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Thread: Gs750

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    A rising rate fuel reg
    This is the cheapest you will find
    http://www.turbogemini.com/Blow%20Through%20FPR.htm
    I am not sure about blowing through those carbs tough a CV carb is preferable?
    https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car...4363396d734038

    looks like a similar fuel pressure reg

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by layton View Post
    https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car...4363396d734038

    looks like a similar fuel pressure reg
    similar yes but not for carbs.

    http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/7247.htm



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    A rising rate fuel reg
    This is the cheapest you will find
    http://www.turbogemini.com/Blow%20Through%20FPR.htm
    I am not sure about blowing through those carbs tough a CV carb is preferable?
    I agree, with slide type carbs you are going to have to have boost pressure above the slides as well as below (otherwise the slides are going to go straight to the top of their travel and stay there - it will be exciting initially but difficult to control ) With CVs you have the butterfly to regulate things - still need the boost above the diaphragm though. If you had room a pair of 40 DCOEs would be good.
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    I agree, with slide type carbs you are going to have to have boost pressure above the slides as well as below (otherwise the slides are going to go straight to the top of their travel and stay there - it will be exciting initially but difficult to control ) With CVs you have the butterfly to regulate things - still need the boost above the diaphragm though. If you had room a pair of 40 DCOEs would be good.
    Ages ago i posted a link to a thread where a guy had done a play by play on how to do the pitot tube and the mods for CV carbs
    I know what thread it will be in.
    https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/s...post1130795806

    Links dead
    http://www.streetfighters.com.au/for...rbs-for-Turbo&
    http://www.turbo-bike.com/Pressurize...etor%20R1.html
    I think the slide carbs would work if they were in the plenum chamber.



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    Ages ago i posted a link to a thread where a guy had done a play by play on how to do the pitot tube and the mods for CV carbs
    I know what thread it will be in.
    https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/s...post1130795806

    Links dead
    http://www.streetfighters.com.au/for...rbs-for-Turbo&
    http://www.turbo-bike.com/Pressurize...etor%20R1.html
    I think the slide carbs would work if they were in the plenum chamber.
    i was just reading these exact same posts, so because i have 4 individual vents i need more pilot tubes? i have read on a few websites that slide carbs are OK for boost?

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by layton View Post
    i was just reading these exact same posts, so because i have 4 individual vents i need more pilot tubes? i have read on a few websites that slide carbs are OK for boost?
    Everything i have seen suggests its better to use CV as they are sealed internally i think you can do a draw through with a slide easy though.
    any i have seen with slide carbs are enclosed in a box
    A pitot tube is the bleed that takes the pressure from the intake and sends the signal to the carb/reg
    here is a better page
    http://www.spartgsxrspecials.com/tur...and%20dont.htm

    okay this one looks like its non cv explains the pitot tube as well
    http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=59262.0
    page two he covers how to seal them



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  7. #67
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    The engineer who got me into turbos for petrol vehicles (I had previously worked on Cat tractors, but of course diesels) had been with Broadspeed UK when they were doing the Rolls Royce turbo project. Their scheme was to put the entire carb into a sealed box (plenum) which took care of all the problems of pressure in different parts of the carb. Looks ugly though and the constant opening / closing (unsealing / resealing) of the box lid when sorting the jetting was a pain. Thats where the Weber was so good, the float chamber opening was at the front of the carb where the plenum bolted on and the butterfly shaft was ran on sealed bearings. There were no other leakage points to contend with, and all the jetting was under the top cover. Only problem was the brass floats (but this was 30 years ago and it wasn't a brand new carb so they may be plastic now)
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    The engineer who got me into turbos for petrol vehicles (I had previously worked on Cat tractors, but of course diesels) had been with Broadspeed UK when they were doing the Rolls Royce turbo project. Their scheme was to put the entire carb into a sealed box (plenum) which took care of all the problems of pressure in different parts of the carb. Looks ugly though and the constant opening / closing (unsealing / resealing) of the box lid when sorting the jetting was a pain. Thats where the Weber was so good, the float chamber opening was at the front of the carb where the plenum bolted on and the butterfly shaft was ran on sealed bearings. There were no other leakage points to contend with, and all the jetting was under the top cover. Only problem was the brass floats (but this was 30 years ago and it wasn't a brand new carb so they may be plastic now)
    i remember when you convert the SU carbs for forced induction you put the shaft seals in the opposite way.
    https://www.mgexp.com/article/how-to...ugh-an-su.html



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  9. #69
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    so i have a 45mm charge pipe that means a 10mm OD pilot tube 8mm ID connected to carbs 1-2, 3-4 blank off the middle vent? also hook the 4 bowl vents into the plenum?

    just making sure im on the right path?

  10. #70
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    few bits done, i have been collecting parts.. brought a spares motor and got the engine cases i needed, welded the plenum brought a fuel pump and regulator the one that was suggested (good dude to deal with) got several barbed fittings from chiiiinnaaaaaa much cheaper then here. hmmm.... i am still waiting on some brass T fittings, does anybody know where to get clear fuel line?

    so tonight i mounted the regulator and hooked up the vacuum lines but i cant decide where to mount the fuel pump, i was going to put it above the cam cover but it just seems like it would get damn hot? anyone have ideas?

    WP_20180922_20_01_44_Pro

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    also brought a GSX 400 motor, aparently done 800KM from new. I have great plans a gokart for the kids ofcoarse? well thats what ill tell the other half.

    WP_20180922_20_03_13_Pro

  11. #71
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    couple of updates made a battery box, mounted the fuel pump under plenum added some heat shields and a space to put some electricals made a battery box, decided i should make a double skinned box with some dimples to dissipate heat because its closer to the turbo then i wanted. I had a go at making a seat pan, for a first attempt at fiber glassing i think it came out quite well.. it fits nice, but i do need to add some extra layers its not stiff enough that was 4 layers of woven cloth i didn't realise when i brought the materials that chop strand was only for polyester resin and doesnt work so well with epoxy. i may glass some steel into the pan for some nice solid mounting points. i was going to add some chop strand in between the layers of woven cloth to bulk it up but the amount of resin it takes to stick the stuff down i may as well go get more woven cloth, so after a few more layers and maybe some steel or aluminium ill trim to final size. steady progress anyhow. i try not to look at the big picture and focus on one task at a time otherwise it becomes daunting.

    WP-20181023-21-13-47-Pro

    WP-20181025-20-15-55-Pro

    WP-20181026-21-51-23-Pro

    WP-20181027-08-45-33-Pro

    anybody know a good place to get the seat upholstered? i also have no clue what this will cost, has anybody had one done before?
    this isnt something i will do myself i have never seen a DIY successful (something that looks decent) seat done. most just look like ass.

    loads of little bits i have forgotten, like mounts for the plenum, swing arm mods( didnt like the spindly look of the original) made some stainless engine mount bolts that fit better removed lots of little tabs added a few.. just chip away, a little every night. dont ya hate it when you only want ~1 meter of steel, but you can only find 4 meters plus!

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by layton View Post
    couple of updates made a battery box, mounted the fuel pump under plenum added some heat shields and a space to put some electricals made a battery box, decided i should make a double skinned box with some dimples to dissipate heat because its closer to the turbo then i wanted. I had a go at making a seat pan, for a first attempt at fiber glassing i think it came out quite well.. it fits nice, but i do need to add some extra layers its not stiff enough that was 4 layers of woven cloth i didn't realise when i brought the materials that chop strand was only for polyester resin and doesnt work so well with epoxy. i may glass some steel into the pan for some nice solid mounting points. i was going to add some chop strand in between the layers of woven cloth to bulk it up but the amount of resin it takes to stick the stuff down i may as well go get more woven cloth, so after a few more layers and maybe some steel or aluminium ill trim to final size. steady progress anyhow. i try not to look at the big picture and focus on one task at a time otherwise it becomes daunting.









    anybody know a good place to get the seat upholstered? i also have no clue what this will cost, has anybody had one done before?
    this isnt something i will do myself i have never seen a DIY successful (something that looks decent) seat done. most just look like ass.

    loads of little bits i have forgotten, like mounts for the plenum, swing arm mods( didnt like the spindly look of the original) made some stainless engine mount bolts that fit better removed lots of little tabs added a few.. just chip away, a little every night. dont ya hate it when you only want ~1 meter of steel, but you can only find 4 meters plus!
    Go to a place that repairs saddlery our place has just closed.
    As i see you are in nelson ask a lineman who makes there pouches etc.

  13. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    Go to a place that repairs saddlery our place has just closed.
    As i see you are in nelson ask a lineman who makes there pouches etc.
    Upholsterers who do boat work are another good bet. Should be a couple in Nelson.
    Reason is a tool - remember where you left it..... The late, great, John Clarke

  14. #74
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    very little progress.. Christmas has sucked up all available funds plus house is being reno'd ! But i am looking foward to continuing ASAP, i have a question.. so i need to extend the front ride height by about 50MM i have a few choices get some Honda 954 drop triples or have some fork cap extenders made, would said extenders be "safe"?

    im guessing as long as the cap extenders have properly cut threads and are a safe length they will be ok? i could even add a piece of aluminium tube that is a snug fit over the whole leg between the triples.

    i have found some online for $400 but that seems ridiculous for what they are, and i have a machinist friend who can make em.
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  15. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by layton View Post
    very little progress.. Christmas has sucked up all available funds plus house is being reno'd ! But i am looking foward to continuing ASAP, but i have a question.. so i need to extend my front ride height by about 50MM i have a a few choices get some Honda 954 drop triples or have some fork cap extenders made, would said extenders be "safe"?

    im guessing as long as the cap extenders have properly cut threads and are a safe length they will be ok? i could even add a piece of aluminium tube that is a snug fit over the whole leg between the triples.

    i have found some online for $400 but that seems ridiculous for what they are, and i have a machinist friend who can make em.
    Get longer forks or make dropped yokes.

    I am not sure why you would need to raise the front.
    Ps the fuel pump should be mounted lower than the lowest part of the tank to self prime



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

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