Lightening flywheels

**speedpro** · 21st February 2004, 20:31

Originally Posted by Kickaha

he rephased the crank to a 90 degree firing order like the later V twin,changed ignition etc and then ran it,completely different sound and power delivery was then more like the V twin and a lot more driveable.

If the BMEP stays the same for each cylinder I still can't see how having them arranged differently could affect the measured power. I think the relevant bit is that the ignition was changed. This could have significant effects on the power curve

**Racey Rider** · 22nd February 2004, 18:49

Originally Posted by Dave

... Have a look at the exposed end of the thread and see if its left hand-it may be.Assuming that its not, Then put the bike in gear and get someone to stand on the rear brake. Get a power bar or large ratchet and pipe and undo it.Once you have the nut undone- you still may need a special puller to get the flywheel off,Most of these are on a taper and need a puller to remove.

WHAT A SOD this nut is!!!

Yes the exposed end shows it's a normal thread. Have tryed both ways anyway.
Impact driver won't move it. So then I tried your idea. Ended up with a piece of wood through the mag wheel and onto the swing arm. No way that wheel was going to move. Then engaged first gear and got the socket/rachet onto the nut. Once the wheel was holding presure against it, I could turn the rachet 180 degrees before needing the bit of pipe added. Once the pipe was on, it keeped turning another 180 or more degrees, adding more presser on everything the more I pressed. I knew the wheel wouldn't move, so something had to give! I was in fear of breaking gearbox cogs, when something gave.
First I thought the nut has come loose, but no. The clutch must have slipped.
Happened a second time, so I gave up!
I do have 2 sets of pullers, so once I get this flippen nut off i should be right.
Guess I'll just have to use the heat treatment, and replace seals and,,,, the whole motor if need be!!

Any other ideas?? :spudwhat:

I wanted to get this flywheel off before removing the motor from the bike for repair. :confused2

Racey.

**speedpro** · 22nd February 2004, 19:55

Buy a rattle gun. Even a little one from somewhere like Partmaster should take it off no problem. You will need a special puller to get the rotor off. They are available in a lot of bike shops and made by Buznatti or something like that. They're only $20 odd so pay for themselves in no time. If you look at the rotor and the nut holding it on you should find a large diameter fine pitch thread on the inside of the rotor where the nut is, the tool screws into that and presses on the crank once you get the nut off. These large threads can be left or right handed and come in a few different sizes but the shop should know what size you need.

If you don't want to fork out for the rattle gun you can take the head and barrell off and put a screwdriver handle between the flywheels so that when you try and turn the nut the big end of the rod gets jammed against the screwdriver handle which will be jammed against the crankcase. I've done this lots, I'm a bucket racer, and have never caused any damage.

**Racey Rider** · 25th February 2004, 19:20

It's OFF!!

Gotta get me one of those rattle guns!

Found a friend of a friend with one. Took him all of 2 seconds to get that flywheel nut off.

So, flywheels off, motors out, can't wait till the weekend to get the barrel off and into the next stage of problems to solve. (What was that ticking noise in the motor?).

Thanks to all who offered suggestion!

More questions next week for sure!

Racey

**Dave** · 26th February 2004, 12:25

How embarrasing for you. The method i described is what i have used for years to take off bolts that are too tight for a rattle gun.
You must not have had any weetbix this week.