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Thread: A Revival Mission...

  1. #31
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    9th January 2005 - 22:12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    It does now, yes. 320mm GSXR750 discs with Suzuki Impulse calipers. You've probably never heard of the Impulse in the UK. It was a watercooled 400/4 for the home market which got sold here in big numbers. The calipers are a smaller 4 pot but take the same pads as big GSXR's
    The quick fix for the mild steel OE disc was an Impulse disc. Identical size and bolt pattern - but made from top quality material.
    Hey speaking of brake discs.....

    My CB750 has the stock setup - lever, fixed pad, one floating pad driven by the master cylinder. The brakes aren't great. My options are:

    full recon of master and caliper, new brake lines, new pads. Get the brake disc drilled (lighter, maybe better water and heat dissipation? also for looks)

    EBC disc ($200US plus shipping) - lighter, and better material with full recon master and caliper. (I am leaning towards this a bit)

    https://carpyscaferacers.com/shop/sh...pro-lite-sohc/


    Find a GL1000 front end then recondition that.

    Anyway - if I wanted the disc drilled, who would I take it to locally? No way am I having a crack at it on my pillar drill. I think I would spend more in drill bits and such than it would cost someone competent to do it.
    I thought elections were decided by angry posts on social media. - F5 Dave

  2. #32
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    13th June 2010 - 17:47
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    Quote Originally Posted by HenryDorsetCase View Post
    Hey speaking of brake discs.....

    Anyway - if I wanted the disc drilled, who would I take it to locally? No way am I having a crack at it on my pillar drill. I think I would spend more in drill bits and such than it would cost someone competent to do it.
    The period answer was to buy another fork leg and twin the discs. The hub I believe has threaded holes on the unused side.
    I've done them on a bench drill. It's all in the drill guide and how accurate you can get it. If you don't have a dividing head...
    The problem with thinning discs like that which are rivetted to a carrier is that they have to come off...be surface ground (Mace Engineering) then be reattatched to the carrier. Re-rivetting is f'n impossible these days so it's capscrews and cone nuts (high temp locknuts)
    I've done Z1 and GS Suzuki discs and it's hard work.

    I'd take it to Wallace at Marshland Engineering - I know he's got a dividing head...

  3. #33
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    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by HenryDorsetCase View Post
    Hey speaking of brake discs.....

    My CB750 has the stock setup - lever, fixed pad, one floating pad driven by the master cylinder. The brakes aren't great. My options are:

    full recon of master and caliper, new brake lines, new pads. Get the brake disc drilled (lighter, maybe better water and heat dissipation? also for looks)

    EBC disc ($200US plus shipping) - lighter, and better material with full recon master and caliper. (I am leaning towards this a bit)

    https://carpyscaferacers.com/shop/sh...pro-lite-sohc/


    Find a GL1000 front end then recondition that.

    Anyway - if I wanted the disc drilled, who would I take it to locally? No way am I having a crack at it on my pillar drill. I think I would spend more in drill bits and such than it would cost someone competent to do it.
    Yamaha and Brembo discs are the same bolt pattern as an early Honda.
    Available in plenty of sizes and offsets and have much lighter carriers much lighter discs and come pre drilled.

    240
    https://www.metalgear.com.au/mgear-b...ar-p-7403.html

    267mm
    https://www.metalgear.com.au/mgear-b...ft-p-5093.html

    282
    https://www.metalgear.com.au/mgear-b...e-p-10983.html

    298
    https://www.metalgear.com.au/mgear-b...g-p-11716.html

    320mm
    https://www.metalgear.com.au/mgear-b...e-p-11028.html
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  4. #34
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    13th June 2010 - 17:47
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    Well at least some progress. The head's done. Cleaned, valves lapped, new springs and stem seals. Ready to go back on.

    Note the bronze spacers for the cam followers - I was into friction reduction in the 80's...
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  5. #35
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    8th February 2018 - 20:43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    Well at least some progress. The head's done. Cleaned, valves lapped, new springs and stem seals. Ready to go back on.

    Note the bronze spacers for the cam followers - I was into friction reduction in the 80's...
    Looking good, Greg. I remember riding this bike once or twice back in the day, and like Dave, always fancied maybe turning it into a trick streeter...

  6. #36
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    Well, the bottom end is back together and all the gears select. I've still to make a new waterpump gasket and collect the barrel from the reconditioners.
    Have new gudgeon circlips - same as Z1 which I carry here.

    When I pulled the motor out I noticed that the R/H coil was missing. I'd forgotten that I'd pulled it off and given it to Kiwimacchi back in the 90's when I grafted an ignition onto his Macchi. It's had an exciting life since, going all over NZ and being quite successful too, LOL.
    Another is coming from the ubiquitous Pete Sales....I did find the mounting bracket in the box I'd tossed it at the time luckily.

    From my point of view the interesting bit is pretty well done. From here it's pull the chassis down and strip and clean everything. Unseize and kit brakes. The forks haven't been apart since it was built. One change of fork oil and it was good enough we never touched them. Shock linkages....etc etc. The boring bits.

    At least it uses current wheel widths so secondhand slicks shouldn't be a problem.

  7. #37
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    28th November 2013 - 21:58
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    When you say 10mm cam, is that cam or valve lift?

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by guyhockley View Post
    When you say 10mm cam, is that cam or valve lift?
    Valve lift. But it's actually bigger than that. I'll have to find an old Megacycle catalogue with it listed as it's no longer available.

    We had it copied locally by Kelford cams after we broke a sprocket flange. One of the most disheartening weeks of my life. We travelled to Manfield for a National round - a days travel counting the ferry crossing. Two laps of practise and Bang. A valve clearance adjuster had broken the locknut and the threaded portion had come out and found it's way under the camchain and over the sprocket. Not repairable away from home base.

    I have some reason to believe that this cam profile is the one Megacycle developed for the CB450 with conventional valve springs. The rocker ratio is the same and it makes sense that they'd offer what was a known profile when the EX500 appeared. What they didn't know was the effect of the heavier rockers and the higher rev potential of the EX. Stopped offering it for the EX because too many had spring problems.

    Edit - the McCutcheon EX500 which so nearly won the F3 title in the first year, had the next cam down in the Megacycle catalogue. I never heard what springs they used - but probably stock ones. Noel McCutcheon - ex IOM NZ rep back in the late 50's - continued developing it after his son had gone to Aussie. Eventually he put it in an FZR400 rolling chassis as he felt the stock frame wasn't up to it.
    I'd known Noel since I was a kid and we talked about it...I gave him a ride on my bike at Ruapuna to show what the stock chassis was like done properly.
    He came in looking very thoughtful - only remarking that mine was a hell of a lot quicker than theirs....

  9. #39
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    Pulling bits off the chassis. Enjoyable - not. This is what we called at the time the batplate. RHS rearset/brake setup. Mark trashed the LHS at least once but luckily never went down on the right. I did nice work then, LOL. Polished then clear anodised.
    Anyway, I'm going to have to kit the M/C. I have no idea what it's from - picked from a box at a wreckers. It has 7V2 cast in it.
    If anyone recognises it or the numbers I'd be obliged.
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  10. #40
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    This is the basic roller. Rear subframe cut off and a lightweight one welded on. Bolt in frame member on the lower right has an extra crossmember added under the steering head. Ride height adjuster added to rear frame crossmember. Various fairing mounts added.
    Originally we fitted an alloy arm from a GPZ750. Drops in. But the wheelbase is then about 2in longer than stock. Mark wanted it to turn better so the OE arm went back in. Never needed to brace it - even on slicks.

    Coincidentally, I've just been invited to the 65th of the guy who did the alloy tank and seat for me. He's threatened to retire and concentrate on alloy work for years now and he's finally doing it. One of the best I've ever struck. Once he's looking for work I'll put it up here.
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  11. #41
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    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    Pulling bits off the chassis. Enjoyable - not. This is what we called at the time the batplate. RHS rearset/brake setup. Mark trashed the LHS at least once but luckily never went down on the right. I did nice work then, LOL. Polished then clear anodised.
    Anyway, I'm going to have to kit the M/C. I have no idea what it's from - picked from a box at a wreckers. It has 7V2 cast in it.
    If anyone recognises it or the numbers I'd be obliged.
    looks like a rd250d/e/ ish i think i have one here i can check the numbers

    probably be cheaper to buy a new Chinese yamaha one off tm
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  12. #42
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    Yeah, looks like RD250 E/F. I'll see what Don wants for a kit before I look overseas. Thanks very hard....

  13. #43
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    While I can get a kit for the front M/C off the shelf, it looks like there's no kit for the rear listed. When I pull the M/C's apart I'll take the bits as samples and try and match locally.

    Pulled the forks and started cleaning bits....I thought I had rust on one stanchion and wasn't looking forward to sorting pitting. Turns out it simply dissolved - it wasn't rust, it was something left by the rats....The top triple I'd thought was stained and corroded, also came up mint after a wash.
    I'll fit new fork seals while they're apart. I've also got to do a bit of drilling for the now required lockwire on brake fasteners.
    Today's job when it warms up, is pull the back wheel, invert the frame and pull the suspension and shock.
    Then out in the sun with a bucket of detergent and a scrubbing brush. Oh joy....

  14. #44
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    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    While I can get a kit for the front M/C off the shelf, it looks like there's no kit for the rear listed. When I pull the M/C's apart I'll take the bits as samples and try and match locally.

    Pulled the forks and started cleaning bits....I thought I had rust on one stanchion and wasn't looking forward to sorting pitting. Turns out it simply dissolved - it wasn't rust, it was something left by the rats....The top triple I'd thought was stained and corroded, also came up mint after a wash.
    I'll fit new fork seals while they're apart. I've also got to do a bit of drilling for the now required lockwire on brake fasteners.
    Today's job when it warms up, is pull the back wheel, invert the frame and pull the suspension and shock.
    Then out in the sun with a bucket of detergent and a scrubbing brush. Oh joy....
    it looks like its 5/8 i would cross check to see if its same as something like XS650-400 etc
    Yamaha no longer make kits but they are available overseas.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  15. #45
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    Right - progress...The frame and arm got pressure washed to remove the "rat cum" (copyright big Rob) Frame has since been given a touch up aka Dulux overhaul. The arm has had a 16G bracket added under the chain line for mounting a shark fin. Then the paint retouched.

    Pulled the spring off the Honda shock we'd used. It's been incontinent while stored so a rebuild or replace was called for. Pulled the OE spring off one of the SV shocks and started to look at refitting the spring I wanted. The anodised spring seats and spacers I'd made up to fit the ex Formula Ford spring worked on the SV shock. All I needed to do was machine a stepped spacer to achieve the same fitted length as it had been. Pic is OE SV and the FF spring on another SV shock. Why a Formula Ford spring ? Mid 80's there was SFA available in alternative springs locally. A mate of Kirby's had a stash of springs and made them available when we built the GSXR F1 bike. Pretty sure this spring is the pair to the one in the F1 bike.

    Then it was go through the rear linkages. The SV shock uses 10mm bolts where the Honda one used 12mm (hollow of course...) I made up a new bush for the shock end of the link in stainless. It runs in impregnated nylon so didn't have to be hard. For the upper end which has a clevis on the ride height adjuster, I made a pair of stepped stainless bushes to run the 10mm bolt in 12mm holes. Everything got cleaned and greased. Still in quite good condition as you'd expect from a low mileage example, LOL.

    Forks can go together once I have seals. Steering head bearings cleaned up good.
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