Page 24 of 24 FirstFirst ... 14222324
Results 346 to 350 of 350

Thread: Speeduino 2T EFI Project

  1. #346
    Join Date
    4th September 2017 - 10:39
    Bike
    Daelim besbi 2008
    Location
    España
    Posts
    265
    Quote Originally Posted by Dexxa View Post
    The pwm control of the fuel pump allow you to don't have the mechanical regulator because the fuel pump is controlled by a duty cycle from arduino or something else.
    There are a lot of impulses between 0 and 12 volt to the pump. The more their frequency is high the more the pump will go faster.
    So if the pressure gauge indicates 4 bar and in your imposed table you want 5 bar at that rpm, the duty cycle of the pump will be increased to have 5 bar on the fuel line.
    This in a closed loop control.

    Did you understand?
    I had doubts if I could be wrong when affirming that you have worked on the RSW500, but after analyzing other mechanical injection systems (in the way you indicated to work the pump I thought it was mechanical and not electronic).
    Analyze the injection system of MRD, which uses a mechanical pump (pinion) but the injection of this system is continuous injection like that of K-jetronic (it uses an electronic pump "with constant pressure" and a pressure regulator to supply the desired flow) and not sequential injection as you describe.
    Another piece of information that makes me think that I am not mistaken is that you indicate the use of a pressure gauge to control the injection pressure and that I have only seen in the RSW500, it is part E99061 in the throttle body.

  2. #347
    Join Date
    8th December 2021 - 08:55
    Bike
    1976 Yamaha RD400C
    Location
    CanDA
    Posts
    2

    Introducing myself and project

    Hello.. I just sat and read all 24 pages and it is a fascinating read!

    I am in Ottawa, Canada and am about to set out on my own two-stroke efi project.

    I have a 1976 RD400C completely stock.... just the way I like them. They arent horse power machines in stock trim but they are fantastic for cruising around town. Id never mess with intake or exhausts or porting because I love the torque right in the lower and mid rpms. Yamaha says 40hp stock but I suspect it's really 35 or so.

    At this point I have purchased a Microsquirt because it comes in a small sealed unit with water tight amp seal for the wiring harness. I plan on not only controlling fuel but also ign curve. I'll need more power for fuel pump so I have upgraded to a VAPE ignition system. It produces 150 watts and now the ignition is CDI with a VR sensor. There is no ECU in this setup... I have it set at a static 20 degrees (2.3mm BTDC on this bike) The microsquirt will be able to take direct control using the VR as a signal in and also will also directly control the ignitor circuit in the CDI/coil. Microsquirt can log two EGT channels so I have also purchased those. I will also have a CHT sensor under one of the plugs to be used for start up enrichment and also logging purposes. I have a heated Wideband O2 sensor that I will use as well but as we know... the readings may not be an accurate picture of what's happening in the combustion chamber. An intake air temp sensor as well.

    First thing in my plan is build a hydraulic gear pump dyno with a needle valve to control rpm. I have everything needed and will soon start welding a frame to hold it all together. The plan is make it so it all fits between the swing arm rails and the stock chain will drive the gear pump. The pump will be able to rotate a little... there will be a 12inch arm attached to the pump and it will press a load sensor that will also feed into the microsquirt and be logged. I will trick it to think it is something else but it outputs a 0-5v signal so thats what matters. I have two stepper motors... one will manage the needle valve and the other, the throttle cable. I have written but not tested code for the Arduino to go to a specific throttle % and hold it there while the one controlling the needle valve will use engine rpm to open/close the valve in small increments to keep the engine at desired RPM.

    The plan.... set arduino to hold certain cell value on fuel table and matching cell in spark advance table then I will monitor EGT and O2 and torque produced as I add/remove fuel to achieve good power but safe power then I will add/remove spark advance as it plots the torque curve so I can see where it makes the most power then remove a couple degrees to leave it on the safe side of things. I am thinking about installing a knock sensor to prevent me from destroying the motor during ignition tuning but its an air cooled motor covered in fins and there is no where to really put it... plus I dont want to weld anything to the engine. However... it is my understanding that high octane pump fuel will deter knock and allow me to advance spark enough where I will see torque production drop off a little without actually knocking. Then I can chose the part of the curve before the peak and set the timing there. Lots to learn and loads will go wrong but im hoping to see just how strong a stock setup can be. Also hoping to tune it to be a smooth ride with no surging or bucking etc. You can never tune this out of an RD400... i have mine pretty damn good but i have a really rich low rpm do achieve it. smokes like a chimney at idle.

    I am planning on Alpha-N as I ran a vacuum signal test run the bike with the carbs and it looked like a jagged saw tooth. Completely unusable. I used the oil injection nipples on the carbs to get the vacuum so.... maybe when the R6 throttle bodies are on the bike that have actual vacuum ports it will perform better. Testing will tell. I also have ITB control method which is method that uses Alpha-N and switches over to VE assuming the signal is more consistent in higher rpms.

    I love what you are doing here... just wanted to introduce myself and share what I have planned. I'll pop in from time to time and share anything I have learned
    -John

  3. #348
    Join Date
    4th September 2017 - 10:39
    Bike
    Daelim besbi 2008
    Location
    España
    Posts
    265
    Quote Originally Posted by RD400C View Post
    Hello.. I just sat and read all 24 pages and it is a fascinating read!

    I am in Ottawa, Canada and am about to set out on my own two-stroke efi project.

    I have a 1976 RD400C completely stock.... just the way I like them. They arent horse power machines in stock trim but they are fantastic for cruising around town. Id never mess with intake or exhausts or porting because I love the torque right in the lower and mid rpms. Yamaha says 40hp stock but I suspect it's really 35 or so.

    At this point I have purchased a Microsquirt because it comes in a small sealed unit with water tight amp seal for the wiring harness. I plan on not only controlling fuel but also ign curve. I'll need more power for fuel pump so I have upgraded to a VAPE ignition system. It produces 150 watts and now the ignition is CDI with a VR sensor. There is no ECU in this setup... I have it set at a static 20 degrees (2.3mm BTDC on this bike) The microsquirt will be able to take direct control using the VR as a signal in and also will also directly control the ignitor circuit in the CDI/coil. Microsquirt can log two EGT channels so I have also purchased those. I will also have a CHT sensor under one of the plugs to be used for start up enrichment and also logging purposes. I have a heated Wideband O2 sensor that I will use as well but as we know... the readings may not be an accurate picture of what's happening in the combustion chamber. An intake air temp sensor as well.

    First thing in my plan is build a hydraulic gear pump dyno with a needle valve to control rpm. I have everything needed and will soon start welding a frame to hold it all together. The plan is make it so it all fits between the swing arm rails and the stock chain will drive the gear pump. The pump will be able to rotate a little... there will be a 12inch arm attached to the pump and it will press a load sensor that will also feed into the microsquirt and be logged. I will trick it to think it is something else but it outputs a 0-5v signal so thats what matters. I have two stepper motors... one will manage the needle valve and the other, the throttle cable. I have written but not tested code for the Arduino to go to a specific throttle % and hold it there while the one controlling the needle valve will use engine rpm to open/close the valve in small increments to keep the engine at desired RPM.

    The plan.... set arduino to hold certain cell value on fuel table and matching cell in spark advance table then I will monitor EGT and O2 and torque produced as I add/remove fuel to achieve good power but safe power then I will add/remove spark advance as it plots the torque curve so I can see where it makes the most power then remove a couple degrees to leave it on the safe side of things. I am thinking about installing a knock sensor to prevent me from destroying the motor during ignition tuning but its an air cooled motor covered in fins and there is no where to really put it... plus I dont want to weld anything to the engine. However... it is my understanding that high octane pump fuel will deter knock and allow me to advance spark enough where I will see torque production drop off a little without actually knocking. Then I can chose the part of the curve before the peak and set the timing there. Lots to learn and loads will go wrong but im hoping to see just how strong a stock setup can be. Also hoping to tune it to be a smooth ride with no surging or bucking etc. You can never tune this out of an RD400... i have mine pretty damn good but i have a really rich low rpm do achieve it. smokes like a chimney at idle.

    I am planning on Alpha-N as I ran a vacuum signal test run the bike with the carbs and it looked like a jagged saw tooth. Completely unusable. I used the oil injection nipples on the carbs to get the vacuum so.... maybe when the R6 throttle bodies are on the bike that have actual vacuum ports it will perform better. Testing will tell. I also have ITB control method which is method that uses Alpha-N and switches over to VE assuming the signal is more consistent in higher rpms.

    I love what you are doing here... just wanted to introduce myself and share what I have planned. I'll pop in from time to time and share anything I have learned
    -John
    Hi John. Welcome, it is a good approach, I wish you success

  4. #349
    Join Date
    28th August 2015 - 00:01
    Bike
    1975 Hodaka Wombat
    Location
    Eugene, Oregon, USA
    Posts
    259
    Welcome. My only criticism is of your test method. An inertial dyno is not only easier to build; it is much easier to run. We typically made up to 50 individual test runs in an afternoon. Each run generates a full power curve. This lets you test a lot of changes in a short time. We ran one test series on a water brake dyno. It took all afternoon and generated only one partial power curve. See http://performancetrends.com/tdkmotorsports/index.html for more information. We used the Performance Trends dyno data logger, but there are others.

    Lohring Miller

  5. #350
    Join Date
    8th December 2021 - 08:55
    Bike
    1976 Yamaha RD400C
    Location
    CanDA
    Posts
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by lohring View Post
    Welcome. My only criticism is of your test method. An inertial dyno is not only easier to build; it is much easier to run. We typically made up to 50 individual test runs in an afternoon. Each run generates a full power curve. This lets you test a lot of changes in a short time. We ran one test series on a water brake dyno. It took all afternoon and generated only one partial power curve. See http://performancetrends.com/tdkmotorsports/index.html for more information. We used the Performance Trends dyno data logger, but there are others.

    Lohring Miller
    Thanks for your feedback... these forums are invaluable for people... I have access to so many people's experience and feedback.

    I looked into building a DIY home inertial dyno but gathering the parts it needs and building it seemed out of my scope. The gear pump dyno is nice and compact and should fit in the swing arm and hook right up to the chain. I think the biggest benefit, for me, of this type of dyno is the ability to plot a torque curve for each cell while the computer holds a steady rpm. Im hoping this will allow me to optimize each and every cell of the fuel and spark tables. I'm not certain but I dont think an inertia dyno will allow me to have that sort of accuracy for a specific throttle/rpm setting. I am terrified of destroying my motor with too much advance or too little fuel... im hoping this method will give me the accuracy to avoid that.

    I was thinking if I wanted an rpm sweep torque curve I could set the needle valve to mimic what the bike would feel on the hwy and then do a 2000 to 7500 run and plot the torque and get something meaningful. Im not really concerned with accurate numbers... just the ability to see dips in the curve.

    Thats the plan... fingers crossed!

    I'm also going the be recording everything I do and posting it on youtube so people can watch and offer advice and ideas to me. Once I get things started I'll come here and post the link for anyone that's interested.

    Thanks for the welcome
    -john

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •