I've had to drill too many of them out in my lifetime. I won't use loctite on a 6mm thread in alloy at all now.
Those plates retained by the countersunk screws have to come off to split the cases. It's a major PITA when they're loctited and won't move.
If you want to secure them, as I've posted earlier, grind a notch in the OD of the screw and punch the steel plate into it.
Fair enough, good tip.
In the past I've always liked to use some kind of locker on small Al threads so I'm not tempted to give 'em an extra couple of pounds...
High miles, engine knock, rusty chrome, worn pegs...
Brakes as new
Ok another quick question or advice, ordering new front tire and currently has 110/90 16 manual says 120/80 NZ/AUS model with 18 rear or 110/90 over seas models which were fitted with 17 rear mine is NZ so running 18 rear with 130/90 so thinking 120/80 as per manual but as these bikes are known for shaking their heads a bit whats your thoughts on how the different sizes effect handling?
The taller the front section the better. But that will hinge on what is still available.
They were known to be sensitive to tyre condition too.
The best fronts in period were the Dunlop 591's - which had a very stiff carcase.
I found the 120/80 to be much better than the 110. The 120 reduces the fast 'tip-in' feeling.
The dreaded head shake is brought about by tyre wear, pressures, wheel alignment or dodgy bearings (head or swingarm).
The shake can also happen also by hitting a stone at low speed ( <50kph) if you are unlucky. It happened to me on a couple of occasions and certainly gave me a wake up. I found the solution was to always have a hand on the bars at low speed. The other side of the coin is that over 1**kph the bike is so stable that one finger is all that is needed on corners.
The best way to forget all your troubles is to wear tight underpants.
Thanks for the insight and have gone with the 120/80 which along with the 530 chain should be here in a day or 2 and oem starter clutch rollers, pins and springs not far behind, also reading through the GS forum I’m going to do the kill switch mod to hopfully keep the starter clutch happy for a long time.
Up dated pic time to.
Looking good there.
The best way to forget all your troubles is to wear tight underpants.
EFE Wobbles...the investigation conclusion
Well after reading that happy I replaced the bearings etc so hopfully the bike won’t try and kill me, I’ve been for a short shake down ride and so far so good and yep pleanty of toque on tap and no head shaking even when one handed while flicking my visor down.
Starter clutch bits arrived so now need to dig into that.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-86-SUZ...W/292532619669
looks a bargain as impossiblwe to get, even adding the freight to nz from anywhere in the world
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