No headlights

**Hugo Nougo** · 12th October 2016, 10:25

I had a similar problem on a honda blackbird, after much head scratching it turned out to be the start button sticking on as the start system disconnects power to headlights while depressed, I had the fairings off and everything when i accidentally knocked the switch and lights came on, hope this helps, good luck.

**swbarnett** · 12th October 2016, 10:56

Originally Posted by neels

It is probably a different power feed for the indicators than for the headlights, as the indicator flasher unit is normally between the power supply and the handlebar switch.

I'd be starting with finding the connector for the switch block and check for fried contacts, if not that would have to resort to following the volts from one end to the other to see where they stop, a test lamp will give more definite results than a multimeter if there is a dodgy connection somewhere.

I've done some testing with a mutlimeter. I don't get any volatge at the light plug. I'll check the 'bar switch more thoroughly tonight.

**swbarnett** · 12th October 2016, 10:57

Originally Posted by Hugo Nougo

I had a similar problem on a honda blackbird, after much head scratching it turned out to be the start button sticking on as the start system disconnects power to headlights while depressed, I had the fairings off and everything when i accidentally knocked the switch and lights came on, hope this helps, good luck.

Interesting thought. Another thing to ckeck tonight.

**swbarnett** · 12th October 2016, 18:44

Just pulled the light switch block apart. As soon as I pulled the switch out of the block the lights started working. Not sure what yet but something in there is flaky. Probably contact I'm thinking. I'll have a good look at the wire attachment points - might me a loose wire.

**nzspokes** · 12th October 2016, 19:02

they were dim on Sunday.

**swbarnett** · 12th October 2016, 22:33

Pulled the switch apart. The contacts were very dirty and one side was badly corroded. Managed to clean it all up with a bit of 0000 steel wool I had lying around.

**swbarnett** · 12th October 2016, 22:35

Originally Posted by nzspokes

they were dim on Sunday.

Doesn't surprise me. Haven't been out after dark for a few weeks. Only noticed it this time because I was late home from work.

They werer fine last week when I did my weekly check. Must've been right on the cusp.

**oldiebutagoody** · 12th October 2016, 22:52

10 characters

**swbarnett** · 15th October 2016, 17:19

Went out on Thursday night. The headlights were fine. Went to start the bike on Friday morning and nothing.

Split the switch open again last night and found no current getting to it. Did some continuity testing and found both high and low beam fine from switch to fuse. Also, Harness plug to switch was fine. Obviously something loose or broken in the harness past the plug.

Had a think and decided to put a relay in to supply power to the switch. Then it dawned on me that I already have a relay in for a USB charger under the seat. This morning I ran a new wire from there to the switch power line and voila, I now have lights again. Don't know exactly were the break is. It'd be a nightmare to find and the relay works so I'm happy.

PS: Timing worked out brilliantly. Bike's due for a minor service next weekend so, while I have everything off (fairing, tank etc.) I did it today. Now I have labout weekend completely free with a bike that works.

**oldiebutagoody** · 15th October 2016, 22:09

Thanks for relaying that update to us.

**swbarnett** · 16th October 2016, 19:52

Originally Posted by oldiebutagoody

Thanks for relaying that update to us.

No worries. Least I can do for the help I've had. If nothing else it got me thinking along the right lines.

More than 24 hours now and they're still working...

**oldiebutagoody** · 17th October 2016, 08:43

I'd still check the overall voltage drop at the light bulb connector plug. If its a couple volts lower than 12v it will be drawing higher Amperage/current through the handlebar switch, which will accelerate deterioration in those contacts. If the voltage drop is not attended to, the problem will return at some point.

Re-routing higher voltage to the switch, and then subsequently on to the bulb will provide the higher voltage and lower current supply required to operate as it did when new. It is however still the switch contacts routing all the current draw to the bulb that is the design problem on what is now a 10 year old bike. This is obviously working well for you, and may continue for a long time, but it sounds like the switch contacts are already a bit dicey.

Re-routing the main current draw via a relay to the bulb, and just activating the relay via the handlebar switch contacts is the final fix.

Mr Suzuki made a good cheap model in the GSX/F range. It is what it is though, and prone to ageing. Mine (600f) is 1992 and still going strong with thoughtful maintenance being required a bit more frequently now.

I recently bought a 1996 Bandit that seems it has never had maintenance done. Still a great bike for what it is. Working my way through that now.

**oldiebutagoody** · 17th October 2016, 08:58

Originally Posted by jellywrestler

is it a lights on all the time model, whether it is or not you could install one double pole relay with the feed to it, a signal from the light switch to the common, either high or low to operate the relay, not both and use the two poles to go to high and low, half the cost half the hassle

Yeah Nah the PDF I sent him covered that, and various other scenarios, and the relay types required/pin config required.

IIRC none of the GSX/F models in NZ new were lights on all the time. The PDF covers setting up for lights on full time.

If Ducati have been turning motorcyclists into mechanics since year dot, Mr Suzuki has been turning us into electricians......

**swbarnett** · 17th October 2016, 11:46

Originally Posted by oldiebutagoody

I'd still check the overall voltage drop at the light bulb connector plug. If its a couple volts lower than 12v it will be drawing higher Amperage/current through the handlebar switch, which will accelerate deterioration in those contacts. If the voltage drop is not attended to, the problem will return at some point.

In the short time it was working after cleaning the switch the voltage was 12.something.