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Thread: what oil on cam reassembly?.

  1. #1
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    what oil on cam reassembly?.

    doing the valve clearances on the klx and the manual says to put molybdenium disulphide oil on the shafts on reassembly and the same oil on the bolts before torqueing them down.
    I have some grease with moly disulphide which I think is right but what do people use on there shafts and bolts as I cant find anything like moly oil.

    Can I just use the oil in the engine or is that not enough lube on start up.

    Cheers .
    winding up stucky since ages ago

  2. #2
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    Should be able to find the stuff at a shop that sells speed equipment for V8s. When oiling the threads pror to assembly, also have some under the bolt head when it bears on the cap otherwise friction there could result in incorrect torque. And use a good quality torque wrench. If the KLX is anything like the KLR they're only little bolts.

    http://www.kcams.co.nz/Menu/Camshaft-Lubrication.php
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    Should be able to find the stuff at a shop that sells speed equipment for V8s. When oiling the threads pror to assembly, also have some under the bolt head when it bears on the cap otherwise friction there could result in incorrect torque. And use a good quality torque wrench. If the KLX is anything like the KLR they're only little bolts.

    http://www.kcams.co.nz/Menu/Camshaft-Lubrication.php
    how about this stuff?.
    http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Prod...7ml/SPO3956875
    winding up stucky since ages ago

  4. #4
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    There are moly based engine assembly lubricants readily available from places like Supercheap.
    I always use them on cams. For bolts on assembly, I use engine oil.

    In my experience, anything under 30 ft/lb should be lubed - threads and under the head.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    There are moly based engine assembly lubricants readily available from places like Supercheap.
    I always use them on cams. For bolts on assembly, I use engine oil.

    In my experience, anything under 30 ft/lb should be lubed - threads and under the head.
    This stuff ok?.http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Prod...7ml/SPO3956875


    bolts are 9.8nm torque so I just dip the threads and then coat the tops with the 10w40.
    winding up stucky since ages ago

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    I'd say you would be safe using that. "Contains ZINC, MOLY and Other High Pressure Additives"
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwi cowboy View Post
    I'd never buy anything branded Lucas.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SaferRides View Post
    I'd never buy anything branded Lucas.
    There's two Lucas. One is English prince of darkness one, the other is the American lubricant one.
    Have a re think on that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sidecar bob View Post
    There's two Lucas. One is English prince of darkness one, the other is the American lubricant one.
    Have a re think on that.

    ...I like George Lucas shit...especially with an ice-cream at half time...chocolate bomb, even better...

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    Quote Originally Posted by ellipsis View Post
    ...I like George Lucas shit...especially with an ice-cream at half time...chocolate bomb, even better...
    AAAAAAAnd the tread turns to the trolls see ya Saturday maybe.
    winding up stucky since ages ago

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwi cowboy View Post
    AAAAAAAnd the tread turns to the trolls see ya Saturday maybe.
    ...you buyin' the ice creams?...

  12. #12
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    success

    well got some assembly lube.
    Had a lot of numbers instead of names like moly but says to use on cams and engine internals on assembly so got stuck in.
    All went like a dream- locked the cam chain tensioner back so I didn't have to take it out ( requires a lot of shit to be removed to get tensioner out).
    Pulled buckets and replaced shims with the right ones. put it all back together worrying all the time that I thought there should have been an o ring around the sparkplug hole in the cam cap but couldn't find one.
    Before starting up it got the better of me even though nothing is said in the manual I went inside and looked up a parts fich and sure enough theres a fucking o ring there which I ended up finding on the rear of the crank case.
    Pulled apart and put the little fucker in the right place and all back together.
    Wound it over about 5 seconds then pulled choke.
    Started and ran good no leaks so I think I will say its a success lol
    Thanks to those gave advise and no ya don't need to take half the bike apart to get the cam chain tensioner out to do the job.
    winding up stucky since ages ago

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by sidecar bob View Post
    There's two Lucas. One is English prince of darkness one, the other is the American lubricant one.
    Have a re think on that.
    Yeah I know the US Lucas is a different company. It's just I'm old enough to remember British cars with Lucas electrics.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SaferRides View Post
    Yeah I know the US Lucas is a different company. It's just I'm old enough to remember British cars with Lucas electrics.
    There are those of us here even older who remember British bikes with Lucas electrics too....But Lucas oil does seem to be good shit.

  15. #15
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    Mostly Jap bikes when I started riding. But I do remember someone at school who had a BSA single - Gold Star? Watching him start that was often an entertaining few minutes.

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