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Thread: Pete's TF125 build

  1. #61
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    I'll just run the bottom 3 and one for now and measure for volt drop at full chat.
    I think that will be all you will need. Measuring for Voltage drop at full chat, that is a better idea than my effort of revving it up with a 25W light bulb.

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Cool thought that could be the go but wanted to check as seemed strange not mentioned.

    And it's from a Lifan pit bike of some sort. As long as it provides enough juice for the ignitech and a pulse it's fit for porpoise.

    Original Suzuki ones were ideal for a farm bike but shear the crank off when asked to do 12000.
    What method are you using to piece together the flywheel?
    i was having a nosey the other day at brake and clutch rivets
    Those suzis sure have a real shallow long taper
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  3. #63
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    As well as using lock-tight on the screws I also glued the rotor parts together with 5min Araldite, 5min because it stays a little flexible and wont crack off like super strength does.

  4. #64
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    On my bikes, The CR stator into a decent size cap with a Chinese rec/reg had no drop over the battery terminals when run up on the dyno. The battery is not used except when bike off and PC connected.

    Hopefully the TF /Lifan can prove as steady. You only need as much as you need. The MB runs a fairly hungry intercooler water pump, carb solenoid, quick shifter, knock gauge, shift light. The TF has none of that. Actually will get shifter and light but that's squat and instant.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  5. #65
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Barrel back. 5mm plate and .7mm gasket.
    196 ex
    128 try
    183 in
    That'll do.
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    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  6. #66
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    So hemisphere head and now flat piston. I tell weldy guy; try best you can to build it up. Skim it flat and scoop a bit out to see not too porous. I'll cut the dome.


    This is how it came back. I spent 2min with some sandpaper.
    Yet to measure it. Bet he's fluked the cc. Pretty happy.
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    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  7. #67
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    That is very good welding work, very impressed.
    Factual Facts are based on real Fact and Universal Truths. Alternative Facts by definition are not based on Truth.

  8. #68
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    Yeah he said you have to burn out the rubbish bit at a time. Surprisingly the bowl looks a decent depth and he had a cutter he made when doing a KTM insert.
    Karl at Cemeck in Petone. He's a tool maker that welds as sideline but somehow is talented off trade .
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Yeah he said you have to burn out the rubbish bit at a time. Surprisingly the bowl looks a decent depth and he had a cutter he made when doing a KTM insert.
    Karl at Cemeck in Petone. He's a tool maker that welds as sideline but somehow is talented off trade .
    Ah, the penny drops. That fella is a master with the metal.

    His spark erosion trickery is sick. Every Kawasaki owner should visit him with gearbox in hand.

    Mind. With the little material being removed from the drive dogs, grinding doesn't actually ruin the tempered steel.

  10. #70
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    barrel o-ring. Viton 144.
    Carb taper adapter.
    Flywheel bored out.
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    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  11. #71
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    Stator plate
    I filed about 1mm on each mounting point. Then inwards so the bolts fitted (not shown). Can't adjust it but that suits me for ease of reassembly. Adjustable in Sw.

    So I pulled the wires out the back of the plate and rerouted them and added an earth wire.

    I also had to grind the case and cover a little to clear the pulsar coil.
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    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  12. #72
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    Great looking progress.

  13. #73
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    Great thread

    I race a X7 so similar weird intake and i'm looking at what would be better - as is or just piston ported with the reed tunnel filled?

    I do have a question: Where are the boost (C ports) fed from? Is it from the B port transfer tunnel?

    Cheers

    Dave

  14. #74
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    Yes my RG50 was the same. Actually works okish. Fed from Bs. There must be people who have tried piston port on X7s. But figured the reed will help on shorter tracks getting out of corners. Do flatten up the reed block. I did the TS piston trick in my x7 to about 275cc but it was a roadbike not sure on your rules. The same issues affect x7s. Mediocre parts which is why the cranks are weak. If you are allowed the same sort of crank mods and modern pistons will slow many more revs. Getting rid of that silly head gasket and cutting the head in half will cure failures there.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  15. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Yes my RG50 was the same. Actually works okish. Fed from Bs. There must be people who have tried piston port on X7s. But figured the reed will help on shorter tracks getting out of corners. Do flatten up the reed block. I did the TS piston trick in my x7 to about 275cc but it was a roadbike not sure on your rules. The same issues affect x7s. Mediocre parts which is why the cranks are weak. If you are allowed the same sort of crank mods and modern pistons will slow many more revs. Getting rid of that silly head gasket and cutting the head in half will cure failures there.
    Cheers for that Dave.

    What do you mean by flatten up the reed block?

    I did test steel std reeds against some hy-tech fiber reeds (that are years old) and there was a little difference but not much. I also want to make a blank so I can do some runs with the reed blanked off as i'm curious to see how it benefits the curve

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    Max is a 1.5mm overbore. Is the ts 56mm?

    Crank is something for the winter... not had any failure yet but peak power is at 9 - 9.5 k. Also I run a total loss ignition so only a small trigger on the end of the crank.

    Head gasket is gone... it came spigoted though considering going the lapped and doweled route to get more contact area with the cylinder for better cooling of the head.

    Cheers

    Dave

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