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Thread: Pete's TF125 build

  1. #46
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Ha! Well spotted. Actually they all have nuts there. I used some bolts to pull the cases together evenly but they got too long once pulled in. I'll fit the JIS std screws next.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  2. #47
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    Grr I mutha humping hate those stoopid snoozookie clutch springs. What the heck is wrong with a few simple screws like everyone else?!??

    My puller is too thick. Think I'll make a tiewire attachment.

    Not shown: correct screws fitted in other side.

    Robs donated GP clutch basket with 1 more plate than TF.
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    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  3. #48
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Grr I mutha humping hate those stoopid snoozookie clutch springs. What the heck is wrong with a few simple screws like everyone else?!??

    My puller is too thick. Think I'll make a tiewire attachment.
    I made a nice one from a piece of 8mm rod. Filed the end into a narrow hook and had a hole through the other end for a screwdriver to be used as a handle. Somebody needed it more than me.

  4. #49
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    S'funny I never had this much drama with my old TS I put into an RG frame. Actually I think it was your RG frame. Maybe I had a better pull tool back then. Not sure where it came from but. . .
    Just kiddin.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  5. #50
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Grr I mutha humping hate those stoopid snoozookie clutch springs. What the heck is wrong with a few simple screws like everyone else?!??
    I feel your pain.

    A Suzuki GN125 clutch inner has screws and looks like it might fit. I am going to try one on my GP100.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The GN clutch. 6 plates. The GN splines are the same as the GP and TF.

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  6. #51
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    Well the tie wire worked, but that was 1\2 hr of concentration and fiddly placement that I'll never get back.

    Side cover on. Just check the clutch. . . and it's locked solid! Puller pulls side cover on. But no further. Oh, right. The extra plate means the puller is now a few mm closer. Bet the GP one is shorter. Either I hunt in the spares or put a spacer behind it. . realisation. . and have to take off that friggin plate to swap it

    Time to give up. Made a couple of base gaskets and glued up the kick starter hole. Bah!
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  7. #52
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    Ahh, I see. They're a pushy type like the RG rather than a pully type like, erm the TS. Spacer it is.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  8. #53
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    Hmm. Still no dice. Wtf!

    OK measures; pressure plate seems to virtually touch the cover.

    Pete shows up with TS cover. Nope the same.

    Ahh. TF pressure plate different from the TS (and GP)

    Why? Surely a different plate and different basket are more expensive to develop produce separate runs and maintain stock control for the 1 clutch plate saved?!??

    Mucho easier to fit clutch spring pins with 2 people. Edit; and now I think about it about 5mm less preload.
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    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  9. #54
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    Right last job tonight. I'll fit the stator plate. Hmm. Baseplate diameter bigger but some filing at the mounts could fix that. But wires stop it sitting flush.

    See the wires at 9 o'clock.


    Will have to consult Robs pictures of the swap before I move wires and cut grooves.

    Then this gets bored to fit this in it.
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    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  10. #55
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    Flywheel seems very small , from what's bike it is?

    Wysłane z mojego Redmi 4A przy użyciu Tapatalka

  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Hmm. Baseplate diameter bigger but some filing at the mounts could fix that. But wires stop it sitting flush.
    HMmmm, I think TZ forgot to point out they remove the stater core and pickup then turn down the OD of the stater plate and shift the wires underneath when re assembling it.
    Factual Facts are based on real Fact and Universal Truths. Alternative Facts by definition are not based on Truth.

  12. #57
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    Cool thought that could be the go but wanted to check as seemed strange not mentioned.

    And it's from a Lifan pit bike of some sort. As long as it provides enough juice for the ignitech and a pulse it's fit for porpoise.

    Original Suzuki ones were ideal for a farm bike but shear the crank off when asked to do 12000.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastFred View Post
    I think TZ forgot to point out they turn down the OD of the stater plate.
    True that....

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    The bottom three coils circled are the 12Volt generator coils and give about 2A (25W) which is enough for an Ignitec's 1.5A draw at full song. The top two coils are high Voltage for charging a CDI's capacitor. We strip those two poles and sometimes re wind the three bare poles with more 12Volt windings for extra current capacity.

    The winding sequence is tricky, it goes clockwise then anti clockwise then clockwise again or the other way round can't remember but easy enough to work out if you look for it.

    If I was doing another one where I wound extra 12Volt wingdings I would bring out two sets of wires, one pair from the new windings and the other pair from the original windings and run two separate cheep Chinese 12Volt voltage rectifier/regulators. Hard to balance the new windings with the original, much easier to run two 12Volt voltage rectifier/regulators with their 12Volts output wired in parallel.

  14. #59
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    Isn't balancing it just a matter of having the same length of wire on each?

  15. #60
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    Of the 3 coils to the 2 coils. Yeah two rec regs is a good idea, but I'll just run the bottom 3 and one for now and measure for volt drop at full chat. Thanks Rob.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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