Holey brass float

[liljegren]

My old DR250 has a nasty case of holey float disease, pinpricks galore. There must be a petrol-proof product I can smear over the brass float surface to seal it? Any ideas, oh wise ones?? Cheers, Matt.

[Akzle]

. There must be a petrol-proof product I can smear over the brass float surface to seal it? Any ideas, oh wise ones?? Cheers, Matt.

ehh, yeah. brass.

braze the cunt.

[scumdog]

Solder it, simple to do.

And if that fails get another float.

[Tazz]

Knead-it and possibly epoxy? Good to have options!

[liljegren]

Tried the solder thing, but it's really hard to get the stuff to take to the actual pinholes. I thought about epoxy, but I rekn the petrol will dissolve it eventually. I can get a new one from Holland for 20 Euros, but the postage was another 30!!
I'd happily buy a whole carb, if someone has one lying around- for a mid eighties DR250S.

[Grumph]

Tried the solder thing, but it's really hard to get the stuff to take to the actual pinholes. I thought about epoxy, but I rekn the petrol will dissolve it eventually. I can get a new one from Holland for 20 Euros, but the postage was another 30!!
I'd happily buy a whole carb, if someone has one lying around- for a mid eighties DR250S.

Use real liquid flux rather than flux cored solder - and real lead based solder if you can find any now....

[scumdog]

Use real liquid flux rather than flux cored solder - and real lead based solder if you can find any now....

Wot 'e sed!

[Akzle]

Use real liquid flux rather than flux cored solder - and real lead based solder if you can find any now....

i use powder.

plus pre-soak the original metal. and i'd be doing bronze-tin, high Si, not lead.

[Grumph]

i use powder.

plus pre-soak the original metal. and i'd be doing bronze-tin, high Si, not lead.

Yeah, I saw your post advocating brazing...IMO use a torch on a brass float and you've got a puddle of brass which used to be a float.

Unless of course you've served an apprenticeship as a jeweller - possibly you have.
The rest of us feel much safer using a soldering iron.

[Akzle]

Yeah, I saw your post advocating brazing...IMO use a torch on a brass float and you've got a puddle of brass which used to be a float.

Unless of course you've served an apprenticeship as a jeweller - possibly you have.
The rest of us feel much safer using a soldering iron.

i have not.

i mean a brazing torch. not a gas axe!

pre-heat the cnut to warm, heat and flux your rod, just enough flame to make it stick...

bonding dissimilar metals with a (what, 40 watt?) soldering iron...
l33t skillz geezer!

[jafagsx250]

Yeah, I saw your post advocating brazing...IMO use a torch on a brass float and you've got a puddle of brass which used to be a float.

Unless of course you've served an apprenticeship as a jeweller - possibly you have.
The rest of us feel much safer using a soldering iron.

If the brass goes pink it's pretty near to having a lot of deformities. The main issue is the thinness of the float. Brazing thick brass to copper is easy. Which is what I do at work

You'd just have to have a soft flame and a fair bit of patience.

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

[F5 Dave]

I've soldered brass floats back on their tabs with soldering iron. Actually used one of those dreadful guns borrowed from a old servo to get me back home. Barely.

And then. . .

Fat tip. Duzel flux, plumbing solder lots of lovely lead.

[Motu]

Yes, a soldering iron, preferably a big one heated by flame. Just tin and run over the holes...it'll look like a pro did it.

[liljegren]

Sheesh, I'm a boatbuilder, I guess I'll have to upskill!
Where's that joker who puts his hand up and says "I've got one under my bench you can have for $20!"

Mumbles and walks to garage, ...what the fuck is flux....

[Akzle]

Sheesh, I'm a boatbuilder, I guess I'll have to upskill!
Where's that joker who puts his hand up and says "I've got one under my bench you can have for $20!"

Mumbles and walks to garage, ...what the fuck is flux....

flux or fucks it. up to you.