Reckon you need some ape-hangers so your body is more rearward, thus placing weight over the rear wheel. I'll be here all night if you need more advice.
Reckon you need some ape-hangers so your body is more rearward, thus placing weight over the rear wheel. I'll be here all night if you need more advice.
Caveat: little practical experience of my own.
Google 'tyre grip vs temperature' and quite a few interesting discussions pop up, most of them from the car world. General consensus from what I can find is that there's a temperature optimum for max. grip. Go under and your tyres are slippy; go over and it's the same story.
One of the more interesting points was that it's not just temperature. Inflation, grip pattern, carcass flex etc etc all seem to influence each other.
Sorry that I can't be more help than this... would it be worth running some tests?
Youre going into the corner too slow.
Faster entry means less throttle to exit. Problem solved.
Classic example was a local guy here I know low sided hsi SV650 a couple of times and was getting odd wheel spin. We talked it through and I asked about where the bike / shock (an Ohlins) etc had come from. The old owner weighed 120kg plus gear. New Owner, may be 70kg......new spring and I think valving to suit and the problem went away.
Ken McIntosh and I were talking earlier this year as I was in his work shop and he and Pete were telling me a couple of things which get over looked. How much chain slack is the when the countershaft, rear axle and swng arm pivot line up? What happens when there's not enough? Does it stop the rear suspension from compressing beyond that binding point? What effect does that have on other things like traction, swing arm alignment, counter shaft bearings!
From what I can tell, some bikes don't have enough slack as a stock figure....oops!
Look beyond just is "okay or good or bad. Look at what is actually happening with it.
Eg chain: It's not just are the links okay. Look to see whether it has enough slack to allow the countershaft, swing arm pivot and rear axle to line up. Take your shock out. Rotate the swing arm so they line up. Does it move freely through this point? Is the chain worn, stretched clean and lubed and free?
Have you done you static sag figures? if not, or you don't know what this is. Go to Jail and do not collect $200! Go find out what it is. That could easily be 100% of your problem.
Bumps: Who cares whether there is or not. The rear suspension needs to compress and move as part of the dynamic that creates traction, irrespective.
Tyres: I'll ask again. What pressure rise are you seeing. Google Dave Moss Tuning.
I think you need to do some serious learning in all of these areas. There's good books around like Sports Bike suspension tuning by Andrew Trevitt. Go start reading so you at least understand what you are dealing with.
Re low quality of the stock swing arm, whatever. It won't matter what the quality is if the rest of the stuff it is attached to is badly set up. My brother and I subscribe to a theory called "magpie" theory. Magpies are attracted to Shiny shit. But it does not matter how good the shiny shit is if it not as well set up as the stock stuff. I can't say I've heard of guys moaning about the stock ones.
Is the frame straight and not cracked.
can you explain how chopping some of the rear of the frame off will make it handle better.
Again, I'll ask the question asked above. Which corner, what circuit and what country. Updating your profile may explain things.
Come along to CSS in Feb at Manfeild - well have it sorted by the end of the first session...........90% of the time its the rider unless your setup is way out. If your setup is way out then it will do it every corner like this, if it ONLY does it at ONE corner.....its normally you :-)
Chappy
Come see what the fuss is about....................http://www.californiasuperbikeschool.co.nz/
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