagram and someone who can read it.

[swbarnett]

you can't live without your headlights at times so they're usually on a fused circuit on their own so when a sil;ly little indicator or horn fails it doesn't take the lights out,

That makes sense.

you need a wiring diagram and someone who can read it.

Indeed. I have the wiring diagram and as long as my eyes can follow the lines it makes some sense. I'll have a closer look at it tonight when I pull the switch block apart again.

[neels]

It is probably a different power feed for the indicators than for the headlights, as the indicator flasher unit is normally between the power supply and the handlebar switch.

I'd be starting with finding the connector for the switch block and check for fried contacts, if not that would have to resort to following the volts from one end to the other to see where they stop, a test lamp will give more definite results than a multimeter if there is a dodgy connection somewhere.