Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 19

Thread: Plug chop

  1. #1
    Join Date
    5th January 2017 - 07:44
    Bike
    Yes
    Location
    City of Sails
    Posts
    96

    Plug chop

    OK so time for the plug chop. My bike runs good at all ranges except WOT now. I would like to find out if lean or rich. Question is how can I do a plug chop if it doesn’t hold consistent power at WOT, or do I not need to? All the instructions on the web talk about holding it at WOT but this feels dangerous given it’s running condition

    Cheers

  2. #2
    Join Date
    6th May 2012 - 10:41
    Bike
    invisibike
    Location
    pulling a sick mono
    Posts
    6,057
    Blog Entries
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by globe View Post
    OK so time for the plug chop. My bike runs good at all ranges except WOT now. I would like to find out if lean or rich. Question is how can I do a plug chop if it doesn’t hold consistent power at WOT, or do I not need to? All the instructions on the web talk about holding it at WOT but this feels dangerous given it’s running condition

    Cheers
    the rear doesn't *have* to be on the ground.
    reading won't be hunnits as it's not under load. but should be close.

    does it bog or cut out? smoke? backfire? did you put a bigger main in?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    5th January 2017 - 07:44
    Bike
    Yes
    Location
    City of Sails
    Posts
    96
    Quote Originally Posted by Akzle View Post
    the rear doesn't *have* to be on the ground.
    reading won't be hunnits as it's not under load. but should be close.

    does it bog or cut out? smoke? backfire? did you put a bigger main in?
    I moved the needle up so the clip was on the bottom groove. What happens is I go to WOT then it loses power for a couple of seconds or so then shoots off as though it is kicking in. Or I back off the throttle and it kicks in again. Hope that makes sense?

    Maybe flat spot is a better description?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    6th May 2012 - 10:41
    Bike
    invisibike
    Location
    pulling a sick mono
    Posts
    6,057
    Blog Entries
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by globe View Post
    I moved the needle up so the clip was on the bottom groove. What happens is I go to WOT then it loses power for a couple of seconds or so then shoots off as though it is kicking in. Or I back off the throttle and it kicks in again. Hope that makes sense?
    so it's hesitation/ stumble, (likely fuel starving) rather than it wont go WOT?

    pretty sure i said in the last thread, you'll probly be looking at going up on jet size. float one too.

    check again your tank vent, petcock. make sure fuel not getting held up there.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    17th April 2006 - 05:39
    Bike
    Various things
    Location
    Wellington
    Posts
    14,429
    Quote Originally Posted by globe View Post
    I moved the needle up so the clip was on the bottom groove. What happens is I go to WOT then it loses power for a couple of seconds or so then shoots off as though it is kicking in. Or I back off the throttle and it kicks in again. Hope that makes sense?

    Maybe flat spot is a better description?
    What bike are we talking about here Bro?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    5th January 2017 - 07:44
    Bike
    Yes
    Location
    City of Sails
    Posts
    96
    Quote Originally Posted by Crasherfromwayback View Post
    What bike are we talking about here Bro?
    GN250 mate

  7. #7
    Join Date
    5th January 2017 - 07:44
    Bike
    Yes
    Location
    City of Sails
    Posts
    96
    Haven’t done the chop yet but this is the plug with only about 20-30kms under load.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	EF3E6AB0-F85E-4B6C-BEB4-B90FE7A930EF.jpeg 
Views:	24 
Size:	501.8 KB 
ID:	335644  

  8. #8
    Join Date
    17th April 2006 - 05:39
    Bike
    Various things
    Location
    Wellington
    Posts
    14,429
    Quote Originally Posted by globe View Post
    GN250 mate
    Quote Originally Posted by globe View Post
    Haven’t done the chop yet but this is the plug with only about 20-30kms under load.
    Yeah but a plug chop is only accurate if it's been pulled from the engine right away after a full noise run, as soon as the engine runs even for a couple of seconds on anything else it's void.

    Sounds a lil rich to me. Have you got an airbox in place?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    19th October 2005 - 20:32
    Bike
    M109R, GS1200ss, RMX450Z, ZX-12R
    Location
    Near a river
    Posts
    4,308
    Quote Originally Posted by Crasherfromwayback View Post
    Yeah but a plug chop is only accurate if it's been pulled from the engine right away after a full noise run, as soon as the engine runs even for a couple of seconds on anything else it's void.

    Sounds a lil rich to me. Have you got an airbox in place?
    Exactly and it has to be a brand new plug to give a accurate indication of what's going on.
    get the bike up to operating temp, fit new plug & do the chop, remove plug immediately to get a true reading

  10. #10
    Join Date
    17th April 2006 - 05:39
    Bike
    Various things
    Location
    Wellington
    Posts
    14,429
    Quote Originally Posted by T.W.R View Post
    Exactly and it has to be a brand new plug to give a accurate indication of what's going on.
    Yep. When I had my RS250, at $280.00 a plug from HRC, it wasn't something I wanted to do too often. Pity you had to though.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    19th October 2005 - 20:32
    Bike
    M109R, GS1200ss, RMX450Z, ZX-12R
    Location
    Near a river
    Posts
    4,308
    Quote Originally Posted by Crasherfromwayback View Post
    Yep. When I had my RS250, at $280.00 a plug from HRC, it wasn't something I wanted to do too often. Pity you had to though.
    Ouch! that's worse than a plug for an RE5

    back to the OP though,

    All this is well & good, but importantly how many kms has the bike? when were the valve clearances done last? etc
    Doing a plug chop is really only truly any help as a accurate indication on freshly dialed-in (tuned) engine; you'll be chasing your tail for ever if other items are adrift elsewhere.
    Higher kms the more worn the cam chain is and if so the whole timing advances slightly and GNs haven't got the gruntiest of ignition systems stock anyhow. Plug heat range? is the stock plug etc

    Realistically to accurately get it as close to spec as possible you have to go back to base settings, carb, valves etc

    A quick look at that plug in the pic & the symptoms you say it's showing ....a simple change in grade of plug may be the only thing needed and go to a slightly hotter grade plug ie: if the in it is a stock 8 go one temp range hotter to a 7 and vise versa if it was showing signs of blistering you'd go to a colder plug up to a 9.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    5th January 2017 - 07:44
    Bike
    Yes
    Location
    City of Sails
    Posts
    96
    Quote Originally Posted by T.W.R View Post
    Ouch! that's worse than a plug for an RE5

    back to the OP though,

    All this is well & good, but importantly how many kms has the bike? when were the valve clearances done last? etc
    Doing a plug chop is really only truly any help as a accurate indication on freshly dialed-in (tuned) engine; you'll be chasing your tail for ever if other items are adrift elsewhere.
    Higher kms the more worn the cam chain is and if so the whole timing advances slightly and GNs haven't got the gruntiest of ignition systems stock anyhow. Plug heat range? is the stock plug etc

    Realistically to accurately get it as close to spec as possible you have to go back to base settings, carb, valves etc

    A quick look at that plug in the pic & the symptoms you say it's showing ....a simple change in grade of plug may be the only thing needed and go to a slightly hotter grade plug ie: if the in it is a stock 8 go one temp range hotter to a 7 and vise versa if it was showing signs of blistering you'd go to a colder plug up to a 9.
    Cheers going to check timings tomorrow. Clearances about 4 weeks ago. Popped a new plug in and took it for a spin. That’s it after about 10min riding about. No chop etc
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	223EDE0C-FAA2-433C-B4AA-CBFA2A924FAE.jpg 
Views:	31 
Size:	392.3 KB 
ID:	335646  

  13. #13
    Join Date
    6th May 2012 - 10:41
    Bike
    invisibike
    Location
    pulling a sick mono
    Posts
    6,057
    Blog Entries
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by globe View Post
    Cheers going to check timings tomorrow. Clearances about 4 weeks ago. Popped a new plug in and took it for a spin. That’s it after about 10min riding about. No chop etc
    i mean. obviously.

    http://www.bmwclassicmotorcycles.com...ug-reading.jpg

  14. #14
    Join Date
    3rd February 2004 - 08:11
    Bike
    1982 Suzuki GS1100GK, 2008 KLR650
    Location
    Wallaceville, Upper hutt
    Posts
    5,071
    Blog Entries
    4
    Now that lead has been removed from fuel does the plug still show the range of colour? ie from scary bone white through to sooty black with the optimum being a nice light chocolate tan? Exhaust pipes now look black no matter what the F/A ratio.
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  15. #15
    Join Date
    19th October 2005 - 20:32
    Bike
    M109R, GS1200ss, RMX450Z, ZX-12R
    Location
    Near a river
    Posts
    4,308
    Quote Originally Posted by globe View Post
    Cheers going to check timings tomorrow. Clearances about 4 weeks ago. Popped a new plug in and took it for a spin. That’s it after about 10min riding about. No chop etc

    Let me guess you've got a cheapy pop-gun aftermarket muffler & pod filter on this thing huh?

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •