2006 R6 Oil and filter change

[Quickrik]

Just completed an oil and filter change on the R6 lastnight as per the manual.

So 2.6l oil including filling new filter. Start it up lets it idle for a couple of mins, no warning light, stop check levels/leaks.

It sound okay at idle, but anything above that there is now a loud horrible noise coming from something in the motor.

What the hell has gone wrong? Any ideas?

[AllanB]

2.6 l of oil with filter? That's not a lot of oil.

I've not checked but I suspect you've run it low on oil.

When the bike is level does the oil appear in the sight glass?

[FJRider]

The approved method of an R6 oil change ...

https://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/...nge-06-r6.html

[AllanB]

The approved method of an R6 oil change ...

https://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/...nge-06-r6.html

Oil volume appears correct then.

What oil did you use?

[Quickrik]

Penrite 4ST MC 10W40

Oil sits about 80% full on the dipstick

[FJRider]

Penrite 4ST MC 10W40

Oil sits about 80% full on the dipstick

Did you top it up to the mark on the dipstick ... ???

[SaferRides]

Penrite 4ST MC 10W40

Oil sits about 80% full on the dipstick

That's good oil - I use it in my 99 R1.

What oil filter did you fit?

[FJRider]

Oil volume appears correct then.

What oil did you use?

Most owners manuals give the amount of new oil to put in after draining the old stuff out. To prevent over-filling ... this amount is usually LESS than the required amount. The manual usually states to then fill (if required) to the fill mark on the dip-stick/sight glass. Those that stop reading too early may regret it.

With some ... common sense is lacking.

[FJRider]

What the hell has gone wrong? Any ideas?

Timing chain (if it has one) need adjusting .. ??

[Quickrik]

Timing chain (if it has one) need adjusting .. ??

Engine runs so I assume it's still in there. But this sounds like the most sensible suggestion so far.
I don't know a lot about 4-strokes, but the R6 has got some funky (thing I don't understand) tensioner that uses a spring and oil to work.

On the oil quantity/level stuff.

Here is some crude ASCII art of my to illustrate what my dip stick oil level is, using the method as described by Yamaha. 'X' being oily bit, ' ' being the bit that has no oil on it.

|
|
-- Max Oil

X
X
X
X
-- Min Oil
X

So regardless of how much residual oil plus whatever new I added the oil level is well within spec. Yes I could probably fit another couple of hundred mils in there.

[Katman]

I don't know a lot about 4-strokes, but the R6 has got some funky (thing I don't understand) tensioner that uses a spring and oil to work.

Your cam chain tensioner is spring loaded but has nothing to with the oil for it to function as it should.

[FJRider]

Engine runs so I assume it's still in there. But this sounds like the most sensible suggestion so far.
I don't know a lot about 4-strokes, but the R6 has got some funky (thing I don't understand) tensioner that uses a spring and oil to work.

Remember ... it's got (at worst) a 12 year old tensioner and chain. Both cannot be expected to last forever. Springs get tired and chains wear out and get noisy. Usually noticed when after you do things like change the oil ... and are listening for unusual noises ...

It's not an unusual issue but should be looked at ... soon'ish ... before there is a bigger issue.

[manxkiwi]

If it has a hydraulically pressurised CCT, like the 675 daytona I have. Then it can rattle on start up (After not running for some time) or after an oil change. But this only lasts a couple of seconds, normal service should then resume. If you're not getting pressure at the CCT then it will give a 'rattley' sound and there must be a problem.
Hope this helps?

[SaferRides]

I don't know much about the R6 tensioners, but the R1 up to 2003 has a spring tensioner that can break. That usually doesn't end well.

I fitted an APE manual tensioner to my '99 model. Not only is the cam chain much quieter, but the engine runs better.

[Quickrik]

* SOLVED*

Thanks for all your help. I got to the bottom it. After checking the oil, the filter and the cam chain tensioner. I'm embarrassed to admit that the noise was not coming from the engine at all, but it was the exhaust extractor pipe to vent exhaust fume was rattling on the garage floor