Flat height settings 1996 bandit 250 (GJ77A)

[FJRider]

Bike had been sitting for about 6 months before I picked it up.

Edit: If you bumpstart the bike it will run, although fairly badly, definitely needs tuning but that would logically come after being able to start it

Is the fuel fresh ... these days fuel goes "off" quite rapidly .... check also fuel supply and vacuum lines/valves from the tank. This includes the filter inside the tank at the outlet for gunk.

I'm still sure it's power related though. Look and listen for shorts on the HT leads. Run it in the dark and if there is a short ... it will (usually) be obvious.

Were the plugs you put in .. new .. ??

Reg / Rect isn't connected at all atm ...

????? ... Had these been removed before you got possession of the bike ???

[imthatguy]

everywhere.

i might also suggest (based on "it runs rough" and "[you've] done 'literally' everything else")
that you're running way too lean with no airbox, and that the either: the carbs arent even close to balanced (did you bench set them?); or there's one or more pots not doing what it should.

also, weak spark outside, will probably equal no-spark under compression.

Everywhere has indeed been checked haha.

Shouldn't need the airbox to start, I (tried to) set a friends bandit 250 to run with pods last year and even that idled fine.

They are bench balanced, and yeah Im going with none of them doing what they should

Finally I think your possibly right re the spark thing, but I don't really know what else to do about it. Coils, leads, caps are all we'll within tolerance and work fine on another bike. CDI has been replaced as has the crank sensor (and regapped correctly). All new wiring has been run direct from the battery..

Also re your comment below, thats with choke on, without choke it just turns over and occasionally whimpers

[imthatguy]

Is the fuel fresh ... these days fuel goes "off" quite rapidly .... check also fuel supply and vacuum lines/valves from the tank. This includes the filter inside the tank at the outlet for gunk.

I'm still sure it's power related though. Look and listen for shorts on the HT leads. Run it in the dark and if there is a short ... it will (usually) be obvious.

Were the plugs you put in .. new .. ??



????? ... Had these been removed before you got possession of the bike ???

Yep just bought new fuel on Tuesday, no gunk anywhere, carbs, tank, fuel lines are as clean as a bleached anus.

Im inclined to agree, but no shorts! Leads and caps are within tolerance.

And yeah haha, though Im tempted to go and buy another new set of the next heat range and try that tbh

Reg/Rect was just disconnected by me because I was trying to reduce the number of variables in play at once

[imthatguy]

If you can see spark, it's normally ample. However that is not always the case. If you've buggered around with the pulse generators, the issue may well be there and in the timing.

How have you got it wired up? Could be a shit connection breaking down with the wires you have.

I once experience similar issues with a bike, and it turned out to be broken wires in the loom at the steering head. Fuck did that take some time to find.

If there is good compression, I reckon it's not valve clearance.

Yeah that what I figured, and it'll jump a good 8mm to get to ground so thats all good.

Ive literally run seperate wiring for all the ignition components so it can't be an issue in the loom, and Ive done a continuity test on my own wiring.

I actually took the rocker cover off last night but as you say theres plenty of wiggle room on those valves, they certainly aren't being held open..

[imthatguy]

Is the fuel fresh ... these days fuel goes "off" quite rapidly .... check also fuel supply and vacuum lines/valves from the tank. This includes the filter inside the tank at the outlet for gunk.

I'm still sure it's power related though. Look and listen for shorts on the HT leads. Run it in the dark and if there is a short ... it will (usually) be obvious.

Were the plugs you put in .. new .. ??



????? ... Had these been removed before you got possession of the bike ???

Interesting note re the fuel going off btw, it seems to depend on the bike. Most of the time the kawasaki will start first pop after sitting for 6 months, but if the bikes already having issue it just adds insult to injury

[Drew]

It's gotta be timing then. At least, that's the next place I'd be looking

[imthatguy]

It's gotta be timing then. At least, that's the next place I'd be looking

How could the ignition timing be out? The crank position sensor can't really move, and it has a inner tooth on the cog itself to ensure it cant be reattached wrong.
You mean the actually valve timing? Ill check it, but I can almost guarantee that rocker cover hasn't been off because, I spent a good 20mins prising it off last night

[Drew]

How could the ignition timing be out? The crank position sensor can't really move, and it has a inner tooth on the cog itself to ensure it cant be reattached wrong.
You mean the actually valve timing? Ill check it, but I can almost guarantee that rocker cover hasn't been off because, I spent a good 20mins prising it off last night

Let's address the carbs first Mibbee. I'm back pedaling now because I have a vague recollection that the pulse generators don't mount to a plate. If they do however, make sure said plate is not mounted backwards.

Float height is easy enough to set. The needle should land right about the time the top of the float is parallel with the bowl mating surface. Check the spring tension in those little fuckers too. Make sure they can support the weight of the float, when you slowly turn the carbs upside down.

[imthatguy]

Let's address the carbs first Mibbee. I'm back pedaling now because I have a vague recollection that the pulse generators don't mount to a plate. If they do however, make sure said plate is not mounted backwards.

Float height is easy enough to set. The needle should land right about the time the top of the float is parallel with the bowl mating surface. Check the spring tension in those little fuckers too. Make sure they can support the weight of the float, when you slowly turn the carbs upside down.

The floats are set as suggested, and have checked the float needles too. The carbs don't actively leak, so Im going to say they are working more or less correctly (given the actual floats rest at the same height).

The CPS does indeed mount to a plate, but there is only one side of the place the actual sensor will attach too (as in fit on), and theres only one way the entire assembly will fit in the bike so theres really no way it could be wrong, that I can see

[F5 Dave]

You say you tried to start it with carb clean. Might not be the right stuff. Try brake clean or better yet starting spray.

The GSXR400 I can't seem to move from my lockup (I'll have to go forage the parts myself at this rate) was a bit of a prick as I rebuilt the spare carbs the owner had as originals seized up. Any rate the donor carbs are the same except they had hidden the vacuum tap hose inlet where the gsxr doesn't. Plugging that helped immediately.

[Drew]

You say you tried to start it with carb clean. Might not be the right stuff. Try brake clean or better yet starting spray.

The GSXR400 I can't seem to move from my lockup (I'll have to go forage the parts myself at this rate) was a bit of a prick as I rebuilt the spare carbs the owner had as originals seized up. Any rate the donor carbs are the same except they had hidden the vacuum tap hose inlet where the gsxr doesn't. Plugging that helped immediately.

There's an idea.

[F5 Dave]

Scarily its akzele`s