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Thread: Gs750

  1. #46
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    1st June 2014 - 21:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    If the idea was to make a bellmouths search around Kmart for egg cups.
    http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article...ouths&A=110771

    Thats a good idea, who would of thought.. haha

  2. #47
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    13th June 2010 - 17:47
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    Quote Originally Posted by layton View Post
    3 attempts so far and the 3rd is half decent!

    first was heating the tube with a torch and trying to form the shape in a lathe but the tube just deformed the steel - fail

    second was a die in a press, the die didnt flare the tube enough nor did it make a lip then i tried to hammer it into shape - fail

    third turned out acceptable took 12 tons to form this shape, i think if i had a bigger press i could get it to roll over but what i have is going to work.

    WP_20180805_18_03_34_Pro
    I can't see your pics but I've done dies for tube forming. For a rolled end on plain tube, I did one some years back in mild steel. It's all in the taper angle and the radius for the roll. Then it has to be lubed when you use it. The one I did was for 2 inch 16 gauge. AFAIK, Autobend still use it.
    For a full taper bellmouth, I don't use steel. I've made them in alloy. Steel, I wouldn't have thought that much pressure should be needed. What gauge tube are you using ?

  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    I can't see your pics but I've done dies for tube forming. For a rolled end on plain tube, I did one some years back in mild steel. It's all in the taper angle and the radius for the roll. Then it has to be lubed when you use it. The one I did was for 2 inch 16 gauge. AFAIK, Autobend still use it.
    For a full taper bellmouth, I don't use steel. I've made them in alloy. Steel, I wouldn't have thought that much pressure should be needed. What gauge tube are you using ?
    the first die i used had no flange to curl the metal back over, the second die has a taperd curve to help it fold over. i am using 2mm exhaust tube. my first attempt i used no oil the others i used oil and had much better results, i also filed the weld seam off on the inside because attempt one it damaged the die. the 12 tons was one of those cheap hydraulic presses so it probably wasnt a real 12 tons. the tube is 40mm diameter the major diameter of the die is 60mm

  4. #49
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    2mm wall is unneccessary. 1.6 or 1.2 wall is plenty.

  5. #50
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    made all 4 velocity stacks, tacked everything together test fitted and all looks good.

    the reason i used the 2mm exhaust tube was because i had it on hand, i agree 2mm is excessive. i dont have much spare time to get go searching for parts or materials so i try make and use what i have.

    WP_20180805_21_19_18_Pro

    WP_20180806_21_11_44_Pro

    WP_20180806_21_24_00_Pro

  6. #51
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    Seeing as how you will be blowing through the carbs, what is you plan for fuel pump, sealing the carb vents and boost sensitive fuel pressure regulator?
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    Seeing as how you will be blowing through the carbs, what is you plan for fuel pump, sealing the carb vents and boost sensitive fuel pressure regulator?
    yeah, i think ill run a Bosch fuel pump. i have had a look at fuel pressure regulators but i dont really know what i should buy any ideas?

  8. #53
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    I made one from scratch but it was a long time ago before any of the things you can now buy off the shelf were available. It was basically a spring loaded diaphragm type regulator valve with boost pressure ported to the spring side , so the spring set basic fuel pressure (about 3 PSi) then as boost came on it assisted the spring so fuel pressure was always about 3-4 psi higher than boost. This was using a Weber DCOE carb (on a Mini) The float bowl was vented to the airbox so the float chamber was always at what ever pressure (or non pressure) that was in the airbox, and the fuel was always about 3 -4 psi above that. worked great until the thin brass weber floats collapsed under pressure. Plastic Del'Orto floats fixed that. The other modification to the carb was to use dual row sealed bearings for the butterfly shaft. Not directly relevant to your setup but these are things (fuel pressure, float bowl venting, air leaks from carb spindles, etc) you will need to consider.

    fuel injection might actually be easier although a lot more expensive

    the valve I made looked a bit like this (not quite as elegant) but worked exactly the same way as the bypass regulator .https://www.jegs.com/tech-articles/h...tors-work.html
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  9. #54
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    There's a guy ex Kelford Cams who trades as Philspeed. Has a website - which I admit I haven't looked at in a while.
    He was carrying the exact sort of fuel pressure regulator you need - boost sensitive.

  10. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    There's a guy ex Kelford Cams who trades as Philspeed. Has a website - which I admit I haven't looked at in a while.
    He was carrying the exact sort of fuel pressure regulator you need - boost sensitive.
    awesome, thanks for that.

    i will do some reading before i buy anything i think. so many things to choose from.

    i have been chewing over ideas on what i should do next, as in how i should feed the plenum.. should i try cram a small intercooler into the mix, fab some crazy pipe work or just feed the plenum from the end and be done with it. the problem i have is the turbo is abit close to feed into the back, i could go though the bottom but i just dont want to, if i go in the side i can use the original waste gate actuator mounting points but i will have to face the outlet of the turbo backwards and probably come on the outside of the frame to hook into the plenum.

    i could buy a small intercooler from a starlet and chop it down to fit.. they arent that expensive.

    can anybody see a problem with having the plenum fed from both ends? something that looks kinda like a C into each end, i guess the problem would be pressure would go back into the turbo right?

  11. #56
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    Could you not just rotate the compressor housing and have it going straight into the back of the plenum?
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  12. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    Could you not just rotate the compressor housing and have it going straight into the back of the plenum?
    no, unfortunately not.. i read conflicting things about where the cold pipe should enter the plenum im leaning towards just plumbing into the side and call it done.

  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by layton View Post
    no, unfortunately not.. i read conflicting things about where the cold pipe should enter the plenum im leaning towards just plumbing into the side and call it done.
    If it's just air you're blowing in, it really doesn't matter where it comes in - the whole shooting match is gonna get bloody hot anyway.
    The trick comes when you're blowing mixture in, to get even distribution.

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    There's a guy ex Kelford Cams who trades as Philspeed. Has a website - which I admit I haven't looked at in a while.
    He was carrying the exact sort of fuel pressure regulator you need - boost sensitive.
    A rising rate fuel reg
    This is the cheapest you will find
    http://www.turbogemini.com/Blow%20Through%20FPR.htm
    I am not sure about blowing through those carbs tough a CV carb is preferable?
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  15. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    If it's just air you're blowing in, it really doesn't matter where it comes in - the whole shooting match is gonna get bloody hot anyway.
    The trick comes when you're blowing mixture in, to get even distribution.
    ahh, thanks for clearing that up! that makes sence and i have actually read that multiple times but it only just sunk in ... like just then! easy to over think things.
    thanks for being patient with me fellas! its great to have people to ask. ill go get some tube tomorrow if i get a chance and get stuck in. i am looking forward to attaching the risers to the gsxr triples.

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