GSX1100EF advice

[pete376403]

www.thegsresources.com is a fun place to waste a few hours.

[Dadpole]

The starter clutch can be an issue. If there is a 'clang' during starting the rollers etc may need attention. There are kits available and it is not a difficult job. If it self-destructs then it is not pretty.

That and the clutch basket rivets are the only real issues engine wise. That applied to most of the 1000/1100 air-cooled range.

Electrical issues are the reg/rec cooking itself (seems to apply to many Suzuki's of the era. The warning lights on the dash may show random things like a failed tail light etc. No cure except ignoring it or using a complicated method to bypass it. The battery had a fluid level warning for the OEM battery. The way to turn it off is to earth the wire that went to the battery.

Tire pressures have more of an effect on the 1135 than any other bike I have ridden. A change of a couple of PSI can change a good bike to one that will require new undies after a high-speed corner.

All the best with the new beastie. There is a lot of info available online. Search "Suziki EFE" in the UK and 'GS1150" in the USA

[Intruder VS]

Awesome info guys thanks for that, certainly going to make a change from working on Yamaha 2 strokes.

I will look up the links and do some more homework on the web during the week.

Another question, are any oem parts still available through Suzuki NZ?

For my RD and RZ’s I’ve only ever used oem for the likes of head gaskets, crank seals etc.

Also have a lot to learn as to what’s interchangeable between the 750/1000 and 1100 engines and what’s 1135 specific.

Plan at this stage will be to keep as original as possible, or maybe CAFE RACER!!..............................haha bet that put the shits up a few of you!!!!! No way that’s ever going to happen while in my care.

[T.W.R]

Just a couple of simple things worth noting.

The tappet cover bolt grommets all harden significantly over time and will leak like sieves unless replaced if/when you go in to do the tappets
The rear shock preload adjuster is all plastic drive cogs, so if it's frozen up don't force it just disassemble clean & rebuild otherwise the mounting spigot sheers off. The damping adjuster is a cable drive unit and easily seizes up over time so worth stripping cleaning & lubing.
Linkage bushes haven't got any proper sealing either so probably well past their best

[jellywrestler]

Another question, are any oem parts still available through Suzuki NZ?

.

i brought some gs850 airbox rubbers a few days ago, they arrived between xmas and new year, including the xmas break they took 12 days from order to in the shop, they were very very close to the costs i'd researched through alpha sports web site, and of course no freight or import taxes etc (and if the parts add up they add gst)and included the gst, and if there was an issue, it could be dealt to there and then, without having to return them overseas etc
parts cost nz retail $101. alpha sports $93, my dealer gave me a discount and they were a bit below the $93.

also i've found, alpha sports and others with flash web sites have stuff at current rates, occasionally suzuki nz have stuff that's been sitting on the shelf for a while, and it's at the old price often significantly cheaper too.
i have about six big fours from 79 to 84ish and simply use a parts website to identify the parts, check availablility and copy and paste them to an email to my dealer.
sometimes if the parts obsolete google the number and there maybe some somewhere, i brought a katana wiring loom from holland a few months ago for my mcintosh suzuki, there was another in romania but i couldn't talk their lingo

[Dadpole]

A correction for the fluid level warning for the OEM battery cure. The wire goes to the positive (+) terminal.

I found a lot of parts were common Suzuki items. They like to use one part across a range of models. * years ago I bought new rear suspension bushes and shafts from Suzuki NZ for the same cost and less hassle than USA.

The 1135 is a bit of an orphan engine wise. Different crank, pistons etc. Parts are available from the US. Have a look at http://gszone.biz/enginekits.html and start saving.

oldskoolsuzuki will give you a lot of ideas about mods and what will fit. Some of the bikes there will whet your appetite - and drain your bank account.

[jellywrestler]

Part# 12140-00A24 Desc RING SET PISTON -SU USD Price 50.99 rings aern't dear, as said this is alpha sports price usd

[BMWST?]

werent these the ones that had a reputation(not saying deserved) for bad handling due to the lil front wheel?

[T.W.R]

werent these the ones that had a reputation(not saying deserved) for bad handling due to the lil front wheel?

Nah you're thinking the GSX1100F with the adjustable screen & slammed with the stupid Katana label by the yanks..and it was just the 1st generation models, 2yrs into their production they lengthened the swingarm and cured a lot of the nervousness. Though in saying that the 88 model I had didn't suffer from any ill handling that I found personally and I used to push it along quite rapidly

[Dadpole]

The EFE got some flak in the press and was the victim of a three month sales ban in South Australia. It came down to the 16 inch front wheel being odd feeling and not liking some tyres. It is also fairly easy to lock the front tipping in under heavy braking. The upside is that it is easily controlled and causes no drama.

I -briefly - had the first of the power screen model. It was fluffing horrible and I was glad to see it gone.

[Grumph]

There was a bit of court action in OZ over the 1135's handling - as dadpole says, tyre choice was pretty critical at the time.

The GSX1100F was the first of the bigger GSXR1100 engines. More torque than the original 1052cc - but a crank that had resonant frequency problems.
Not a problem in bikes, but Speedway mini sprints broke cranks regularly as a result of running right in the middle of the cranks natural frequency range.

[Intruder VS]

Very interesting reading the comments, for a bike that’s not really a classic a lot of info is coming out of the woodwork.

I’ve read a bit about the 16” front and tyre issue, I wonder if things will improve with the newer tyre technology compared to what was available back then.

Also most of the reviews I’ve read all mention the vibration problem which seems to be at its worst at 100-120kmh, I’m guessing adjusting the gearing a little will help by moving the rev range at highway cruising speeds and on the gearing thing while at it may be a good time to convert to 530 chain?

[Grumph]

Very interesting reading the comments, for a bike that’s not really a classic a lot of info is coming out of the woodwork.

I’ve read a bit about the 16” front and tyre issue, I wonder if things will improve with the newer tyre technology compared to what was available back then.

Also most of the reviews I’ve read all mention the vibration problem which seems to be at its worst at 100-120kmh, I’m guessing adjusting the gearing a little will help by moving the rev range at highway cruising speeds and on the gearing thing while at it may be a good time to convert to 530 chain?

A lot of the 1135's raced here were converted to 530 straight away. Lighter and you had gearing options.

Kirby used to have a pic on the wall at Budget in ChCh, first corner at the GP the year it was held in Sydenham. You can see his gearshift mechanism hanging down as it's come loose. Finished 3rd or 4th on what was a pretty standard half faired 1135 - stuck in 2nd gear....

[T.W.R]

I’ve read a bit about the 16” front and tyre issue, I wonder if things will improve with the newer tyre technology compared to what was available back then.

Current generation BT45s would be way far in advance of the old Mag Mopus fitted as OEM to the 1135. Had BT45s on the 1100F and never ever had an issue with the front end just the rear when it got worn that it'd do interesting things but the 11 had 16" hoops both ends

[FJRider]

werent these the ones that had a reputation(not saying deserved) for bad handling due to the lil front wheel?

Over the years I've owned a few with the smaller front wheels (the GPZ 900 Ninja was one) ... and they had the inclination to follow all the ruts and indentations and wheel ruts in the tar seal if you let them. Once you were aware of it happening .. you took a better look at the road surfaces as you traveled (always a good thing to do whatever you ride).