Top work, sounds exciting
Top work, sounds exciting
Had a few minutes so decided to set the timing correctly. Caught the 11,000 RPM rev limiter and the flat line curve had reset to some odd curve. All you need to do is change the bike inputs and it scrambles previous settings.
Sadly I had the stator too far out and 40deg base setting wasn't enough to get it on spot. Can't move plate so will have to broach another slot on the flywheel and try it all again. I could just run it without the key, but that is giving a problem for the future when has to be set up with degree wheel and all that palavour. Kneedit in the old slot. Always does my head working out which way to go as you add move base advance to get it closer but position actually needs to be retarded. Gaah.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Ok ignition flywheel recut slot. Bang on, 14 degrees is adjusted to 15.
Charged my old alarm battery as not sure if alternator wiring is right.
Took it to the dyno, which sadly I'll lose access to end of the year after like 20 yrs.
Std jetting 18.7hp. Oops left the choke on. Oh much worse. 107 mj. Sheesh. Won't pull a 150. 132 it will but only 16. Everything after gets shitty. Hmm, measure battery when running, about 6v. Crap, no point continuing, wait check alternator. 43VAC. Sweet will need go wire that up to the rectifier and a cap.
Lot of stuff loose. This thing was badly built by that Auckland liar he bought it off.
Oh, and even with the ex raised about 4mm peak power is about 9500. So actually peak that low is surprisingly high. Another 2500 should make some decent go, maybe bodge my RS125 pipe on it. Still well above the 15 hp his FXR with pipe and carb made.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Well we didn't manage to raise it much. Maybe near 19.
Ah there was supposed to be a picture but didn't load try again later.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
It should reduce that. Results seem to come out even when you measure both, so it seems to work. Maybe on bigger piston but I've not struck that. Ideally you check all 4 corners at some stage to see your head face is plain on the plane.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
We popped in on the Buckets last Sunday after a ride and it has motivated Pete. He has spent weekend in the shed getting it ready for a looong overdue shakedown run. Probably aptly named as the crank balance factor isnt right I'm pretty sure. We didn't measure it, just took Mike's suggestions.
Thinking back he ran both as a 100 and a 125 in bigger clubmans class. Didn't ask if 125 shook more.
Either way need to then graft RS pipe onto it as it is revving like a farm bike..
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Well shakedown run. A year after it was finished just needing nylon etc to be track ready.
End of the day the bike still runs, so that's a win.
The biggest issue was he found it super uncomfortable on his knees. The pegs are too far forward, too high and the seat unit makes all this worse. We moved the seat up with some stiff cardboard box jammed under the front. So far so bucket.
Then it stopped. Flurry of activity, rerouting fuel lines, oh, no spark, add a battery, spark comes back, won't start. change plug , no. Hmm. Bit of oil at the base gasket. . . And 3 of the 6 nuts missing. Add those and it starts. We'd never retorqued them and with a thick ally spacer and vibration they loosened off.
Big list of ergonomic changes and need for new pipe.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Well I took the experience from dyno reving it out. My MB was spot on with 10mm holes you suggested. Vibes uncomfortably in the pits, fine to race. Pete actually said the same but hes only really touching 10500 perhaps and was worrying about other stuff like sore knees.
I've invented a high tech spring puller in my head. Just need to get my wood saw and screws out to make it. You'll larf, but I think it will work great.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Well
Cut a coil and half off the clutch springs with dremel cut off disc. This means I can wind them in further for 2mm more preload and also reduce the active springs giving an 11% increase in rate.
This will make the tricky arrangement a pig to put together. Enter new spring tool. Let's see if i can reattach this. Larf you might.
https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/a...9&d=1580702734
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
It was version 3 in my mind. The other versions all potentially rotated the spring when I tested them (whilst trying to get back to sleep).
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Didn't laugh but a little snort did escape. It always amazed me how far the pins could fly if the spring escaped before the pin was fully in place.
Well finally got the cut down clutch springs in. Took a fair bit of concentration and two sets of hands but the tool was well worthwhile. Probably hampered by the state we were in by then. Made a longer gear rod out of some hex rod ,to match his rather simple rearset adapter plates. Flat plate a bit thin for my liking but we'll see.
I then broke my LH m6 tap by running it into the rod hole on the lathe which was way too shallow.
Not paying attention for afore mentioned reason.
Pipe will go to Damon to modify the header I think so it actually gets done. RS pipe should wake it up quite somewhat. As will a clutch that now feels less like a Trials bike and more like a racebike just on effort to pull.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks