Pete's TF125 build

[TZ350]

What do you mean by flatten up the reed block?

Max is a 1.5mm overbore. Is the ts 56mm?

Suzuki TS125 is 56mm bore standard.

Attached from Cooker race products tuning tips for a RG50 is the section on the flattened reed block.

[F5 Dave]

Pain to do back to back tests with reeds where they are. If you can get the revs up and you should you may have to revise the reeds again. Carbon sheet is easy to work but always test. I've reverted to steel more than once.
Bury yourself in parts diagrams and find a decent piston and rod combination presumably from mx aftermarket. Flat cage bearings available from pjme in UK. Perhaps a place to consider for rod mods.

Thin ring pistons cope with revs and shed heat better than flapping thick rings.

Peak at 11 should be possible with better rods and bigger crank pins. More places are capable of the accuracy machining these days. Power would jump considerably with pipes adjusted and ideally ports.

I swapped GS (550 etc) front caliper to improve brakes. Also used longer shocks but sure that's well trodden path.

[rgvbaz]

Suzuki TS125 is 56mm bore standard.

Attached from Cooker race products tuning tips for a RG50 is the section on the flattened reed block.

That's great info - thanks

Note - the pipes I have made were designed with Graham Coker's exhaust pipe calculator.

[rgvbaz]

Pain to do back to back tests with reeds where they are. If you can get the revs up and you should you may have to revise the reeds again. Carbon sheet is easy to work but always test. I've reverted to steel more than once.
Bury yourself in parts diagrams and find a decent piston and rod combination presumably from mx aftermarket. Flat cage bearings available from pjme in UK. Perhaps a place to consider for rod mods.

Thin ring pistons cope with revs and shed heat better than flapping thick rings.

Peak at 11 should be possible with better rods and bigger crank pins. More places are capable of the accuracy machining these days. Power would jump considerably with pipes adjusted and ideally ports.

I swapped GS (550 etc) front caliper to improve brakes. Also used longer shocks but sure that's well trodden path.

Yep - back to back is a pain... the last test was 1hr 15 mins between tests (me stick changing reeds over). I have some carbon sheet and Dat2T says the frequency is a much better match than the steel or fiber...

Yes the std 19mm crank pin and 14mm piston pin isn't great for piston/rod choice. I'll look at options on the Grampian site and maybe splash out this off-season and upgrade the crank.

I run a AP classic front brake caliper and race EBC pads - the braking is pretty damn good


Cheers again for the great info

Dave

[F5 Dave]

Yeah so perhaps TZR or YZ rods matched to YZ piston. Oh hold on, piston port. Check out Strike KT pistons oversized go fair high. But crank small end.

Maybe CR pistons around 54mm. . or RM.

Anyway chances are you can find something.

[speedpro]

I'll just mention it due to what has been said above. My thoughts were that the reeds extend the top end revs of the standard engine with the small piston ports. At all other times it simply hinders flow in the intake port. If you time the piston port for the revs you want then there is no requirement for the reed and you can fill it in and make a nice intake port.

[rgvbaz]

Yeah so perhaps TZR or YZ rods matched to YZ piston. Oh hold on, piston port. Check out Strike KT pistons oversized go fair high. But crank small end.

Maybe CR pistons around 54mm. . or RM.

Anyway chances are you can find something.

I had a look and a RM rod is 15mm piston pin and 22 crank pin (pin is 3mm longer though... Will they machine?) It's 10mm longer rod too which in theory should help.

Piston wise - 00-03 RM and 05-08 CR pistons look best and have the ring pin at the rear. Overall length is shorter than the x7s 60mm piston (RM 57.25mm and CR 59mm) but I want to experiment with inlet timing on the std piston with a file on the rear skirt first to see what she likes...

Cheers

Dave

[rgvbaz]

I'll just mention it due to what has been said above. My thoughts were that the reeds extend the top end revs of the standard engine with the small piston ports. At all other times it simply hinders flow in the intake port. If you time the piston port for the revs you want then there is no requirement for the reed and you can fill it in and make a nice intake port.

Agreed and something I'd like to try.

I'll find the X7 tuning thread that is on here and post some X7 stuff on there and stop de-railing this one.

Once again - thanks for the input.

Cheers

Dave

[F5 Dave]

I had a look and a RM rod is 15mm piston pin and 22 crank pin (pin is 3mm longer though... Will they machine?) It's 10mm longer rod too which in theory should help.

Piston wise - 00-03 RM and 05-08 CR pistons look best and have the ring pin at the rear. Overall length is shorter than the x7s 60mm piston (RM 57.25mm and CR 59mm) but I want to experiment with inlet timing on the std piston with a file on the rear skirt first to see what she likes...

Cheers

Dave

Shorter piston you can file inlets upwards. As long as it covers the ex port and shouldn't be an issue. Yes you can grind pin shorter. Shorter pin to crown is nice if you can get it. Obviously you have to check port timings and deck once its all together and fettle. Rebore will tend to lower transfers say 1/2 - 1 degree and ex not at all

[speedpro]

Pin will be able to be machined. Finish with grinding. Mate machines tool steel, with the right inserts, and you don't want to be too close when the chips are flying.

[F5 Dave]

Reed block mounted. Sideways screw captive with washer and bolt. Loctite and then resin.

[F5 Dave]

Squish squished.

That's plenty tight. I might pop the head off after a few runs to check the piston crown. Should be fine.

[F5 Dave]

Kinda all nailed together
Just drill and tap stator and my job is done.
Well then it'll be finished all the other jobs on the chassis that won't have been finished and the loom even though as a sparky he should be better able than me.
Then set up ignitech and do some tuning runs on the Dyno.

Might be able to get back to doing my 496 before summer.
Except this bloody GSXR. Should finish the Stinger too.
Dirt bike muffler needs a repack.
So does the 675.
Heck there's probably stuff to do around the property.
I need a lifestyle sponsor.

[Muciek]

Could You tell me what is the OD of the magneto? I have found 2 versions one is 88mm and is slightly different , 2nd looks like Yours but they didn't included the diameter in specs, and they not in the mood for measuring... Thanks

[FastFred]

Could You tell me what is the OD of the magneto? ... Thanks

OD of magneto flywheel rotor is 78mm.