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Thread: Pete's TF125 build

  1. #31
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Kewl.

    Had to take a skim off the weights as rod I beam is 1mm thicker and could just touch. Hollow be pin. Pressing slugs in and think we'll try it. So many variables from std setup.

    All the heads offend me so original plan to just run it may morph to welding the centre plug head and then I can machine a squish head. We'll see how Pete's money to pay for outside work holds up.

    Ignitechs are supposedly on the way and we're going to get gst etc slowing things up. Ordered some wires from UK to make up looms which split by 5 people made them $20 each for decent think walled auto wire.

    Oh yeah. JB weld pushed into the tiny ex bridge holes of the piston. See if it lasts as well as TZs Benzonwhatever stuff.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  2. #32
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    RG50 and 76 Suzuki GP125 Buckets
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Had to take a skim off the weights as rod I beam is 1mm thicker and could just touch.
    Yes, forgot to mention it, we take 1mm off the inside of each crank face and also something off the thrust washer area as the RGV rod BE is thicker and bigger than the GP.

    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Oh yeah. JB weld pushed into the tiny ex bridge holes of the piston. See if it lasts as well as TZs Benzonwhatever stuff.
    JB weld should be fine, if not it won't be the end of the world. I would use JB, no problems, if I can't blag some more of the super trick stuff from Darren.

  3. #33
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    27th July 2011 - 17:23
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    I built up a couple of straight plug heads by welding and machining but could never get rid of all the porosity in the welds from the crappy parent material.
    Bored a head and shrink fitted an insert and instantly got rid of a heap of detonation.

  4. #34
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Yeah I lost an mb50 head the same way but I'm hoping just doing the squish area will be OK.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  5. #35
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    I'll put some pics here of the inlet port. resin looks good and a light tickle should get it even. I might end up drooping the edges where the piston comes down further (the middle is shorter) o that corner bit that hasn't flowed to the edge will drop down anyway.
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    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  6. #36
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    Here's the cut reedblock. As you can see it will need some matching and filling a bit but all this is positive.

    Then the back of the skirt will be trimmed to aim flow above the crank rather than into the crank gap.

    I'll need to fill some area below the reedblock as it takes up less room.

    I also need a way to hold the block to the barrel so it doesn't fall off. Think I'll drill some pegs in the sides and use the std screws to retain and bond in place so can't come out.
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    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  7. #37
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    Reed block still needs mounting solution but I had some time when the kids were awake to do some noisy stuff. Back of skirt trimmed. Bore to transfers blended. Will need another tickle after a bore.
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    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  8. #38
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Exhaust raised and widened. Not my best work and still need final measure and clean up. Pig of a bent port to work in.
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    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  9. #39
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    Here's the crank. Needs to go in and thinking about making a stuffer to fill area below smaller reed block. Might screw it in place.
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    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  10. #40
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    I'm thinking that filling both holes in each web might be a step too far, depending of course on just how hard you are going to rev it. Based purely on my own experience. You going to blow the swarf out before assembling it?
    The gas flow in my TS exhaust port used to do a 360 twist in the length of the exhaust port going by the carbon deposits. Real odd but it went OK at the time.

  11. #41
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    Well first off we bored the 2nd hole out the same as the first so filing it redressed that error, also aiming for like 12,000 peak power with a bit of run on, which with a flat cage bearing, bigger pin and better piston than the Suzuki fare should be reliable. I hope.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  12. #42
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    Well Pete came around last night so we could get a few things crossed off the list. Got the reed valve cut out of carbon sheet. . .


    Drank some beers in the garage. . .

    Packed it in at 2am. Maybe I'd be more productive doing it by myself
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  13. #43
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    Made a spacer plate for under the reed area answer a barrel spacer to make up for the longer rod. These things always take longer than expected.
    Need to bolt the reed spacer. One side only. Then can assemble bottom end.

    Sorted a new inlet manifold.

    Barrel should be back from rebore next week and can do a final measure. Getting the plate welded on for manifold but will be sealed with JB Weld. Couldn't be a build without copious resin.

    Getting a squish band built up on the hemisphere head. Hopefully it doesn't turn to bubbles.

    Carb it std but aim to taper it out on the engine side at later date.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  14. #44
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    Crank in. Ready for clutch. Barrel still not back from bore.
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    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  15. #45
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    8mm nut under the head of the 6mm bolt, only in bucket racing is this perfectly acceptable on a race engine.

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