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Thread: Testing rectifier on a Street Triple R 2011

  1. #1
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    Testing rectifier on a Street Triple R 2011

    Hi there, I've been having problems keeping my battery charged on my Triple R 2011 and hoped to get some insight from someone who knows more than I do.

    I have bought a new battery but the problem remained. I'm really not that good with electrics, but I did a diode test (following some youtube videos) and with the positive probe on the negative connectioni was getting a reading in the 500's on all pins in the connector, but with the negative probe on the positive connection i was getting a reading in the 130's on all pins (note my diode tester shows readings differently, e.g. as 138 not as 0.138). Does this imply the rectifier is the problem? Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BikingBrit View Post
    Hi there, I've been having problems keeping my battery charged on my Triple R 2011 and hoped to get some insight from someone who knows more than I do.

    I have bought a new battery but the problem remained. I'm really not that good with electrics, but I did a diode test (following some youtube videos) and with the positive probe on the negative connectioni was getting a reading in the 500's on all pins in the connector, but with the negative probe on the positive connection i was getting a reading in the 130's on all pins (note my diode tester shows readings differently, e.g. as 138 not as 0.138). Does this imply the rectifier is the problem? Thanks.
    Can't help you with the testing but are you aware that Street Triples around that time were subject to a world wide recall and had their rectifiers replaced free of charge? Have you had the bike from new? If you bought it second hand, it might be worth getting an authorised dealer to check whether it's been done. I had a 2009 Triple which had a free replacement. You can see what the new rectifier looks like here:
    http://geoffjames.blogspot.com/2012/...apid-ride.html

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackbird View Post
    Can't help you with the testing but are you aware that Street Triples around that time were subject to a world wide recall and had their rectifiers replaced free of charge? Have you had the bike from new? If you bought it second hand, it might be worth getting an authorised dealer to check whether it's been done. I had a 2009 Triple which had a free replacement. You can see what the new rectifier looks like here:
    http://geoffjames.blogspot.com/2012/...apid-ride.html
    Bought it second hand, I highly doubt I'd get one free of charge if I took it into a Triumph dealer. Either way, it looks identical to the one that's in the picture - so perhaps it has been done already?

  4. #4
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    Check the voltage on the battery terminals. It should stay at 14.something as you increase the revs. If it drops as the revs go up, then the rectifier is stuffed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SaferRides View Post
    Check the voltage on the battery terminals. It should stay at 14.something as you increase the revs. If it drops as the revs go up, then the rectifier is stuffed.
    I've checked this and the voltage goes up with the revs, but by the end of the ride the battery voltage still drops - eventually draining the battery enough to where the bike won't start (checked before and after a ride). Could this still be the rectifier causing the issue? It can't be the battery as this was happening with my old battery and now my new one too.

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    Nunquam Non Paratus

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    Quote Originally Posted by BikingBrit View Post
    Bought it second hand, I highly doubt I'd get one free of charge if I took it into a Triumph dealer. Either way, it looks identical to the one that's in the picture - so perhaps it has been done already?
    The original rectifiers were positioned down the axis of the bike and the replacements were transverse to get better cooling. That's probably the best indicator whether it's been done or not.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BikingBrit View Post
    I've checked this and the voltage goes up with the revs, but by the end of the ride the battery voltage still drops - eventually draining the battery enough to where the bike won't start (checked before and after a ride). Could this still be the rectifier causing the issue? It can't be the battery as this was happening with my old battery and now my new one too.
    That does sound like the rectifier, I had the same thing with the R1 a few years ago. But a failed rectifier can also take out the stator depending on the bike. That's easy to check - details are in the link that owl posted. He has used a lot of words to describe what is a simple check though!

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    with the bike running, test the voltage at the battery, if it is going over 13.8, but not higher than 14.5, then your charging system is probably working correctly
    if you leave the bike sitting overnight does the voltage drop ? , does the voltage drop with the key on (more than say.1-.5 volt)over a small period e.g 1 hr, if it does in either case you probably have a short circuit, inspect all wiring that you can, to see if any have been rubbed on frame or crushed, if you can't find it , take it to a auto electician, they should be able to locate it

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    You can unplug the stator and measure the AC from each wire go ground. That will tell you if the stator is ok and they are a little weak. Also that plug melts in fault conditions. I've crimped mine.


    To take the tank off some thin pliers with ends bent in like a pincher will help depress the quick release connector which can be a swine to get off. Add a little grease next time it's easy. Someone to hold the tank is best.
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  11. #11
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    Thanks for the replies guys. I forgot to mention that when I checked the plugs going to the rectifier they had some kind of grease in the connectors, implying that someone had problems with the rectifier before? I'm guessing this grease helps with connectivity?

    I also did another test on the battery while running - I got 13.07 volts on the battery before starting the bike, while running it idles at 12.45v, and with giving it gas it wouldn't go up very high, at 6k RPM it got to 12.93v but at that point the bike gets really loud and I didn't really want to push the rpm up more. I did this for about 30s, and after turning the bike off the battery voltage was at 12.88 (so lost a little bit after only a few seconds). Does this sound more like a rectifier problem? I have yet to check the stator.

    Cheers,

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    It could really be either. Grease is normal.
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    Dielectric grease - "silicon greases are electrically insulating and are often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of sealing and protecting the connector. In this context they are often referred to as dielectric grease". (Wikipedia)

    From the voltage readings you are getting the battery is not being charged by the alternator and the voltage is going down as the revs rise because of the additional load from the ignition .

    With the alternator plug disconnected meter each lead to ground with the meter on AC. Voltage should rise with revs. The service manual should detail the spec, for example my Suzuki should have about 70VAC at 6000 RPM. If all three phases have about the same output the alternator is probably ok and you should be looking at the R/R.

    Could also be a stuffed battery. (edit, but you got a new battery so not that)
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    Dielectric grease - "silicon greases are electrically insulating and are often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of sealing and protecting the connector. In this context they are often referred to as dielectric grease". (Wikipedia)

    From the voltage readings you are getting the battery is not being charged by the alternator and the voltage is going down as the revs rise because of the additional load from the ignition .

    With the alternator plug disconnected meter each lead to ground with the meter on AC. Voltage should rise with revs. The service manual should detail the spec, for example my Suzuki should have about 70VAC at 6000 RPM. If all three phases have about the same output the alternator is probably ok and you should be looking at the R/R.

    Could also be a stuffed battery. (edit, but you got a new battery so not that)
    Thanks for the info guys, will test the stator tomorrow. I wiped a lot of the grease off the connectors when I checked them before, should I go buy some and re-apply, or is it not really necessary? Cheers

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikingBrit View Post
    Thanks for the info guys, will test the stator tomorrow. I wiped a lot of the grease off the connectors when I checked them before, should I go buy some and re-apply, or is it not really necessary? Cheers
    As already said, dielectric grease is an insulator. It will do nothing to improve the connections. Very good stuff for spark plug boots to seal them and make the boot easier to remove.

    Deoxit is good for connectors. Jaycar have it, but you'll have to clean the grease off first. I've also heard Good Things about the Wurth battery terminal stuff.

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