GSX1100EF advice

[Intruder VS]

Well things are moving along with the EF slowly been hard to find time with doing a bit of home diy to keep the cook happy and busy with big engineering projects at work.

So frame came back from coating and came up a treat was a little concerned about pitting from the surface rust but came up great.
Had a play with the ES stauntions and with a little mod to the dampeners fitted in no problem and wouldn’t you know it but after I finished them a EF front end popped up locally complete with good stauntions and calipers etc so will rebuild them and if any issues with the modified ones will swap them over.
Rear suspension linkage bearings were buggered so cleaned up painted and fitted new bearings and now back together in frame.
Jumped the gun a little and cleaned up and painted the engine and fitted back in frame, since fitting I have dropped the sump to fix the strippped drain plug hole. Was worried about what I would find in the sump but was pretty clean although I did find a head of a screw in there and have a sneaking suspision it is from one of the 10 screws that sit behind the clutch so will investigate when I give the clutch a going over.
Also still need to check and adjust the valve clearance so better get onto that before I fit bits above the engine. I know should have done while it was out of the frame.

[Intruder VS]

Well been tinkering in the shed and have managed to get a few more bits rebuilt cleaned up painted and back on the frame.

Spent a few hours on the loom with the diagram soldering iron and heat shrink undoing mods others had made in the past then rewrapped with loom tape. Seems the many hours studying the drawings paid off as everything apairs to be working as it should even the lamp warning lights.

Brakes done fitted back on the bike and bleed.

So time to dig into the clutch, everything seems pretty good and there is evidence of someone being in there before. Did notice the clutch springs are red and not sure if they came from the factory that way or if someone has upgraded them but sure someone on here may be able to tell me.

Oh and the screw head I found in the sump did in fact come from behind the clutch as expected.
Look at the pic and play spot the missing screw head so now any one have any tips on removing the rest of the screw before I go trying to drill and ezy out the sucker bearing in mind it will or should have been loctited in.

[pete376403]

Now that the head has broken off there shouldn't be any tension on the threads. If the screw hasn't been loctited, you may be able to unscrew the remains with a small centre punch and hammer, tapping the edge of the screw in an anticlockwise direction.

the rest of the crew heads look in good condition, so maybe they have been untouched since it left the factory. If so, may well not be any loctite . What does the service manual say?

[Intruder VS]

Now that the head has broken off there shouldn't be any tension on the threads. If the screw hasn't been loctited, you may be able to unscrew the remains with a small centre punch and hammer, tapping the edge of the screw in an anticlockwise direction.

the rest of the crew heads look in good condition, so maybe they have been untouched since it left the factory. If so, may well not be any loctite . What does the service manual say?

Factory manual says use thread lock which as you say will be the only thing holding it as the head is missing.
My ezy out set is at work so may have a go at it tomorrow night, only fear is if the ezy our snaps

[Grumph]

If it's OE and untouched, shouldn't be any loctite there. If you're not going to split the cases, I'd take the plate off and see how much screw is available to grip and turn..

If you were splitting cases, the earlier motors have those holes going right through. Easy enough to put a small bit in a battery drill and spin it out.

If it won't turn, take the whole thing to a good welder. He'll tack a small bolt onto the visible bit of screw and it'll wind out easy peasy....

If I'm feeling particularly anal on race engines, I grind a small nick in the OD of the countersunk screws - and punch a piece of the steel plate into the vee.

Do not use loctite on those screws.....

[Dadpole]

If it were me I would not stress too much about getting out the screw stump. As long as it is stuck and will not come loose I would leave it until the cases are split. It is only a retaining collar and still has two screws holding it.

[pete376403]

If you're committed to drilling the screw out, get some left hand twist drills (run the drill motor in reverse, obviously). As they are drilling they may wind the screw out. You'd need to try a proper engineers supply house for LH drills.

[T.W.R]

If you're committed to drilling the screw out, get some left hand twist drills (run the drill motor in reverse, obviously). As they are drilling they may wind the screw out. You'd need to try a proper engineers supply house for LH drills.

This above, but works more effectively drilling a pilot hole (essentially coring the screw remnants) first. smear a bit of grease around the whole lot and dip both drill bits in grease too to catch & collect as much swarf as possible . Dot punch then drill with the likes of a 2.5mm then sometimes even stepping up to a 3.5 is enough to extract the screw shaft

[Katman]

If you're going to try using an ezy out don't waste your time with the tapered shaft type.

The parallel shaft type are by far the best.

http://www.uktools.com/25pc-screw-ex...t-p-11528.html

[Intruder VS]

Wow lots of advice and can see merits in them all.

Got home from work walked straight into the shed drilled an 3.5 hole gently tapped in a #4 ezy out turned it gently and the screw resisted a little then started to move

New screw now fitted and went with the recommendation of no loctite.

I’ve drilled and extracted many broken bolts over the years but still get a bit nervous with some like this one.

Cheers guys

[pete376403]

Wow lots of advice and can see merits in them all.

Got home from work walked straight into the shed drilled an 3.5 hole gently tapped in a #4 ezy out turned it gently and the screw resisted a little then started to move

New screw now fitted and went with the recommendation of no loctite.

I’ve drilled and extracted many broken bolts over the years but still get a bit nervous with some like this one.

Cheers guys

Go and buy a lotto ticket while your luck holds

[Intruder VS]

Go and buy a lotto ticket while your luck holds

Yeah not much luck with lotto but worth another try so done.

[Intruder VS]

Well she’s still moving along slowly, starting to look a bit better now almost ready for clear coat then that’s most of the cosmetic stuff sorted. Still a few mechanical bits to sort. Done the 530 chain conversion just waiting on chain.
Next project arrived half complete RD400 C with E engine plan at this stage is period correct street legal road racer but won’t start that one till the EF is pretty much finished.

[jellywrestler]

I’ve drilled and extracted many broken bolts over the years but still get a bit nervous with some like this one.

Cheers guys

i'm not surprised using a shit tool like that that literally expands the screw while working, as katman said, the parrallel shaft ones are so superior, in that area of the bike i would have given myself every chance possible to get it right, bike looks nice so far

[Honest Andy]

Do not use loctite on those screws.....

Why no loctite?