2016 Hyosung GV125 Main fuse blowing

[Akzle]

Another thread started by someone looking for help, totally fucked by our resident non motorcycling moron! Fortunately, we are not all hillbilly fucktards on this site AC94, ignore the troll!

thanks for your contribution to a) the thread b) it's learning c) humanity at large.


or...fuck off and die, you gay ass stalker cunt.

[Akzle]

@akzle: I'm flattered, but now guess what... I've got to.

AC94: You've got a short in the wiring loom. It's easy to fix, it's not so easy to sort the consequences if it's fried anything, and it'll be a pig to find. Welcome to motorcycle electrical hell.

What's happening is that somewhere on the positive side of the wiring between battery and headlight, the insulation has been worn away or failed. This is letting copper conductor touch frame, bodywork, or if things are really shit, the adjacent ground wire insulation has failed too and the two wires are shorting together.

When this happens, 12 V is being applied to wiring loom plus whatever contact resistance the short has. Result: it's pulling lots of amps and this high electrical current is blowing the fuse.

The fuse is supposed to blow. By failing, it's protecting other bits of your bike from getting melted, fried, welded, catching fire etc. So if you've got blowing fuses, sort out why instead of just bridging the fuse with a paperclip or something.

As to finding the bloody thing... some suggestions:

- get wiring diagram, start tracing lines, you know it's on the headlight so there's no need to check wiring for indicators or rear lamp etc
- visual check (especially where wire flexes), look for damage or flash marks
- visual check on frame, bodywork etc, go looking for shiny metal where wiring has been flexing against frame, look for flash marks
- set bike up in lockable working area and start taking bits off to get better access
- completely remove relevant wiring harness from bike, get this onto a benchtop, and go over it in fine detail
- etc etc.

Unfortunately the only way you can find it is to go looking for it.

Once found, Jaycar will do heatshrink tubing in both adhesive lined (against weather) or single wall (can be taken off again if necessary), cable ties to secure wiring, spiral wrap to armour cable bundles, or you can use electrical tape for all of these if you don't mind a crappy repair.

If you're not technical and don't find it early and easy, ask yourself very seriously if you want to go further - and who you've got around you to ask for help.

Failing that, an experienced bike mechanic will likely know exactly where to go looking to find the fault.

Good luck, unfortunately dealing with issues like this is all part of the experience.

it's a short from a wire rubbed through around the steering head. fuck you very much.

[AC94]

@akzle: I'm flattered, but now guess what... I've got to.

AC94: You've got a short in the wiring loom. It's easy to fix, it's not so easy to sort the consequences if it's fried anything, and it'll be a pig to find. Welcome to motorcycle electrical hell.

What's happening is that somewhere on the positive side of the wiring between battery and headlight, the insulation has been worn away or failed. This is letting copper conductor touch frame, bodywork, or if things are really shit, the adjacent ground wire insulation has failed too and the two wires are shorting together.

When this happens, 12 V is being applied to wiring loom plus whatever contact resistance the short has. Result: it's pulling lots of amps and this high electrical current is blowing the fuse.

The fuse is supposed to blow. By failing, it's protecting other bits of your bike from getting melted, fried, welded, catching fire etc. So if you've got blowing fuses, sort out why instead of just bridging the fuse with a paperclip or something.

As to finding the bloody thing... some suggestions:

- get wiring diagram, start tracing lines, you know it's on the headlight so there's no need to check wiring for indicators or rear lamp etc
- visual check (especially where wire flexes), look for damage or flash marks
- visual check on frame, bodywork etc, go looking for shiny metal where wiring has been flexing against frame, look for flash marks
- set bike up in lockable working area and start taking bits off to get better access
- completely remove relevant wiring harness from bike, get this onto a benchtop, and go over it in fine detail
- etc etc.

Unfortunately the only way you can find it is to go looking for it.

Once found, Jaycar will do heatshrink tubing in both adhesive lined (against weather) or single wall (can be taken off again if necessary), cable ties to secure wiring, spiral wrap to armour cable bundles, or you can use electrical tape for all of these if you don't mind a crappy repair.

If you're not technical and don't find it early and easy, ask yourself very seriously if you want to go further - and who you've got around you to ask for help.

Failing that, an experienced bike mechanic will likely know exactly where to go looking to find the fault.

Good luck, unfortunately dealing with issues like this is all part of the experience.

Thanks OddDuck, you've really been a big help. I have another wiring loom so I'll just swap I out.


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[Honest Andy]

Erm... before you swap the loom... have you checked all the bulbs?
Very occasionally a bulb will blow in such a way to have an internal short circuit. Especially the cheap bulbs. Remove all the bulbs (headlight, taillight, park light) and see if the fuse still blows.
Slim chance but could save heaps of time

[Laava]

thanks for your contribution to a) the thread b) it's learning c) humanity at large.


or...fuck off and die, you gay ass stalker cunt.

Getting a bit oversensitive eh numbnuts!