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Thread: Summer running - 2000 Ducati ST2

  1. #136
    Join Date
    3rd March 2008 - 11:55
    Riding the evil flatlands
    Quote Originally Posted by AllanB View Post
    Cost something like $250 to fix, pressure system to find leak, drain, pull a quarter of the shit off the engine to get to offending part, replace, refit, refill, pressure test ...

    Mechanic said it has at least another dozen of the same connections through the cooling system ...
    There's your mistake, if you want to own an old euro or even a ducati you need to be willing to buy parts from ebay and put the time in yourself if you don't want to be arse raped by mechanics, otherwise buy something <10 years old with <150k on the clock.

    Quote Originally Posted by AllanB View Post
    That was at the arse end of the extended aftermarket warranty and that warranty had been over used in the three years we had the car so we flicked it off for a Suzuki
    You do realise you'd probably fixed all of the things that were going to go wrong with it, and the next owner will have a dream run....and hope to god not a suzuki swift, most inaptly named car in the history of the world.

    Quote Originally Posted by OddDuck View Post
    NoelH - I got the thermostat (complete) off Stein Dinse, two weeks delivered ex Germany. They have a flat rate of EU 40 delivered to NZ / AUS so it's worth lining a few spares up for each order.

    Have a look at

    The exploded parts diagrams can be very handy plus also they have photos of the parts which can be very useful.
    That is a spectacularly useful link.
    Riding cheap crappy old bikes badly since 1987

    Tagorama maps: Transalpers map first 100 tags..................Map of tags 101-200......................Latest map, tag # 201-->

  2. #137
    Join Date
    8th July 2018 - 07:46
    Ducati ST2 2003

    Parts Listing

    Hi guys

    I managed to get a full PDF parts catalogue from here

    Quite handy for reassembling when you cannot quite remember how it came apart

  3. #138
    Join Date
    8th July 2018 - 07:46
    Ducati ST2 2003


    Heres one that doesn't seem to come up very often, most people want to raise their ST2 handlebars not lower them.

    I had been having a few back issues after long trips and after a few photos of me on the bike i finally figured out what i was doing to cause the problem, i had also realised that i never had a back issue on my SS900, that just destroys my wrists instead but not my back.

    So after looking and thinking a bit i realised on trips at higher speed or in head winds i was trying to tuck behind the windshield as i am mostly a lay down rider anyway, but to acheive that i was sliding back on the seat and that rolls my tailbone up because the only way to lay down was to move backwards because my hands were too high to move my shoulders down any further..

    To cut a long story short i managed to get a set of SS900ie clipons for $60 and figured nothing to loose and can always change back (and still can).

    1/ Raising the forks in the triple clamps
    Not too hard to do, had to remove the fairings to access the lower triple clamp bolts, I spent a lot of time checking fork travel (i have a cable tie on the forks to measure travel and my forks occasionally bottom out because they have M900 springs in them (because i am featherweight) so i know the point of maximum travel.
    That was my biggest area of concern, with the forks lowered i have only 5mm between the mudguard and the lower headlight cowling)

    2/ Fitting the clipons
    No real issues, had to drill a few new holes in the new bars to line up the pins on the 2 electrical switches correctly.

    3/ Fitting the brake and clutch levers back on.
    Heres where the problems began, the extra lug on the triple clamp on the outside that bolts the old handlebar forging to the triple clamp stops the levers rotating down far enough, I spent quite a bit of time on this and managed to get it acceptable by changing the lower lever clamp bolt from an allen head to a screw, obviously carving the lug off the triple clamp with a hacksaw would be easy enough but no going back.
    I had already checked there would be no clash on the fairing cutouts, those are so low one could almost believe they were made for clipons.

    4/ Dashboard
    I had a few issues with the hydraulic lines hitting the dashboard at full lock, a readjustment of the angle of the hydraulic lines at the banjo bolt on the rear of the master cylinder and a slight shortening of the turning circle adusters solve that.

    JOB DONE....

    Mostly perfect, the brake lever needs to rotate downward a little further, i will either get a SS900ie top triple clamp or a ST2 one and carve the excess off, apparantly the SS900 and ST2 have the same dimension triple clamp, I will get around to that sometime. OVerall the bars are 40mm lower and 25mm further forward that the old ones and angle down a bit more.

    How does it feel? The million dollar question????????????

    I am much more comfortable, now i can sit close to the tank and lie on the rear of the tank, my arms sit closer to the tank and if i rotate down i can actually put my lower arms in those 2 grooves on the tank that were made for arms to lie in.
    It is no where as low as my SS so still quite comfortable, I have done a few longer rides in the last 2 weeks and can actually find no negatives on the comfort front

    Certainly goes around corners quicker, i was a little concerned that the steepening of the steering from raising the forks would be noticeable but not really, the only thing i really notice is the back brake locks easier because less weight on the rear and the front brakes are a bit more powerful.

    Overall it handles better, as you might expect, more like a sports tourer than ever before.

    I wouldn't recommend this to everyone, most people seem to want their bars higher, I have had the wife on the back too and she actually likes it as she has more seat, that habit of mine of sliding my butt backwards was stealing her seat space....

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  4. #139
    Join Date
    28th January 2015 - 16:17
    2000 Ducati ST2
    Lower Hutt
    A quick comment on the Ducati OEM clutch pressure plate. I went through this earlier with the 900SS...

    The clutch is having trouble releasing properly, particularly when hot. The bike bangs its way through the gears, particularly neutral into first. I've been putting a lot of work into checking friction and steel plates flatness, notching on hub and basket, air bubbles in the hydraulic circuit etc but I hadn't really had a look at the pressure plate itself.

    The stock OEM item is a diecast item, made from zinc-aluminium alloy and covered in weight saving cutouts. It's been braced and buttressed very nicely, with stress relieving curves everywhere, but it's featherlight. Taking it off the ST2, cleaning it up and having a good look at it showed that it's got cracks. This cracking follows the pattern seen in the 900SS but isn't quite as advanced.

    Aluminium isn't particularly stiff. It gets less stiff with temperature. The pressure plate will get hot as the clutch operates, both from engine heat and friction off the clutch pack. Cracking definitely won't help. It's not really a stretch to imagine that the de-clutching problems have a lot to do with this pressure plate flexing under load.

    Effectively the plate operates like a beam. The clutch plunger rod pushes it in the middle, the six springs push it the other way on either side, and beyond that is the radius where it contacts the clutch pack. If it flexes then it effectively looses travel. Taken to the extreme, if it flexed enough then the clutch wouldn't release at all.

    I went looking for something in the aftermarket and found the pictured items from Oberon. Delivery took just under a week via the expensive shipping option. They're the simplest design available, basically zero bling factor and exactly what I want. No cutouts, no weight saving, no fancy graphics. I changed the ST2 plate over tonight, haven't ridden it yet, but clutch release does seem improved just turning it by hand.

    EDIT: took the bike for brief ride and yes clutch action is improved fairly significantly. Well worth doing if you're starting to have issues with disengagement and gearchanges going through with a clunk.
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  5. #140
    Join Date
    28th January 2015 - 16:17
    2000 Ducati ST2
    Lower Hutt

    Output shaft collar

    A while ago I'd posted about the output shaft (to front sprocket) having an issue with sprocket float and chewing the retaining washers up fairly regularly.

    It looks like the bike was run for a long time with the rear wheel poorly aligned to the chain. This would drag the front sprocket either inboard or outboard. I've sorted the alignment, but that still leaves me with an output shaft that will eat retaining washers pretty regularly. The (now) 45 degree angle of the spline ends will just cut its way straight into the washers. I had a look online for fixes - various people have tried various things - but it's not as straightforward a problem as I'd like. There's persistent rattling, it's a grindy environment that constantly sucks road dust in, and the sprocket itself is a loose fit to the spline and rattles. Any rigid fix will rapidly get un-rigid, and might even present a hazard if it could come loose at speed and then cause some kind of failure.

    In the end I've gone with a simple split collar, clamping on the output shaft. This was fairly straightforward to turn up in a lathe and then hacksaw for the split, drill press for the cap screw etc. It simply clamps on the OD of the splined shaft. I'd got as much thread engagement on the cap screw as possible and it's threadlocked. There's no attempt to match the spline and no need to, it doesn't transmit torque. It's simply a stop against the sprocket walking inboard.

    I've put a few thousand k's of riding on it - around town, back country etc. So far so good, no issues as yet.
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